hey yall i just got done building my b20 vtec and for some reason it keeps blowing the head gasket i used arp had studs with there lube torques them down 25-50-75 in 3 stops and brake them lose and did it 3 times as recomended my mods are as follows

b20b block
stock crank
probe ultra light rods
12.5 comp (1layer head gasket)
arp rod and heaed studs
b16 head
acl std. bearings
itr cams
greedy 4-2-1 header
skunk 2 i.m
skunk 2 pro series 68mm t.b
b16 oil pump
venom fuel rail
b&m fpr
ctr crank pully
7.5lb flywheel
golden eagle crvtec kit
exedy stage 1 disk with fi stage 3 p.p
j1 b16 trans for them short *** gears
socketed ecu from pherlles here on h-t
looking for hondata s200 right now


any help would be great either p.m me or im me on aim its in my sig thansk for any help u guys can give me

Modified by del_slow420 at 5:13 PM 10/18/2006


Modified by del_slow420 at 9:53 PM 10/18/2006

 

Did you mill the head or block? Reason being, If you don't shorten your dowell pins, you can't really torque down the head tight enough. Could also be the 1 layer head gasket too, or a combination.

 

Are you using a HG designed for a B20 or a VTEC head? As I believe a B20 HG is the one too use. Apprently the HG supplied in the GE kit is not the right one to use.

 

what arp head studs are you using?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by del_slow420 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey yall i just got done building my b20 vtec and for some reason it keeps blowing the head gasket i used arp had studs with there lube torques them down 12-50-75 in 3 stops and brake them lose and did it 3 times as recomended my mods are as follows

b20b block
stock crank
probe ultra light rods
12.5 comp (1layer head gasket)
arp rod and heaed studs
b16 head
itr cams
greedy 4-2-1 header
skunk 2 i.m
skunk 2 pro series 68mm t.b
b16 oil pump
venom fuel rail
b&m fpr
ctr crank pully
7.5lb flywheel
golden eagle crvtec kit
exedy stage 1 disk with fi stage 3 p.p
j1 b16 trans for them short *** gears
socketed ecu from pherlles here on h-t
looking for hondata s200 right now


any help would be great either p.m me or im me on aim its in my sig thansk for any help u guys can give me


</TD></TR></TABLE>

jesus christ!!! single layer hg + 12.5 cr =

try using a stock OEM 3 layer head gasket. lower compression doesn't mean low whp...btw, here's a dyno of my daily driven 11.3-11.5:1 motor

 

get the head/deck checked to see if it has been warped

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suck my DX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get the head/deck checked to see if it has been warped</TD></TR></TABLE>

and use a 3 layer head gasket

 

Yeah--the one or two layer (modified) HG will work but they sure as hell aren't going to be as reliable as a HG that was made with 3-layers. You probably won't lose any hp anyway--because at 12.5:1 I bet your tune is being compromised somewhere on pump gas. Great for bragging rights, terrible for actual performance/reliability.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by del_slow420 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey yall i just got done building my b20 vtec and for some reason it keeps blowing the head gasket i used arp had studs with there lube torques them down 12-50-75 in 3 stops and brake them lose and did it 3 times as recomended my mods are as follows

b20b block
stock crank
probe ultra light rods
12.5 comp (1layer head gasket)
arp rod and heaed studs
b16 head
itr cams
greedy 4-2-1 header
skunk 2 i.m
skunk 2 pro series 68mm t.b
b16 oil pump
venom fuel rail
b&m fpr
ctr crank pully
7.5lb flywheel
golden eagle crvtec kit
exedy stage 1 disk with fi stage 3 p.p
j1 b16 trans for them short *** gears
socketed ecu from pherlles here on h-t
looking for hondata s200 right now


any help would be great either p.m me or im me on aim its in my sig thansk for any help u guys can give me</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't break them loose. Torque them to 70 ft lbs. using ARP moly lube. That is directly from ARP themselves.
Also, which studs are you using? Hopefully not LS, B20, or B16 ones.
Are you torquing in the right sequence?

 

thanks for all the help the 12.5:1 is with the one layer im gonna try to use an oem 3 layer and see if it helps, i got the arp head studs from arp part number 208-4306 for the b20b with b16a head, the head gasket is the one from the golden eagle kit specified to them 84mm bore, it had the bigger dowel holes in it, some one siad to just torque them down once to 70 with the lube ill try that this time i rebuild the motor, and im going tomorrow to get the head checked it came off my b16 that came in the sol so i dont think its bad but this is the first i used the motor thanks for all the help ill get everything checked out the head and block to make sure its not warped i did all the work at home if anyone else has any imput please just let me no ill have up my compression numbers tomorrow

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DJ_NeX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you mill the head or block? Reason being, If you don't shorten your dowell pins, you can't really torque down the head tight enough. Could also be the 1 layer head gasket too, or a combination.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no neither were done due to my piston and valve clarence is already close and compression is high enough

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acydphryck &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

jesus christ!!! single layer hg + 12.5 cr =

try using a stock OEM 3 layer head gasket. lower compression doesn't mean low whp...btw, here's a dyno of my daily driven 11.3-11.5:1 motor

</TD></TR></TABLE>

can u please post your set up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by del_slow420 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can u please post your set up</TD></TR></TABLE>

search.

He's posted it a zillion times.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by del_slow420 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for all the help the 12.5:1 is with the one layer im gonna try to use an oem 3 layer and see if it helps, i got the arp head studs from arp part number 208-4306 for the b20b with b16a head, the head gasket is the one from the golden eagle kit specified to them 84mm bore, it had the bigger dowel holes in it, some one siad to just torque them down once to 70 with the lube ill try that this time i rebuild the motor, and im going tomorrow to get the head checked it came off my b16 that came in the sol so i dont think its bad but this is the first i used the motor thanks for all the help ill get everything checked out the head and block to make sure its not warped i did all the work at home if anyone else has any imput please just let me no ill have up my compression numbers tomorrow </TD></TR></TABLE>

DON'T torque them in one straight shot to 70 ft lbs. Torque them in 25 ft/lb increments much like the haynes or chiltons has you do for oem bolts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

search.

He's posted it a zillion times.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you can say that again.....thing is all he posts about.

 

yea i no this did u not read my first post?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bambam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

DON'T torque them in one straight shot to 70 ft lbs. Torque them in 25 ft/lb increments much like the haynes or chiltons has you do for oem bolts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by del_slow420 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">t...some one siad to just torque them down once to 70 with the lube ill try that this time i rebuild the motor, and... </TD></TR></TABLE>

I was replying to what you wrote above. You said "torque them down once to 70". So, I said "don't torque them down straight to 70". Make sense now?

 

they ment just once because i have herd many of times to do 25-50-75 in sequence then lossen them and do it agian then lossin then do it again... haha make sence?

 

Ok. What you originally wrote was a little confusing. Yah, whoever told you that is a ******* retard. They're not stretch-type bolts. The OEM ones aren't even stretch-type.


Modified by bambam at 5:13 AM 10/19/2006

 

yea iv just herd that from many of people but im just doin it once as soon as i get my head gasket.. i no i need one for a 84mm bore but get a vtec or non vtec gasket or is there a diffrence? sounds like i dunno what im talking bout but at least i can build motors

 

non vtec.

 

thanks for the help im just gonna get a oem gasket.. well a 3 layer from golden eagle since it has the larger dowel holes.. and other info would be great

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by del_slow420 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the help im just gonna get a oem gasket.. well a 3 layer from golden eagle since it has the larger dowel holes.. and other info would be great</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yah, that'll be fine.

 

did a compresson test today and my numbers were 275-275-275-270 i found out that i out the wrong gas in my car i had gone out to get gas and got 93 and i accedently put 87 in it with 12.5 compression went out got more 93 and some octane booster and its runnin strong now