Camber kit? Which one?
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From: Yeah IM from Jersey, big wup, wanna fight about, it, USA
Did a search, didnt really find what I wanted. I noticed a lot of different styles and companies that make them. The 3 im looking at now are the blox kit, the skunk2, and omni. Ive also seen 2 different styles that blox and skunk2 offer, here are some pics:
Type 1 Blox

Type 2 Blox

Type 1 Skunk2

Type 2 Skunk2

Omni

One more thing... does it matter if I get the ones with the brace and bushings or not? My car has 125k miles on it if that makes a difference. Thanks for the help.
Type 1 Blox

Type 2 Blox

Type 1 Skunk2

Type 2 Skunk2
Omni

One more thing... does it matter if I get the ones with the brace and bushings or not? My car has 125k miles on it if that makes a difference. Thanks for the help.
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
The "Type 1" you showed is for 96-00 Civics only. The "Type 2" ones with the brace and Omnis you posted are for 92-95 Civics and 95-01 Integras.
Interesting, all 3 of those companies products look pretty much exactly the same, although it appears the Skunk2 ones might have just a touch more clearance above the adjustable ball joint than the Blox of Omnis.
Now I should also ask what are your current camber readings? If less than -2 degrees I would say don't even bother with it, unless you want to be able to adjust in more negative camber for race day or something. I was running -2.5 for years without any camber kits, no major problems.
Interesting, all 3 of those companies products look pretty much exactly the same, although it appears the Skunk2 ones might have just a touch more clearance above the adjustable ball joint than the Blox of Omnis.
Now I should also ask what are your current camber readings? If less than -2 degrees I would say don't even bother with it, unless you want to be able to adjust in more negative camber for race day or something. I was running -2.5 for years without any camber kits, no major problems.
Assuming by your name, you have a GSR...and by the color its a DC2. So I am going to say you want type2. I would go with skunk2, due to the updated top plate for camber adjustments
I would buy the spare brand new camber kit I have for sale. I have seen alot of the above break with that design, its up to you, but the only company I trust is Ingalls as far as modifying/fixing camber issues.
Ingalls 35720 camberkit for $100 shipped.
Ingalls 35720 camberkit for $100 shipped.
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From: Yeah IM from Jersey, big wup, wanna fight about, it, USA
thanks guys, heres another question now, whats the difference between this blox and the one with the brace? what does that brace do? should i just buck up and get the more expensive one?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ragejed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Assuming by your name, you have a GSR...and by the color its a DC2. So I am going to say you want type2. I would go with skunk2, due to the updated top plate for camber adjustments</TD></TR></TABLE>
and yes u are very observant 98 GSR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ragejed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Assuming by your name, you have a GSR...and by the color its a DC2. So I am going to say you want type2. I would go with skunk2, due to the updated top plate for camber adjustments</TD></TR></TABLE>
and yes u are very observant 98 GSR
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SupersonicBlueGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks guys, heres another question now, whats the difference between this blox and the one with the brace? what does that brace do? should i just buck up and get the more expensive one?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
the one you pictured there uses the stock upper control arm bolts with brace. The other one just has it all included with new parts so you don't have to swap out any original parts.
It's really just a matter of whether you want all new parts or want to swap out some of the parts you have now. The one with all new bolts and brace will obviously go in much faster. Unbolt the old, bolt in the new, done.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
the one you pictured there uses the stock upper control arm bolts with brace. The other one just has it all included with new parts so you don't have to swap out any original parts.
It's really just a matter of whether you want all new parts or want to swap out some of the parts you have now. The one with all new bolts and brace will obviously go in much faster. Unbolt the old, bolt in the new, done.
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From: Yeah IM from Jersey, big wup, wanna fight about, it, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the one you pictured there uses the stock upper control arm bolts with brace. The other one just has it all included with new parts so you don't have to swap out any original parts.
It's really just a matter of whether you want all new parts or want to swap out some of the parts you have now. The one with all new bolts and brace will obviously go in much faster. Unbolt the old, bolt in the new, done. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Word... thanks all. my friend actually just emailed me and said he has an extra set of this kind of camber kit:

so im gonna try that out first
It's really just a matter of whether you want all new parts or want to swap out some of the parts you have now. The one with all new bolts and brace will obviously go in much faster. Unbolt the old, bolt in the new, done. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Word... thanks all. my friend actually just emailed me and said he has an extra set of this kind of camber kit:

so im gonna try that out first
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SupersonicBlueGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Word... thanks all. my friend actually just emailed me and said he has an extra set of this kind of camber kit:

so im gonna try that out first </TD></TR></TABLE>
good luck with that, hope the upper control arms don't smash the seam on the inner fender.
But do you REALLY need a camber kit at all? Are you slammed so low that you have more than -3 deg. camber? Perhaps you just need the car aligned so the toe is set to the correct specs and won't wear out the tires as bad.

so im gonna try that out first </TD></TR></TABLE>
good luck with that, hope the upper control arms don't smash the seam on the inner fender.
But do you REALLY need a camber kit at all? Are you slammed so low that you have more than -3 deg. camber? Perhaps you just need the car aligned so the toe is set to the correct specs and won't wear out the tires as bad.
I'm planning to get a camber kit also for my integra but iono which 1 to get. Im planning to get the skunk2 type 1 u show up there but i wonder if that is good enough or do i need more stuff along with it. thanks
assuming you have oem wheels, if you have it lowered to the point where there's approximately a 1" gap between the top of the tire and your fender, you might want to consider the control arm type camber kit for a bit more adjustability. the ingalls camber kit your friends has doesn't have a range as wide as the control arm types (by 1 degree iirc). the blox camber kits will do fine plus they're cheaper. i've driven about 4000 miles and took my car to an autocross a few months ago and i haven't noticed anything weird. however, i hear you might want to get better ball joints as the ones that come with skunk2 and blox are supposedly cheap. so far i have had no problems so i haven't touched them since the middle of summer.
I've had the Ingalls in the Front only for the last 4 years and no problems. The Front camber with the Ingalls kit right now is only -1.2 and the back has -1.7 without a camber kit. But go with what you can afford, but I'd say go with the Skunk2.
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by magicaltrout »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">assuming you have oem wheels, if you have it lowered to the point where there's approximately a 1" gap between the top of the tire and your fender, you might want to consider the control arm type camber kit for a bit more adjustability. the ingalls camber kit your friends has doesn't have a range as wide as the control arm types (by 1 degree iirc). the blox camber kits will do fine plus they're cheaper. i've driven about 4000 miles and took my car to an autocross a few months ago and i haven't noticed anything weird. however, i hear you might want to get better ball joints as the ones that come with skunk2 and blox are supposedly cheap. so far i have had no problems so i haven't touched them since the middle of summer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had no gap between my tires and fenders when I was on Ground Controls, no camber kit and tire wear was minimal.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by juda7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've had the Ingalls in the Front only for the last 4 years and no problems. The Front camber with the Ingalls kit right now is only -1.2 and the back has -1.7 without a camber kit. But go with what you can afford, but I'd say go with the Skunk2. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If it were me I would dial those front ones in to about -2. The car will handle better.
I had no gap between my tires and fenders when I was on Ground Controls, no camber kit and tire wear was minimal.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by juda7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've had the Ingalls in the Front only for the last 4 years and no problems. The Front camber with the Ingalls kit right now is only -1.2 and the back has -1.7 without a camber kit. But go with what you can afford, but I'd say go with the Skunk2. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If it were me I would dial those front ones in to about -2. The car will handle better.
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From: Yeah IM from Jersey, big wup, wanna fight about, it, USA
well i know i need a camber kit cuz my last set of tires wore uneven about an inch or so from the inside of the tire, and now my new ones are doing the same. i installed the rear and had that adjusted and aligned. when i got it back for the shop they said that they couldnt adjust it anymore without using a kit.
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SupersonicBlueGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i know i need a camber kit cuz my last set of tires wore uneven about an inch or so from the inside of the tire, and now my new ones are doing the same. i installed the rear and had that adjusted and aligned. when i got it back for the shop they said that they couldnt adjust it anymore without using a kit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You just need to get the toe adjust to spec. Excessive toe-out (probably what you have if the inner edge is wearing out) wears tires much faster than negative camber.
You just need to get the toe adjust to spec. Excessive toe-out (probably what you have if the inner edge is wearing out) wears tires much faster than negative camber.
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