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OK more radiator fan woes.......waited an hour and a half this time

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Old Oct 12, 2006 | 03:29 PM
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Default OK more radiator fan woes.......waited an hour and a half this time

OK so heres the deal. I took Reid's advice and powered the fan and yes it works.

So I let the car idle and rev it at 3K for the first 10 mins or so. It begins to get steamy and lots of bubbles coming up, but surprise surprise....no fan....again.

So I wait a little longer and the water temp is still sticking at three bars which is my normal operating temp. Then it starts spitting out coolant all over the place pretty violently. So I put some towels over the electric bits and wait some more.

The needle starts creeping to the half way point still no fan. When it hit the half mark I shut it off and that was at the hour and a half mark. What a waste of time. I'm so pissed off and my back hurts from bending over the car. GRRRRR

Anyway I think I'm going to rewire the stock fan up to it and see if it works. This is starting to irritate the $hit out of me.

Do you guys think I should try driving around with the cap on to see if the fan comes on?? How high of a water temp is too high??? Should I have let the car go above the half mark?? The car is supposed to run cooler not hotter, so the fan was supposed to come on, but it didnt.

Need some help.

And for the people with aftermarket aluminum radiators that took out the AC. Did you have any problem getting the radiator fan running?? I dont think the AC fan plug just hanging there should have anything to do with my problem, but I could be wrong.
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Old Oct 12, 2006 | 05:46 PM
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Default Re: OK more radiator fan woes.......waited an hour and a half this time (jdmspoonitr)

usually when the coolant is violant, like you say, it tells me there might be
a headgasket problem (combustable gasses getting into the coolant) Should be able to check the thermoswitch (switch that turns the fans on) at the thermostat
housing. if you jump that connetor, fans should come on. If it doesn't then you should switch the relays in the fuse box to see if it wasn't a relay problem.
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Old Oct 12, 2006 | 05:57 PM
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Take your thermostat out and drop it into a bowl of boiling water to make sure its opening, if it opens then replace the fan switch.
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Old Oct 12, 2006 | 06:08 PM
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the stock thermo gauge is not that accurate apparently so I wouldnt leave it running if its getting to the halfway point on the gauge. no telling how hot it actually is.

I know this is an ongoing issue, but I forget what has been done, why its being done, and what you have done so far to try and correct it.

If you put power to the fan and it came on, the fan is not the problem but you might want to check the connector for power. Otherwise its gotta be either the switch or thermostat itself. Are you sure the thermo is installed properly?? There isnt really anyway to install it incorrectly other than it not being seated properly but who knows. IIRC you have tried another thermo already but I would do as mentioned above and take that one out and test it. If the temp gauge is getting hot then you know the coolant is definitely hot enough to switch the thermo open. Are both top and bottom hoses getting warm??? The odd part to me is that the coolant level in the radiator is going up and down and bubbling out...that indicates to me that the thermo is opening. How much bubbling is actually occuring?? Does it bubble violently if you are just letting it idle? That could be some sort of head gasket leak but I would think the fan should still come on if the system if functioning properly.

BTW having the A/C plug hanging there wont have any effect on this. Mine has been hanging for 3 yrs.
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Old Oct 12, 2006 | 06:18 PM
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Default Re: (RTW DC2R)

I just did a radiator install and radiator hose install. The stock thermo has never been touched. My stock fan & radiator worked fine before I installed these two things.....I am 99.9999999% positive my wiring was done well.....its only two wires i mean cmon im not retarded

Anyway yah the fan works it just wont come on.

Well for the first 45 mins it was bubbling like every couple seconds like 5 little bubbles would come out similar to if you were blowing bubbles in a drink except small little bubbles. Then for the last 30 mins I couldnt tell if there was bubbles because the coolant was splashing all over the place.....I tried putting towels over everything while not getting burned.

Stupid fan.....I'm gonna take that thing out and put the stock fan in.
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Old Oct 12, 2006 | 06:22 PM
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stupid question, but did you make sure you plugged in both the ECT sensor plugs on the head under the distro?
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Old Oct 12, 2006 | 06:30 PM
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Default Re: (RTW DC2R)

I never unplugged anything besides the stock AC fan and the stock radiator fan.....everything else I didnt touch because I had no reason to.
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Old Oct 12, 2006 | 06:34 PM
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possible one of them came loose when removing the radiator hose?
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Old Oct 12, 2006 | 06:46 PM
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Default Re: (RTW DC2R)

I will check on it tomorrow. But plugs dont just fall out on their own. But I guess its possible. I feel like a retard. I stood there with a flashlight to see if the fan was somehow on but silent

Burnt myself with coolant multiple times....but hey it doesnt hurt as much as bacon grease!!
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Old Oct 12, 2006 | 06:50 PM
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Default Re: (jdmspoonitr)

you said but plugs
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Old Oct 12, 2006 | 07:19 PM
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Default Re: (RTW DC2R)

hahaha i know....when I reread it I laughed...thought nobody else would notice

BUTT PLUGS!!!
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Old Oct 12, 2006 | 07:26 PM
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Default Re: (jdmspoonitr)

I had the same problem before on another Honda I have owned. IT is the thermostat. Try it. go to Autozone, kragen, Napa , pepboys walmart lol..etc etc and buy a cheap $15 one. The fan switch is right behind the thermostat so when it is stuck...the coolant will not pass by the thermo switch so it has no idea it is boiling up. Go try it.
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Old Oct 12, 2006 | 07:50 PM
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Default Re: (vivid 02)

Possible problems:

1) System was not purged of any trapped air
2) Faulty thermostat
3) Faulty fan switch
4) Hose(s) are not properly clamped down (Switch to T clamps)
5) Radiator end tank is leaking
6) Radiator cap is leaking
7) Ground is not connected near thermostat
8) Sensors near distributor are loose
9) Fan switch fuse is not properly seated and/or broken
10) Fan wiring sheathing could be grounding out on another metallic object cause the fan not to work.
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Old Oct 12, 2006 | 07:53 PM
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Fan Switch.
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Old Oct 12, 2006 | 08:01 PM
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Default Re: (ITR#132)

But everything worked fine before so I dont see how anything could be wrong besides the wiring.
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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 03:05 AM
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"my computer worked fine yesterday, but now it wont boot up." I heard that **** every day. **** just happens bro.
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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 07:23 AM
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Default Re: (RTW DC2R)

Have you turned off the car, turned the AC on(along with the fan), and then turned the key to accesories? With the key turned all the way(without starting the car) the fan should work...
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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 08:58 AM
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Default Re: (walker111)

I have no AC bro. I only have one fan and its the radiator fan. And my heater dont work either.
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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 09:18 AM
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Default Re: (jdmspoonitr)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmspoonitr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have no AC bro. I only have one fan and its the radiator fan. And my heater dont work either. </TD></TR></TABLE>

So the climate control doesnt work? When you turn it on you dont here a fan going?
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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 02:53 PM
  #20  
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Default Re: (walker111)

The only thing that works on the climate control is the lights.
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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 03:15 PM
  #21  
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Default Re: OK more radiator fan woes.......waited an hour and a half this time (jdmspoonitr)

Looking at a 98 Ingegra service manual with no a/c: check under the hood fuses
No. 41(100amp fuse), No. 57(20 amp fuse), and No. 42(40 amp fuse) These fuses
are all related to the fans turning on. According to the circuit diagram, you should
have 12v at the green wire on the thermo switch( located at thermostat housing when ignition is on. Oh forgot something...check under dash fuse No. 17(7.5 amp)
If you jump the green to black at thermoswitch...fans should run because the relay
supplies power to the fan motor.
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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 05:10 PM
  #22  
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I had the same problem. Twice.

First time it was the ECT(Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor on the head.

Second time it was the Fan Switch located on the thermostat housing.

http://www.barancoacuraparts.c...dIrno=

First time it was number 13
Second time it was number 12

Too double check which one it is, have the car running with the rad cap on, then pull off the harness clip on either number 13 or 12, stick a paper clip into each end of the harness. If the fan comes on, you've found which sensor is the problem.

Keep us updated to which one it is.

Other than that, it could be your thermostat which is number 3, you'd have to take that out and put it in a bowl of boiling water, if it opens up, it's not ur thermostat.
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