I always have used 5w-30 since its good year round and it doesn't get crazy warm in the summer like other places. should i start using synthetic or what? i have about 70k on my f22b1 motor. my engine is running perfectly now, and does not burn even an ounce of oil b/w oil changes. what do you guys recommend?


what do you guys use?

 

Mobil 1 10w30 Synthetic.

 

mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic

 

mobil one 5w-30
amsoil 5w-30
redline 5w-30

 

royal purple 10w-30...i get it fo cheap

 

I'm not sure you really need synthetic unless you drive hard, but I would suggest a synthetic blend.

Either valvoline dura blend or the Mobil blend. 5w-30 should be fine unless you live in a very hot climate then 10w-30. Only the 92-96 closed deck h22s really need 10w-30.

 

can someone please explain to me why 10w30 is better for hotter climates thanks

 

Inorder to get a 5 rating for cold whether certain additives must be used. These additives only last about 1,500 miles before they effect the high temp rating and it doesn't protect as well. So if yer not starting yer car below 30 degrees and regulary see 100+ degree temps I would use 10w30.

The closed deck h22's need it cause they are not as efficient at cooling like the open deck ones. The thicker oil is also better for VTEC operation.

 

so thicker oil allows higher oil pressure? b/c DOHC VTEC relies on a good amount of oil pressure to engage correctly.

 

i change my answer

mobil1 10w30

 

Mobil 1 0W30 for winter
Mobil 1 5W30 for summer.

the oil thread in the type-r forum is pretty good, you guys checked it out yet?

 

Must be pretty cold where you live huh.

 

incorrect, the factory specifies 5w-30 for a reason, and yes the solenoid is activated upon oil pressure but higher weight is not good for the motor due to the fact that it is thicker higher viscosity and slow to move, aslo puts extra strain on the oil pump gears that are a real brittle powdered metal

 

I live in the Northeast it can be really cold or really hot, always used 5w-30 the brand has jumped around a bit from Mobile to Castrol, and back to Mobile whatever Sam's club has on sale, the car has 222,000 miles on it now and no internal engine problems whatsoever. I'm just glad that for the last 74 oil changes I used dino oil instead of spending all that extra money on Synthetics... I think as long as you drive the car long enough to burn off any deposits in the oil, and change it every 3K there's no need for synthetics? Anyhow I'll keep ya posted as to when the engine blows up.

 

you all know conventional oil is made from parrafin wax and other various distillates right?

just thought i'd mention that

 

The factory also does specify the use of 10w-30 in hot climates in the owners manual and the service manual. I don't the oil is thick enough to put that big of a strain to actually cause problems. I agree it may hurt power though by 1hp or so. Besides what's worse yer oil pump wearing out or yer engine wearing out cause the 5w-30 can't stand up to 100+ degree temps like a 10w-30 can. I think the engine's going to go before the oil pump will.

 

What exactly is a powdered metal?

 

so which should yeild theoretically yield more power? 10w30 or 5w30?

 

0w30 would be best for power, but results would only be noticeable on a dyno.

I would stick with 10w30 in the summer at least cause Texas is frigin hot and go to 5w30 in the winter if you want.

 

just to make sure do you guys know what the designations mean?

0w30
5w30
10w30

the first number designates its cold temperature viscosity, and the last its hot temperature viscosity in the end they all have the same at temp thermal properties, the only difference is viscosity and lower temps upon start up

 

Sorry man yer wrong they really don't have all the same properties after about 1,500 miles of use. There are additives to make the viscosity that low and afterawhile they can hurt the high temp protection of the oil. I thought it didn't matter either until somone told me about this. I will say that synthetic use less of these additives to get a 0 or 5 weight than a dino oil since they naturally flow better.

When HAN is back up talk to a guy named Bror Jace or look for his posts.

 

hrmm, interesting

 

0-30 will be the thinest cold and hot
10-30 would be the thickest
the #s do represent hot and cold temp fluidity, but are not completly accurate.
and my instrustor at vir ran 10-50 in his itr, bc the thicker oil is less likely to burn/blowby

 

true but it places unnecessary strain on the oil pump, honda stock oil pumps are real fragile especially b-series motors....powdered brittle metal

 

I recommend Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic, you can really feel the difference after
a couple of oil changes.