This may have already been covered, but I thought I'd post my experience up in the hopes of saving someone from cracking a tranny housing or having to remove their transmission again. Here are a few tips and whatnot I'd like to pass along:

I purchased an obx LSD quite a while back, before anyone realized the issues of removing the passenger side axle from one. I installed it and drove for quite a bit, pleased with the unit. Last week I discovered a torn inner cv boot and decided to replace the axle. After pulling the axle apart at the cv joint, prying, hammering cussing and contemplating scraping the whole car, I had a moment of inspiration. I pulled the drivers side axle and intermediate shaft out and located a punch/screwdriver that was long enough to fit through the tranny and differential to the passenger cv axle. With 4-5 hits from a ball peen hammer it came right out. I have read on other threads that some people have cracked their tranny housing trying to pry the cv axle out....DO NOT TRY THIS. It may take 20 more minutes to remove the intermediate shaft, but it is well worth it.

Sidenote on torn CV boot replacement- After some research here are some prices to compare-

One CV boot replacement kit is about $16
A remanufactured passengers side axle from Autozone with a lifetime warranty is only $65 after core.
-Granted it isn't an "upgraded" stage X axle, but for those of us without deep pockets I think its a hell of a deal(I'll give updates on how the remanufactured axle holds up, but I think it'll be fine.)

- I was originally concerned with the menacing axle nut the sits in the middle of the brake rotor, but with the right tools found it to be no match. You'll need PB Blaster for the rust, a 36mm socket(cheapest one available at any auto parts store), and a Big F-ing impact air gun. Luckily my friend had a nice unit by craftsman that is able to go up to approx 800 lb ft. I don't think a standard 250-300 lb ft impact air gun will be up to the task.

-One more tip for those of you attempting to separate ball joints and tie rod ends: Most people recommend using what I call a "pickle fork" to pry or wedge the ball joint apart, but I'm not a big fan of this method if you want to reuse the ball joint and or tie rod. I found at a local auto parts store an awesome tool called a tie rod end puller for about $14. It basically looks like a simplified wheel/pulley puller, but its just the right size for this job. When installing poly bushings this tool saved me a lot of headache. It seriously just pops the ball joints right out with ZERO damage to the boots.

Anyhow, this post is getting waaay too long, so I'll shut-up now.

Hope this knowledge helps someone.....

 

my factory manual says to pry the axle out with a screwdriver, and it works everytime for me. maybe its different for you, because you have lsd and its freaking OBX....or w/e

 

Yes- issue is with the OBX LSD. Passenger side input isn't beveled correctly causing the axle to be a pain in the axx to remove by prying like you would do normally.

 

Thats what happens when you copy products and dont use quality fabrication processes with the knock offs... good work around tho should help the poor souls that actually trusted OBX with their car.

 

im one of those "poor souls" and im pretty happy with mine...wierd

 

Sorry I wasn't able to help you out. Glad you got the axel out without too much damage though.