go to hmt to see this thread


Modified by weiRtech at 9:11 PM 5/31/2008

 

nice

 

1in thick AL plates work better. Basically you weld the runners fully and then weld them to the head flange. Make sure to leave the manifold bolted to the plate until it's COLD TO THE TOUCH!

No offense Wier but a stainless wire wheel will do wonders to help rid those welds of contamination.

 

best way to reduce warpage...perfect fitment on your pipes.

 

verry nice. I always have done it in similar way, but I cut and route all my pipes first. Then brake them down and fully weld one runner at a time.

sometimes you can tell how much the flange would have worped, cuz once in a while I have to make one or two end pieces again, cuz they end up too short.

But its worth it cuz you end up with minimal warpage.

 

looks good.......but where is the hole for the wastegate? or will it be an internal gate turbo?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by weiRtech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the external wg will go on afterward.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

nice diy

 

thats exactly what i want to build-- what size are the runners and about how much did you pay total for materials???

 

I have noticed on several manifolds that it seems like the pipe that is welded to the head flange has been ovalized for lack of a better term. I am assuming this is because the ports are oval shaped and it will be easier to weld and have a better port match, but I have yet to figure out how it is being done. Could you possibly enlighten me?
Thanks
Michael

 

question. on sch 10 are you gapping the joints at all? and what kind of amperage are you using? filler size? pulsing the pedal to reduce heat? backpurging?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheBandit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have noticed on several manifolds that it seems like the pipe that is welded to the head flange has been ovalized for lack of a better term. I am assuming this is because the ports are oval shaped and it will be easier to weld and have a better port match, but I have yet to figure out how it is being done. Could you possibly enlighten me?
Thanks
Michael</TD></TR></TABLE>

heavy duty bench vise + a pipe for leverage

 

I c, thats sort of what I first imagined, just thought i would check to see if there was another way. I am also interested in 4cefed's question.
-Michael-

 

I hear dividing the exaust flange also helps to reduce warpage. Nice manifold btw

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4cefed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">question. on sch 10 are you gapping the joints at all? and what kind of amperage are you using? filler size? pulsing the pedal to reduce heat? backpurging?</TD></TR></TABLE>

no gap, just bevelled edges
scedule 10 304ss elbows and pipe
miller 180sd syncrowave
argon at 18cfm with gas lense
80 amps on pipe, 125 amps on flanges
1/16 309L filler
no back purging on this one

 

Maybe it is just me, but it looks like there isn't great penetration on the tubing....

How many passes on the tubing are you making?

 

weiRtech,
I also am using a 180sd and had the argon at 20cfm but still got the real dull grey welds. I am using a gas lense, 3/32 tungsten with 3/32 309L filler. I think my amperage was about 100 with partial pedal. What do you suspect is causing this?
Thanks!
-Michael-

 

^^^^ amps are too high. Back down a bit and don't sit in the same spot for too long.

 

it can be 3 things

too much heat, turn heat down or move faster

base metal, filler not clean enough (even if the cup or consumable is really dirty)

not enough or proper gas coverage, check your torch angle or gas flow. don't take your filler out of the gas coverage until it cools also

 

how many passes are being made? and how come you dont backpurge?

 

Thanks Alot for all the help guys!
-Michael-

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4cefed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how many passes are being made? and how come you dont backpurge?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

one pass. i may to 2 passes on the next one i build, but i don't expect this to crack and if it does, i'll fix it. i've had no issues on the manifold pictured below which is only 16g mild steel tube with one pass and no back purge.

back purging is only nescassary for full penetration. schedule 10 is pretty heavy material to get full penetration on something that is just flowing exhaust gases. pipe fitters will usually do back purging for pressure vessel welding that is meant to sustain 4000+psi of pressure. i don't feel it is nescassary in this instance.

 

I would say the manifold is holding more than just exhaust gas, it's holding up that heavy turbo, and dp in many cases. Street-driven vibration as long the weight and heat can be a big factor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by weiRtech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

one pass. i may to 2 passes on the next one i build, but i don't expect this to crack and if it does, i'll fix it. i've had no issues on the manifold pictured below which is only 16g mild steel tube with one pass and no back purge.

back purging is only nescassary for full penetration. schedule 10 is pretty heavy material to get full penetration on something that is just flowing exhaust gases. pipe fitters will usually do back purging for pressure vessel welding that is meant to sustain 4000+psi of pressure. i don't feel it is nescassary in this instance.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is almost exactly what Onefab said except he said you didnt need filler either

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eric@HorsepowerFreaks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">best way to reduce warpage...perfect fitment on your pipes. </TD></TR></TABLE>
agreed .... some people just dont understand why it warps !!