I plan on making the strut bar out of hollow box pipe. Probably around 1 inch or something. I originally was going for the one pipe, two mounting brackets design that has been done so many times.

I then thought, why not make a bar for each mounting point and connect the two. It'd be even stiffer that one bar...

What do u think of this pic?

 

i think it looks cool, if you have the resources to produce somthing like that then by all means do it! it doesnt hurt to try something new...

and yes it does look like it will increase the structural integrity of the unit but from what i have heard, the most stress put on chassis reinforcment peices like that is concentrated on the hardware mounting it to the vehicle... make sure that the hardware is of good quality and you should have an awesome addiion to your vehicle both aesthetically and structurally

cant wait to see the finished product

 

I have access to a welder so it's not a problem. Just wondering of ya'll think it'd work good.

 

it looks like it would be more inclined to twist that way, but give it a shot and let me know, the single bar centers the presure so it doesn't move, and ur dual bar looks like it would almost steer with the twist

 

Im not fabcricator but I would suggest boxing the ends of the tubing and adding diagonal braces... something like this



if you build it... i will buy it. make sure you make one that will fit a DA... k? kthx

 

Those vertical supports will not be very useful. Basically, you are trying to tie the two points together with a beam that will be loaded primarlily in tension and compression. If you are going to make a beam out of the two square bars, then you are better off attaching them together with a diagonal brace similar to what 4sd4dr pictured.

Also, as has been mentioned, the mounting points will be an area of concern. If you just have to do what you have pictured, you should put a radius on the corner to prevent a breakage due to stress concentration (a). Since it looks like you have the ability to weld, I would say do away with the cutout altogether and do weld a short section of tube into the bolt hole on the box section (c), or make a diagonal support (b) (see pic):

 

I am no genious, and don't claim to be. BUT I have gotten alot of compliments on the functionality of the bar I made. I know you have searched because you PMed me the other day. As long as you gusset the flanges, you won't have a problem. 2 bars is an over kill. Go to Home Depot, or Lowes, or a building supply, and ask to see some UNISTRUT. This stuff is strong as an ox. I used 11ga steel (1/8'') for the flanges. You may not want to be "lightweight" but you don't have to over kill it.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1696473

 

 

use a coat hanger... j/k..

Here check this site out, it looks like pretty easy to make out of box steel
http://www.explicitspeedperfor....html

 

i like what djphonics had to say... reducing stress with the radiused corner and welding in the tubing is a perfect way to remedy some of the stress...

 

I just don't think I have the facilities to make a single bar one like that. The mounting bracket would be near impossible for me to make.

 

ill sell you the password jdm strut tower braces ( frot and rear ) for 225 shiped. i think youll like them. there brand new. heres the link: http://passwordjdm.com/product...D=374

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90b20vteckidd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ill sell you the password jdm strut tower braces ( frot and rear ) for 225 shiped. i think youll like them. there brand new. heres the link: http://passwordjdm.com/product...D=374</TD></TR></TABLE>

225 for strut bars?! No thank you...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

225 for strut bars?! No thank you... </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I'm almost embarrassed to ask, but whatabout those cheap *** E-bay ones? Do you think they are even worth it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm almost embarrassed to ask, but whatabout those cheap *** E-bay ones? Do you think they are even worth it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

To some extent, the term "you get what you pay for" applies here. I would stay away from really dirt cheap ebay stuff. Most of it is pure junk in both construction and materials.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm almost embarrassed to ask, but whatabout those cheap *** E-bay ones? Do you think they are even worth it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

strut bar is a strut bar is a strut bar, some are just more baller than others. They all increase chassis stiffness. The ones with better materials are probally stronger but i never seen an ebay unit break from driving.


Modified by Boosted Chemist at 3:20 PM 10/14/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted Chemist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

strut bar is a strut bar is a strut bar, some are just more baller than others. They all increase chassis stiffness. The ones with better materials are probally stronger but i never seen an ebay unit brake from driving.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I have some friends wh0 got the e-gay bars, meh....they work..just not a baller brand name stuff. <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djphonics &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

To some extent, the term "you get what you pay for" applies here. I would stay away from really dirt cheap ebay stuff. Most of it is pure junk in both construction and materials.</TD></TR></TABLE>

pretty much.

But yeah, make em, and tell us how it goes!

 

What i did, is i got solid 1 1/4 hollo tubbing and added a flat bar inside welded and used a watercutter from my job to make custom plates for mounting. Ill take pics today. took like 1 hour to make.

 

you could do round steel tube.. like this ( of course it will be even.

the hollow points could be a peice of metal welded to the bottom and drilled out to allow the bolts to come thru and secure down.. pretty simple it worked on my 300zx back in the day.

 

hmmmm... That could work nicely. The only prob I see is making te round bottom. I have no facilities to cut metal like that.

 

Steel washer. Just weld it to the bottom of a tube with roughly the same OD. done.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Steel washer. Just weld it to the bottom of a tube with roughly the same OD. done. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thats a really good idea. just get a nice thick one of the correct gauge, and weld a to that!

 

Thats how I made my lower tie bar. 3 peices of pipe, and on the two small ones, welded a washer one end!


If worst comes to worst man, Go on ebay and buy the little package deal where you get like uber bars for like $10.00 shipped. haha and then when you get them, just use the flanges, and make your own bars, you may have to beef the flanges up a bit, or visa versa, make your own flanges, and use your new bling bling cross peices. Their are many different soulutions to this. I'll second what Boosted Chemist said, I have never seen an Ebay bar break, hell, I have a hand-me-down ebay bar that was originally on an EG hatch(that was road raced) and then on a beater interga, and then I somehow got it, and the only reason I haven't got a new one, or made a new one, is because it hasn't done me wrong, I just wish it wasn't chrome. Now that I mention it, I think I will paint it Monday!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Steel washer. Just weld it to the bottom of a tube with roughly the same OD. done. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That would actually be really nice because the hole in the middle would fit over the shock and I could drill two holes for the bolts. 4 u!