i already did a search but am wondering how i can accomidate the usdm tbar to latch with my sir hood. ive read of dremeling out the holes, but i dont want to start cutting up the support. wondering how people have done it with washers, i just tried but it seems i cant get any more then maybe 2 in there because of the way its shaped. someone lemme know.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by menappi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i already did a search but am wondering how i can accomidate the usdm tbar to latch with my sir hood. ive read of dremeling out the holes, but i dont want to start cutting up the support. wondering how people have done it with washers, i just tried but it seems i cant get any more then maybe 2 in there because of the way its shaped. someone lemme know. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Washers will work I used LONGER screws (4 of them). I elongated the holes on my latch slightly in order to accommodate the SiR front end.

The reason why you can’t fit any washer in there is b/c the original screw(s) are to short.

The rad support needs to go up about half an inch and forward as well.

 

yea i figured it needs to move a lot, so you just elongated the holes then? or did u use washers also. i was looking at the hood latch on the tbar, and if i elongate the wholes, the part where the hood latches too (the piece that sticks up and hooks onto) wont beable to move forward enough to where the hood will latch on it, it looks like i would have to cut some of that to make it fit.

 

I moved the latch TOWARDS the firewall by grinding the holes bigger and movved the rad support AWAY from the firewall using washers and longer bolts

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ch3mik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I moved the latch TOWARDS the firewall by grinding the holes bigger and movved the rad support AWAY from the firewall using washers and longer bolts </TD></TR></TABLE>

this is what i did as well. the jdm front end was originally on there with just the sliding adjustments maxed out..it closed...but it sucked..it was hard to adjust the rod too and bent the retainer tab on the pull cable assembly under the latch .... this is the way the place that did the paint put the thing on ...

i did not like it and tried to fix it using normal adjustment methods etc...but it flopped around like mad at 150 mph...

so i had to take matters a bit further and shim the support forward and re-align everything ..... now it is very happy and i can adjust the rod for proper tension etc..and the cable is happy again (after fixing the tab)

that is one way to do it..and not terribly improper... the REAL best way to do it (i.e. the OEM way that honda did it on their D-series cars that came with the "SiR style" front end)....is to use that rad support from that ZC car that came with the bump-up hood..... since it is still using the D-series chassis (unibody itself is actually bit shorter than the EF b-series versions) good luck finding one tho

 

how much do u think i need to drill out of the hood. if someoen had a pic that would be awesome but i dont expect anyone to take any. ia lready have teh tbar maxed out and with washers..i guesse i need to just figure out the hood now.

alexdog, what do u mean u had to adjust the rod..what rod? the one with the spring on it?

 

here you go

http://faq.ef-honda.com/index....ng=en

 

sorry but you are an idiot if you are going 150mph in an EF. If that were possible btw.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alexdog69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is what i did as well. the jdm front end was originally on there with just the sliding adjustments maxed out..it closed...but it sucked..it was hard to adjust the rod too and bent the retainer tab on the pull cable assembly under the latch .... this is the way the place that did the paint put the thing on ...

i did not like it and tried to fix it using normal adjustment methods etc...but it flopped around like mad at 150 mph...

so i had to take matters a bit further and shim the support forward and re-align everything ..... now it is very happy and i can adjust the rod for proper tension etc..and the cable is happy again (after fixing the tab)

that is one way to do it..and not terribly improper... the REAL best way to do it (i.e. the OEM way that honda did it on their D-series cars that came with the "SiR style" front end)....is to use that rad support from that ZC car that came with the bump-up hood..... since it is still using the D-series chassis (unibody itself is actually bit shorter than the EF b-series versions) good luck finding one tho</TD></TR></TABLE>

i found 5 of them on ebay right now for pretty cheap too

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alexdog69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

that is one way to do it..and not terribly improper... the REAL best way to do it (i.e. the OEM way that honda did it on their D-series cars that came with the "SiR style" front end)....is to use that rad support from that ZC car that came with the bump-up hood..... since it is still using the D-series chassis (unibody itself is actually bit shorter than the EF b-series versions) good luck finding one tho

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe I missed something, but when exactly did an EF come with a factory B series?

 

just move the latch on the hood back alittle bit, then drill new holes to bolt it down to the hood. my hood closes perfectly and to gap inbetween. its the easiest way. i didnt use washers or anything. im pretty sure other people did it this way.