Background
OBD-0 PR3 B16A
It's been running great, pulling strong. Recently checked the compression came up 160psi accross the board.

Story
So i was working on my CRX last night trying to diagnose the wiring issues with the IAC and checked some **** then gave up. As far as i know it was running fine when i started it up right before i finished to check if the code had come back.

This morning i went out started my car and backed it up into the neighbor's driveway across the street so my bro could pull his car into the driveway seemed fine then too. Pulled it back into the end of my driveway and left it run while i got ready to go pick up my friend to take him to work.

Came out got in, and when i went to back up the car felt wierd i was jabbing the gas pedal and it was barely revving. then i got out to the street and tried to move and even at wot it would barely accelerate. same with free revving it just sloooooooooowly revs up, I have no idea where to start.

Symptoms
Car revs painfully slow regardless of load.

What I've Checked
-Removed alternator belt to make sure it wasent siezed and bogging the motor.
-Oil level was about a half quart low (my oil pan leaks) so i filled it up, no changes.
-Check engine light still only reads code 14 Idle Air Controller.
-Temperature gauge doesn't work but it has a brand new Mugen thermostat and the fan runs full time and coolant system didn't seem unusually hot.
-No dash idiot lights such as low oil pressure or anything still has 1/4 tank of gas.
-Let it cool down for a bit and tried to start it, no changes.

Any Ideas?

I'll be doing more testing once it cools down.

Thanks,
-Kurt

 

Check your oil and coolant for mixing. A sudden loss of power can be a head gasket.

 

did you just do the swap? or has it been in the car for awhile

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89 civic si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you just do the swap? or has it been in the car for awhile</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its been in for a good long time now (bought the car like this and it hadent JUST been swapped when i bought it) probably been in for at least 3 years.

 

check all the stupid things plugs wires chang the fuel filter check the dis cap and rotor check all of his wiring

 

Changed the fuel filter, the wires are pretty new, don't know about the disty tho...
Also I realized that it could be misconstrued that I recently bought the car as it is. I have had the car for about a year and I've completely gone over the hacked up wiring and fixed <U>everything</U>...

 

eh nevermind.... I opened the oil cap and sniffed around and it definately smells like burned coolant..........
So R.I.P. (for now)

It also seems to be leaking coolant from the passenger side at the headgasket and it looks like oil (is leaking/has leaked) from the drivers side...

 

Total suckage. At least it isn't an overly difficult job, just time consuming. Since you have to get new head bolts anyway, might as well upgrade to ARP while you're at it.

 

I'm pretty sure teh head and or block is warped though, so it'll be a total rebuild...

 

Pull the head and check the surfaces before you decide they're warped. You might get lucky and just need a $40 mill on the head.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91SiZ6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pull the head and check the surfaces before you decide they're warped. You might get lucky and just need a $40 mill on the head.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh I definately will, this motor will be rebuilt one way or another. Either a stock rebuild for me, a full all-motor build for me, or a stock rebuild for my friend's first gen 87 CRX.
I'll probably pull the head off at some point in the near future and see if i can mill the head and slap on a new gasket without taking it out of the car, then wait till i get a new motor to pull it out for my friends 1G