lowering spindles, anyone use these or have experience with them?
sorry if it's a repost
http://www.heldmotorsports.com...s.htm
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by "that link" »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is a special front spindle designed to lower the front of the vehicle by 1 1/2" without changing any of the control arm angles relative to the vehicle chassis. This is the industry-approved method of suspension lowering as it does not alter the manufacturer's geometry design.
In automotive circles the word spindle is used to describe an assembly which consists of a spindle, an upright member (which separates the upper and lower ball joints), a steering arm and a variety of brackets for mounting brake components etc. The actual spindle is the shaft about which the wheel rotates. On a "lowering spindle assembly", the shaft is raised in relation to the upright member, thereby having the effect of lowering the vehicle relative to the wheel.
When installing the SUPER TRICK Lowering Spindle Kit, no other changes are required. Because it does not modify the original factory geometry, no camber kits are necessary, no camber problems result, no induced bump-steer and no adverse camber gain.
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http://www.heldmotorsports.com...s.htm
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by "that link" »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is a special front spindle designed to lower the front of the vehicle by 1 1/2" without changing any of the control arm angles relative to the vehicle chassis. This is the industry-approved method of suspension lowering as it does not alter the manufacturer's geometry design.
In automotive circles the word spindle is used to describe an assembly which consists of a spindle, an upright member (which separates the upper and lower ball joints), a steering arm and a variety of brackets for mounting brake components etc. The actual spindle is the shaft about which the wheel rotates. On a "lowering spindle assembly", the shaft is raised in relation to the upright member, thereby having the effect of lowering the vehicle relative to the wheel.
When installing the SUPER TRICK Lowering Spindle Kit, no other changes are required. Because it does not modify the original factory geometry, no camber kits are necessary, no camber problems result, no induced bump-steer and no adverse camber gain.
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These have been around forever and never really caught on. If your just looking for a lowered look then these might be a good choice, but I'd rather have the benefit of negative camber on a lowered car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Furyof4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">These have been around forever and never really caught on. If your just looking for a lowered look then these might be a good choice, but I'd rather have the benefit of negative camber on a lowered car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly, why lower a car without the benefits of lowering?
Besides, they won't be legal for pretty much any race class, so you won't find alot of people using them.
Exactly, why lower a car without the benefits of lowering?
Besides, they won't be legal for pretty much any race class, so you won't find alot of people using them.
The Ryane lowering spindles have been around for many years, but have gone through periods of no availability due to company issues and have just never caught on. I think they're a good idea for all the stunnas around here who want to "slam it, y0!" for appearance/comfort purposes only, but I personally have no use for them from a performance/competition standpoint. Also, keep in mind that fender clearance can be an issue with aftermarket wheel/tire combos with wider widths and lower offsets, due to the lack of static camber and the change in the camber curve relative to ride height.
For most cars used in time trial, road racing, and autocross competition, replacement knuckles are prohibited by rules (except in the most expensive/involved classes). Also, most non-drag competition cars are lowered for the sole purpose of gaining as much negative camber as possible. These knuckles do not satisfy that need. You also don't get the benefit of greater roll stiffness to aid in camber control - which is gained from stiffer aftermarket springs - nor the improved control of an aftermarket damper (unless you additionally change springs, dampers, and/or anti-roll bars).
Modified by Targa250R at 2:26 AM 12/24/2006
For most cars used in time trial, road racing, and autocross competition, replacement knuckles are prohibited by rules (except in the most expensive/involved classes). Also, most non-drag competition cars are lowered for the sole purpose of gaining as much negative camber as possible. These knuckles do not satisfy that need. You also don't get the benefit of greater roll stiffness to aid in camber control - which is gained from stiffer aftermarket springs - nor the improved control of an aftermarket damper (unless you additionally change springs, dampers, and/or anti-roll bars).
Modified by Targa250R at 2:26 AM 12/24/2006
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Installing springs+shocks >>>>>>>>>>>>&g t;>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> ; removing and reconnecting axles, brake equipment, tie rods, LCAs, and damper forks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by future62 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Installing springs+shocks >>>>>>>>>>>>&g t;>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> ; removing and reconnecting axles, brake equipment, tie rods, LCAs, and damper forks</TD></TR></TABLE>
WTF?
WTF?
He's hinting on the fact that the install of these is a bit more involved than the more normal way to lower a car...
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