i really didnt know where to put this but i figured you guys have the most hands on experience with the inside of engines considering thats what it takes to go all motor

Anyway, I'm gonna be picking up an f22 longblock from a junkyard to teardown and rebuild with an h22 head. I dont want to waste money on tools that arent going to help me.

So if you would, please give me advice on which tools I should look into buying that would give me a jump start to building an engine.

thanks


Tips from others:

Dial Bore Gauge
Micrometer
Feeler Gauge set
Piston Ring Compressor
Torque Wrench


Modified by 98vtec at 1:04 AM 10/18/2006


Modified by 98vtec at 1:05 AM 10/18/2006


Modified by 98vtec at 1:06 AM 10/18/2006

 

x's 2.

ones I know of:
-piston ring compressor (scissior type)
-feeler gauge
-micromiter
-valve spring compressor. (Ive been told importbuilders.com has a slammin tool for this, they sell it for $50 or something)
-torque wrench

of course doesnt include your basic tools...sockets and such...

 

yea i have the basic tools

thanks for the help. I know a digital micrometer is going to be one of my first purchases.

Is there any kinda of brand that I should keep to due to accuracy?

 

Major tools SNAP-ON. basic tools craftsman unless you have the cash.

 

Ehh..I had a snap-on torque wrench go bonkers on me.

Ive never had a Craftsman **** to bed on me.

lets not turn this into a tool debate.

 

yes please.

 

Dial Bore gauge.

Know it.

Use it.

Love it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes please. </TD></TR></TABLE> damn i was JUST about to make a thread like this lol. Well i found out my community college can probably give me a 50% discount on tools soooo. i too am interested. Hopefully this thread can become very productive so we can stick it in the faq's for future refrences.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...QrdZ1


is that the "scissor" type ring compressor you are referring to?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dial Bore gauge.

Know it.

Use it.

Love it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

any suggest brand steve? that wont break the bank

 

yes, and blue-point are good tools.

 

snap-on valve spring compressor
snap-on valve lash tool
parts clearner
good tq wrench

 

as mentiond above a dial bore gauge, feeler gauges, micrometer, valve spring compressor, torque wrench, piston ring compressor, basic sockets and wrenches.

also:
24" precision straight edge
Dial indicator w/stand
Rod bolt stretch gauge (if applies)
Hondabond
tap and die set (cleaning threads, etc)
valve adjustment tool

 

Most of the Snap-On stuff is overrated and overpriced. I use a variety of Starrett and Mitutoyo micrometers and dial bore gauges. You'll need mic's that cover the range of 1" to 4", in one inch increments, for most motors. You'll need mic's and dial bore gauges with precision to the one ten-thousandth of an inch. I own two dial bore gauge sets (1.4" to 2.5" and 2" to 6"); that's the minimum. If you want to measure cam bore ID's, you'll need a smaller one. If you need to measure valve guide ID, then you'll need a ball mic.

I've also got a cheapy dial caliper and a set of 0" to 3" mic's from Summit Racing that get general use.

I've also got a mic stand (or you can use a bench clamp), connecting rod vise (you'll need two bench clamps if you don't have a mic stand), ARP rod stretch gauge, Torco cam and engine assembly lube, piston ring pliers, bench clamp valve spring tester, Tavia valve check springs, Matco Tools 3/8" drive torque wrench, 2ft 1/2"drive breaker bar and 1/2" deep 12pt socket or 14mm deep, Tavia deck bridge, 1" dial indicator, 2" dial indicator, 11" degree wheel, gram scale, piston ring filer, indicator stand with magnetic base, Snap-On dial indicator kit (good for checking crank thrust clearance as long as you're not using a 5-main cap), 1/2" and 13mm closed-end offset long wrench (for rod fasteners).....I could keep going for a while.

A metric tap and die set is helpful too.

If you're building GM or the newer Honda motors (e.g.: K20Z1), you'll need a torque angle meter as well as a torque wrench. It's a much better way of loading the main fasteners than estimating with just a torque reading.

http://www.use-enco.com
http://www.goodson.com
http://www.powerhouseproducts.com
http://www.summitracing.com

 

this might sound totally elementary to some but, make sure you have every metric size in 6-point and 12-point.

buy a torque wrench from a company who will calibrate it for you. doesnt matter if its snap on or whoever, jsut as long as it gets lifetime calibration

the valvelash tools can be bought at schlay.

 

Most of the measuring tools you need can be found at the link below. These guys have great pricing and products. They also have free shipping specials from time to time.

http://www.use-enco.com

As far as getting a quality product I would try and stick with Mitutoyo or Starret.

I have this caliper and it is great!
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/IN...LMK32

This is the Dial Bore Gage I am going to buy soon
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/IN...LMK32

I also have a 0" to 4" Mitutoyo Micrometer Set, but i dont see it here anymore.

John

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...sting

what about this ring compressor? good thing to have both hands free if you are installing the pistons alone?

what about piston ring filer? engine stand?

 

- cylinder hone
- timing gun
- assembly lube (torco MPZ)
- plastigauge
- air compressor

There's my .02

 

If you're using OEM Honda rings, you won't need a piston ring filer. The ring end gaps are determined by the bore sizing. They usually end up a little loose if you're at or slightly above the piston-to-bore clearance.

Scotch-brite and lacquer thinner or BPC are good to have around to scrub off Hondabond.

I don't like those band-type ring compressors because they sometimes move the rings around when you're tightening down the band. The machined piston installation tools are the easiest to use for me.

You also need a set of nylon engine cleaning brushes, and this:
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/...27115

 

you're gonna need a lot of ****, it never ends. also 12 pt american sockets/box wrenches for ARP stuff, its all american.

dont try to measure mains, just plastigage. the bore gages doesnt matter as much as the micrometer resolution and accuracy, since youll be transfering the bore gage info to the mic to get a measurement. for instance if you wanna check ptwc you would mic a skirt (mic holder is heaven i think i have 3 around here) lock the micrometer, insert your bore gage between the mics and move it around to find the tightest reading, then set your dial there for zero and recheck a few more times. now go down your bore and see how far you vary from zero. a .0005" resolution bore gage will suffice and be much cheaper than a tenth bore gage.

make absolutey sure you have a rodbolt stretch gage, a full 0-6 inch micrometer set in tenths and standards for all of them.

 

if you have access to a lathe try getting some dead centers for it. thats the easiest way to check crank and cam runout. dont use a livecenter with a bearing as it will introduce runout of its own.

 

thumbs up for a good thread

 

I don't like those band-type ring compressors because they sometimes move the rings around when you're tightening down the band. The machined piston installation tools are the easiest to use for me.

is this the one you like to use? http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku