I notice when I am driving on the freeway and have to make a stop, the wheel literally shakes real bad, nack and forth..What is causing this?

Just had breaks done 3 months ago. I also have cross-drilled, etc.

Thanks

Rob

 

Warped Rotors would be my guess.

 

wheel balance? but most prob rotors

 

maybe alingment, have you had one of these in while?

 

Alignment, maybe...could it be bushings?

 

alignment, tierod ends, wheel bearings, or steering rack

 

happened to me before. either get new rotors and brake pads or get your rotors resurfaced with new pads. goodluck!!!

 

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm

 

cross drilled rotors suck.

and i have seen warped disks, rotors worn down past the "grid" and they are VERY warped with no questions




[Modified by Sabastian, 9:16 AM 5/3/2002]

 

It is funny how quickly we all forget that warped rotors are mainly just a myth although I have seen them before the rotors looked like this ) seriously the car would not move at all. It was on a suburban

 

my guess is warped rotors too. mine did the same thing. it would shake at any braking above 55mph. i got brembo blanks, and no probs

 

like we all discussed before, no such thing as warped rotor, you did not break in the pads correctly

 

well there is such thing as a warped rotor I have seen one before. I dunno how it happened but the rotors looked like this ( ) seriously it was horrible the whole thing looked like it had been compressed

 

I think I figured it out. It is actualy my motor mounts. They look very bad, one is actually broken. The car is now constantly moving all over the road, once i hit 55 or over. Mounts or bushings, man do I have a job ahead of me..

Rob

 

broken mounts would not make the sterring wheel vibrate and or jerk, ive broken many mounts, your pads wer not boken in correctly

 

Should I replace the pads and rotors, or just the pads?

 

well, how long have you had the rotors?

if they are not that worn down you can jsut have them resurfaced and get new pads

 

This is my story: When I first got the car, one of the front rotors was cracked. I was using stock rotors and cheap-**** raybestors pads at the time. I was not sure whether those pads were broken in right or not. I had the rotors replaced with Brembo blanks, but didnt replace the pads until a little later. The shaking came back soon after. I replaced the pads with PBR units. I thought I broke them in ok, but the shaking percisted.

This is my theory: Since this is a very very very common problem with these cars, it cannot possibly be the result of poorly bedded pads or warped rotors in every case.

This is my plan of action: This weekend, I will be doing some brake work. 1. New Brembo blank REARS. 2. Hawk HPS pads on all 4 wheels. 3. Goodrich SS 6 line kit. 4. Valvoline synthetic fluid.
If the vibration percists, I will replace my tie rod (ends). If it still shakes, I will replace my front rotors once again, and hopefully have the problem pinned down.

 

Wont Be Beat may be right...th eTie Rod ends may be lose or worn out. I have been lowered for 4+ years now. I will also replace the pads. Put some NISSIN pads, and keep my Brembos.

Thanks for the replys!! Helped out alot!!!

Rob

 

I am almost positive that with new rotors, pads, tie rods, and proper bedding, it will be just fine. My fingers are crossed.

 

Took this pic of my rotors a few days ago. I put these rotors on in December.
Braking is still rock solid. Steering wheel is rock solid. Despite the way the look I am having zero brake issues. I won't use these rotors on the track again though, I'm gonna put on my spare set of brembo blanks before the next event.

 

Yikes.

 

Oh i guess my point is rotors can be real shitty but not give any problems. I think most braking problems that shake the steering wheel at high speeds are due to uneven deposits of pad material on the rotor's surface. A warped rotor will shake the wheel even at 5 mph.

 

My power slot rotors look almost like that not as bad and they have been on for three years, I picked up a set of knuckle/spindle/hubs, or whatever you want to call them, $40 a side, from the local junk yard.

wont be beat/ I to thought that my brakes were fugged up, jack up the front end of the car and see if there is any play front to back on either wheel, if there is, it is probably a tie rod end or steering rack problem.

 

Try using some fine sandpaper on your rotors and see if that solves the problem. I'm thinking the uneven distribution of pad material onto the rotor theory, as well. If that doesn't cure it, may as well get another set of rotArs.