today i was driving to work and when i went to shift into 2nd from the stop light, i pushed the clutch in, shifted and it never came back up...i had to "kick" it back up...now it didn't do this again, but there is so much free play and it only has a 1/2 inch to engage and disengage, and it was hard at first to get it in between the gears...

i did a search, and it sounds like it may be the master cylinder gone bad...

however, i had the transmission taken out this past weekend to change the bearings in it...the hydrolic system was never touched, but the clutch shift fork and spring was taken off and cleaned/lubed...

could that be the problem? or it doesnt matter and it was time for the Clutch MC to **** the bed?

 

Check the fluid level first, but most likely it's going to be the MC.

 

fluid level is full, not seeing any leaks...

 

did you bleed it when you put it back together?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ill Mitch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you bleed it when you put it back together?</TD></TR></TABLE>

we never opened the system...

 

if it was the shift fork/spring I would assume it wouldnt work at all after this happened, rather than you being able to kick it back and make it work again. definitely sounds like MC/Slave problem. theck the boot near the push rod for the MC, and check the slave for leaks. what about the clutch and TO bearing? I hope you made sure the TO was lubed up nice and no damage to the clutch.

 

no leaks near the slave, the throwout bearing was fine and the clutch was too...man im sinking all this money into her instead of buying nice goodies...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxgator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no leaks near the slave, the throwout bearing was fine and the clutch was too...man im sinking all this money into her instead of buying nice goodies... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Look at it this way though, once you get through all the BS, you'll have all new parts and no more worries.

 

i had the exact same problem, driving on the highway shift to 5th and it got stuck to the floor, kick it couple times to get it back up had to do it like 4 times til i got home. changed out the MC and it was fixed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Look at it this way though, once you get through all the BS, you'll have all new parts and no more worries. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i still need to order tune-up parts too, lol...i recently purchased the tbelt/waterpump to do it now instead of 90k...

it seems like the OEM is the cheapest replacement...anyone use anything but OEM for replacment?

 

I think the only one you'll hear mentioned is the omni, everyone else has oem.

Mugen Mike has the omni, I'm sure he'll chime in shortly.....

 

OEM is fine. From what Ive heard the only reason to replace the belt with other than OEM belt is if you are using huge cams. Im making very high HP and on an OEM belt with OEM cams. I was on JUN3s all motor and used OEM belt and had no issues for over 20K miles(other than throwing a rod thru the block )

what do you mean you are sinking all this money into it? what are you doing to it? just maintenance or are things broken or not working right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OEM is fine. From what Ive heard the only reason to replace the belt with other than OEM belt is if you are using huge cams. Im making very high HP and on an OEM belt with OEM cams. I was on JUN3s all motor and used OEM belt and had no issues for over 20K miles(other than throwing a rod thru the block )

what do you mean you are sinking all this money into it? what are you doing to it? just maintenance?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Er.. what? Could you pass that please? Are we still talking about the MC?

 

Yea, Ryan, give that **** to Dave, you obviously dont think straight with it

 

*Chiming in*

I installed the Omni earlier this year under the assumption my stock unit had gone bad. It ended up being a sticky TO bearing causing the problem.

I'd say it shortens the pedal travel by about 1/2, and also makes the pedal quite a bit stiffer (but not unbearable). I give it

 

haha I think he edited his post dipshits! it now says "i still need to order tune-up parts too, lol...i recently purchased the tbelt/waterpump to do it now instead of 90k...

it seems like the OEM is the cheapest replacement...anyone use anything but OEM for replacment? "

:middlefinger:

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha I think he edited his post dipshits! it now says "i still need to order tune-up parts too, lol...i recently purchased the tbelt/waterpump to do it now instead of 90k...

it seems like the OEM is the cheapest replacement...anyone use anything but OEM for replacment? "

:middlefinger:</TD></TR></TABLE>

joo da dipshiza, he awreddy gotz tbelt. y wawnt hee anudder on1e?

 

Thanks Mike

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do you mean you are sinking all this money into it? what are you doing to it? just maintenance or are things broken or not working right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

well the input shaft bearing was dying...that cost me $350 last week for the bearings and labor...now i will have about $400+ in parts i need to order...

i picked up the tbelt/waterpump/tensioner for $160 which is a good deal...i knew i had to do some maintainance, which is fine, but the all of a sudden breaking of parts is what's killing me...i have rent, car insurance, car payment due...

i need a better job and for someone to buy my civic...

i think i have to sell my oem ITR muffler and put on the flowmaster...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxgator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

well the input shaft bearing was dying...that cost me $350 last week for the bearings and labor...now i will have about $400+ in parts i need to order...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

what made you think that was bad? what were the symptoms?? Id like to know because Im currently working on my trans.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxgator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i think i have to sell my oem ITR muffler and put on the flowmaster... </TD></TR></TABLE>

why? sell your seats, youll make more

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what made you think that was bad? what were the symptoms?? Id like to know because Im currently working on my trans. </TD></TR></TABLE>

noise when clutch pedal is out, gone when pedal is in...it was def. it, but we also changed 3 other bearings and a seal to be safe...

 

just reading the first post soundslike a clutch master, i changed the one on my car at 50,000. i had an issue where it just felt like crap and i looked to do an adjustment and i saw it was leaking into the car where the rod goes to the clutch assym. lucky me i had bought one anyway...

 

will it be ok if i dont change the slave cylinder?

are the CMC basically all the same; like can i use one from a 99-00 civic si?

 

I have a used CMC from my ITR for sale, if you're interested....

 

ehh, im a bit iffy on buying a used one...i kind of need one now, and im trying to source a local one...thanks though...