Ok so i searched and couldn't find an exact procedure for testing the integrity of my fuel pump....i'm NOT SURE if my fuel pump is dead but before i drop the tank and go through the whole process i need to test it...


Before you guys start referring to other things to look for..this isall that i've done:
-The fuel pump was working before a recent swap
-The car hasn't started with the new swap so thats why i'm troubleshooting options
-Replaced the main relay's ..tried 2 diff. relays...one of them starts another one of my crx's all the time
-ALL grounds were checked and rechecked-my grounds are good,
-My wiring was done correctly..taken apart..redone..everything is fine..
-Tried different ECU's...different WORKING ECU's

Still NO fuel pump priming when i turn the key to "on" position


So before i start taking everything apart i need to know if my Fuel Pump is good!

This is what i've been told to do as of yet:

-Take the volt-meter and see if i'm getting any voltage to the harness on top of my rear cargo/tool compartment...on the YELLOW-BLACK stripe wire
---i tested it ...its getting somewhere between 5-7v

-Run a direct 12v hot lead into that yello-black wire and see if the fuel pump primes
---did that...and the pump never primes....


Any help is greatly appreciated!



Modified by pr3d at 3:00 AM 10/13/2006

 

anyone??

 

when you turn the key on (but not start), you cant hear the pump priming at all? if youre positive all the wiring, relays etc..are good and still...nothing, then i would probably get a new one.

 

yea..but i'm sure there's still a way to test the fuel pump before just replacing it...

 

..?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pr3d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
-Run a direct 12v hot lead into that yello-black wire and see if the fuel pump primes
---did that...and the pump never primes....


Any help is greatly appreciated!
</TD></TR></TABLE>If you ran a hot wire directly to the pump and it didnt go nuts then its bad... I suggest a walbro 255LPH. Direct bolton, Make sure that the tank is good when you pull it down for the pump. If it has some rust(Edit for clarification: Rust inside the tank) just replace it or you'll be replacing another pump. Walbro pump $100 New tank from Autozone $80.

 

hmm..so a direct 12v to the yellow-black wire should stir it up rite? ..because i have done that in the past and nothing came of it,

also, this is a commuter project so i need a stock replacement, i still have a junked chassis i could probably take the pump off of...

 

sounds like the fuel pump, also check the alternator solenoid(something like that) fuse under the dash. It gives power to the main relay.

you should be getting 12 volts of power at the yellow/black wire for 2 seconds when you turn the key to the second position. Then itll give like 7-8 volts if you turn over the engine. When I did mine i couldnt get the multimeter to read any voltage, but I got a friend who uses one more often and he was getting voltage like it was supposed to. I changed the fuel pump and it fixed the problem.

 

hmm..one more question...that wouldn't damage the pump would it? if i just ran a 12v from the battery to the pump..?

 

Just jumper it at the main relay harness..
The procedure is described here:
http://crf50.no-ip.com/fourthg....html

 

hmm..ok i'll give that a shot when i get home..just jumping those 2 wires... if the pump doesn't turn on....its the pump for sure rite? that page tells me to look into it more but....if the wiring is fine..then its the pump for sure..?

 

Yeah its the fuel pump for sure...
But of course this is a car and nothing is for sure, ever. I would really be supprised if it wasnt though, based on the description youve been giving us.
Unless you really want to continue testing the fuel pump even after youve tested it bad already.

 

ok so i jumped those two wires on the main relay plug..as instructed by the manual, still no fuel pump priming...i even did everything in steps on that page to see if anything else was malfuntioning...so if the fuel pump still doesn't prime..its def. the fuel pump then...thanks for the help guys..

 

If you are going to replace it yourself,
There is some good info here that may help you:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1263692

 

wow..thanks..that will def. come in handy..nxt weekend's booked for this project!

 

For future reference, if this thread is ever seen again, why didn't you just pull the fuel line from the FPR?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuperSteve737 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For future reference, if this thread is ever seen again, why didn't you just pull the fuel line from the FPR? </TD></TR></TABLE>
What are you talking about? You can <U>hear</U> if the fuel pump is working, he was trying to diagnose if the fuel pump was bad or the wiring was bad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bob_760 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What are you talking about? You can <U>hear</U> if the fuel pump is working, he was trying to diagnose if the fuel pump was bad or the wiring was bad.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just seemed like a whole lot of posts for such a simple task, pulling out the wiring diagrams, etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuperSteve737 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Just seemed like a whole lot of posts for such a simple task, pulling out the wiring diagrams, etc. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed, all he really had to do was jumper the fuel pump to power and if it didn't work it was toast or check that the voltage was there and the pump was still not working. Either way he wanted to make sure before he dropped the tank and replaced it, I'd wanna be damn sure too haha.

 

hey how did you connect the 12v to the yellow and black wire did u just splice it and swap it around ?

 

Splice

 

Good idea to check the ignition switch too. If you don't hear it prime or it cuts out randomly. Much easier to replace.