3 years ago when I started welding at school in Weld Tech I, we had a project, I had just got my 89 Si. So I made a strut bar in the back out of some 2x3x16ga rec tubing and some 11ga SS plated for the flanges. I migged it together and it looked ok but its gotten old to me now, and I now work in a Custom Fabrication Shop, so I decided to make this today out of a piece of Uni Strut, and some 11ga steel that I broke at 2 45 degree angles to gusset the flange to the Unistrut ( kinda like Password JDM's bars ) and welded them up with my Lincoln Pro175 (220v)

Anyway pics are kinda blurry because of it being inside the garage. So when I pull it out tomorrow I'll take some better ones. Let me know what you think. If I get some positive feedback on this one, I'll make one from aluminum at work. I don't have equipment at home to tig aluminum

 

SWEET, lets start an auction. first bid $25

 

haha
If I would have made this at work it would be like $75. We charge $65 per hour on mild steel. haha

 

Looks damn good. Its the best of the best as far as design. All solid, no pivot points, and everything gusseted the right way. Nice job!
Kyle

 

Nice work!

 

Yes please better pics, I want to see how you did this.

 

FOCUS!!!!

 

better pics! looks good though

 

Looks pretty good from what I can see - Kinda blurry tho. Got any clearer close-ups of the welds you did?

 

Yeah there is noting special about the welds, its just mig. Now if I tig equipment I would make it look like some pimp ****. haha
I had the camera perfectly still, I just think its the light so once I put the oil pan, and tie rod ends on tomorrow, I'll take it outside and take some better pics. Thanks for the complements. You can buy that unistrut at like home depot, its really light.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by p00n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah there is noting special about the welds, its just mig. Now if I tig equipment I would make it look like some pimp ****. haha
I had the camera perfectly still, I just think its the light so once I put the oil pan, and tie rod ends on tomorrow, I'll take it outside and take some better pics. Thanks for the complements. You can buy that unistrut at like home depot, its really light. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You can get the metal at Homedepot? If you have a chace can you show or tell me what you did to the ends? How you cut them? I have been tyring to make my own but thinking of some diff ways to make it mount.

 

i whipped this up on ms paint. we have a water jet machine at work so thats how the flanges were cut but you could cut it with a plasma or torch.

 

Did you mock the strut brace up with the rear end in the air or resting on the ground?

 

Gotten any clear shots?

is this with your phone?

your camera should be focusing,
try a diffrent setting, and make sure its on auto focus,
It could have been turned off, go to options,

I dont know what your using so I'm just shooting in the dark.

I'd like to see some clear shots, I'm interested in the bar,
You said you got that at home depot?

Is is strong?

Thanks, Jose

 

No, but you can get the material at Lowe's/Home Depot. The bar is very strong and effective, It is also light. I will take better pics, like i said its the light, the pic was taken at like 2:00am and I was in the garage with the lights on. The material is known as UniStrut.

 

It was on the ground

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by p00n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It was on the ground
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Remake it then

 

why?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remake it then</TD></TR></TABLE>

that makes no sense. the suspension being loaded has nothing to do w/ the brace. its purpose is to add rigidness during cornering where one side is loaded and the other is unloaded, however, the distance between the two strut mounts never changes, so the specs are the same loaded or unloaded.

 

Take out a frame chart, measure with the car on the ground on a 15+ year old chassis. With the suspension supporting the chassis, the measurements WILL be off....some measurements a great amount.

If your gonna make a brace then you can reachieve those stock numbers, and in turn your alignment, camber....general suspension geometry will be corrected. It has the potential to affect the entire chassis in small amounts. It matters.

Properly designed strut braces often won't even fit with the car on the ground, in some cases.

 

umm, i think you are confused. you do realize that hondas have wishbone suspension right??? upper strut mounting position has nothing to do w/ alignment. and how bout you check the specs w/ the suspension loaded and unloaded. they wont change, alignment specs will obvioulsy, but distance from strut mount to strut mount wont.

 

RC00E, your statement is false. I went and measured BOTH of my EF's, that's how bored I was. The measurements were EXACTLY the same. So that dissagreement is settled!............... NEXT

 

Good argument, and one that should have been covered a long time ago probably. With the upper strut bar in the front or rear of the car, will NOT change as proved by Poon. These are unibody cars, with all sorts of gusseting and bracing everywhere, especially around the upper shock towers. They will not move not matter what you do to them.
On the other hand, the lower tie bars NEED to be designed to the specs of the car OFF the ground. Believe me when I say this. I fabbed the baddest tie bars available for a year or so for DA's, and the measurement WILL change on the lower control arm mounts. This all has to do with the weight of the car wanting to pull the control arms apart, towards the outside of the car.
On another not...POON...like I said before, great looking bar! But come on now...get us some better pics! haha.
Kyle

 

pretty nasty dude i like that!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blueoval557 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good argument, and one that should have been covered a long time ago probably. With the upper strut bar in the front or rear of the car, will NOT change as proved by Poon. These are unibody cars, with all sorts of gusseting and bracing everywhere, especially around the upper shock towers. They will not move not matter what you do to them.
On the other hand, the lower tie bars NEED to be designed to the specs of the car OFF the ground. Believe me when I say this. I fabbed the baddest tie bars available for a year or so for DA's, and the measurement WILL change on the lower control arm mounts. This all has to do with the weight of the car wanting to pull the control arms apart, towards the outside of the car.
On another not...POON...like I said before, great looking bar! But come on now...get us some better pics! haha.
Kyle</TD></TR></TABLE>


WAIT, Question

So your saying that If I was to fab a lower rear tie bar,
I should put it on stands first?

Due to it trying to pull it apart while its on the ground,


So your saying that you want the lower tie bar to have stress put on it all the time?????
Becuase the tie bar is there to aid the car in cornering due to the stress.

Why would you build it so that it is always seeing stress?????


Just wondering, Thanks