2000 v6 accord drop kit install help
Well i finaly orderd my G/f drop kit drop zone 2in... iWas wondering how hard of an install it is on that year accord.,.. any body can give me a walk thro? thaks
Modified by eagleclawracing at 1:28 AM 10/12/2006
Modified by eagleclawracing at 1:28 AM 10/12/2006
With patience and maybe a helping hand, it's not a hard install at all. A Haynes manual is fairly cheap and it provides enough information to safely do the install. Rent a spring compressor from AutoZone (full refund when you return it).
I've done 4 suspension installs on 6th gen Accords, and each time I did it by myself with only your standard tools and spring compressor. When you rent the spring compressor, make sure you have a socket large enough to fit it.
I've done 4 suspension installs on 6th gen Accords, and each time I did it by myself with only your standard tools and spring compressor. When you rent the spring compressor, make sure you have a socket large enough to fit it.
WEll i have the drop its a 2.5 drop zone and its installed
Here are some pics


http://i3.photobucket.com/albu...5.jpg
Here are some pics


http://i3.photobucket.com/albu...5.jpg
How did the install go for you?
You'll want to get a camber it, front and rear. I have Neuspeed Sports, which lowers the car 1.8 fr and 1.7 rr. As of right now, I only have a rear camber kit, because that's all I thought I needed. My front camber is at 1* of camber or less, and toe is set to 0. The problem is, however, that when the wheels are turned, the camber causes the toe to change drastically, which in turn is causing a crazy amount of toe wear on the inside edges of my front tires. The innermost edge (1 inch worth) is completely bald, while the rest of the tire is fine. I had to get the tires switched left to right to give myself some more time before I'm forced to buy new tires.
The problem wasn't as noticeable when I had the stock rims and tires on. But with the current tires (wider w/ lower profile, at 215/45/17), it's definitely a problem. A front camber kit should fix most, if not all, of the problem.
You'll want to get a camber it, front and rear. I have Neuspeed Sports, which lowers the car 1.8 fr and 1.7 rr. As of right now, I only have a rear camber kit, because that's all I thought I needed. My front camber is at 1* of camber or less, and toe is set to 0. The problem is, however, that when the wheels are turned, the camber causes the toe to change drastically, which in turn is causing a crazy amount of toe wear on the inside edges of my front tires. The innermost edge (1 inch worth) is completely bald, while the rest of the tire is fine. I had to get the tires switched left to right to give myself some more time before I'm forced to buy new tires.
The problem wasn't as noticeable when I had the stock rims and tires on. But with the current tires (wider w/ lower profile, at 215/45/17), it's definitely a problem. A front camber kit should fix most, if not all, of the problem.
Boat drop? you probly thinkin of the diffrent sizes of tires im runnin thats why it looks like that in the front its a 225/45/17 rear 245/50/17
i installed the drop my self it wasnt to bad just tryin to get the front to set on the strut right...
What could be causing wired clankin noise from the rear right suspension?
i installed the drop my self it wasnt to bad just tryin to get the front to set on the strut right...
What could be causing wired clankin noise from the rear right suspension?
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Did you use a jack to raise the suspension to a normal drive height before torqueing the bolts down? If not, some clanking may occur. An old friend of mine didn't do it, but after I loosened and then retorqued them with the suspension jacked up, the clanking went away. I never pinpointed exactly where it was coming from though.
Naw im pretty sure the jack was in the air but when i hit on the spring it makes a clank noise you think its just loose?
It's hard to say without actually looking at it or hearing it in person. On my friend's car I was thinking it was the sway bar endlinks, but I never really tried to narrow it down.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philadd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you use a jack to raise the suspension to a normal drive height before torqueing the bolts down? If not, some clanking may occur. An old friend of mine didn't do it, but after I loosened and then retorqued them with the suspension jacked up, the clanking went away. I never pinpointed exactly where it was coming from though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Care to elaborate on that? Mine is clakning like a **** and when I had my coilovers installed there was soo much room left over I had to use washers.
Are you saying jack up your car and then jack up the suspensiont o normal height and then torque it down? If so, wouldnt that be the same as torqueing down after the car is flat on the ground?
Care to elaborate on that? Mine is clakning like a **** and when I had my coilovers installed there was soo much room left over I had to use washers.
Are you saying jack up your car and then jack up the suspensiont o normal height and then torque it down? If so, wouldnt that be the same as torqueing down after the car is flat on the ground?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Legendaryyaj »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Care to elaborate on that? Mine is clakning like a **** and when I had my coilovers installed there was soo much room left over I had to use washers.
Are you saying jack up your car and then jack up the suspensiont o normal height and then torque it down? If so, wouldnt that be the same as torqueing down after the car is flat on the ground?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, you have it right. But with the car flat on the ground, you would obviously have to have the wheel back on, which gets in the way. With the car on the ground, you're also limiting how much space you have to work with. If you torque everything down with the car raised and the suspension at full droop, the bushings tend to twist once the car is back on the ground, which in turn can cause clanking/banging sounds. For the swaybar endlinks, the swaybar really just needs to be in some kind of rest position. In other words, either both rear wheels in the air, or on the ground. Doing this should eliminate most, if not all, of the clanking.
EDIT: There are some noises that can be caused by the new suspension itself. For example, if you don't have the rubber insulator that goes around the top coils, the spring can make noises when it compresses and makes contact with the top hat. Many people with the pillowball mounts (like Tein's offerings) complain about excessive noise as well.
Care to elaborate on that? Mine is clakning like a **** and when I had my coilovers installed there was soo much room left over I had to use washers.
Are you saying jack up your car and then jack up the suspensiont o normal height and then torque it down? If so, wouldnt that be the same as torqueing down after the car is flat on the ground?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, you have it right. But with the car flat on the ground, you would obviously have to have the wheel back on, which gets in the way. With the car on the ground, you're also limiting how much space you have to work with. If you torque everything down with the car raised and the suspension at full droop, the bushings tend to twist once the car is back on the ground, which in turn can cause clanking/banging sounds. For the swaybar endlinks, the swaybar really just needs to be in some kind of rest position. In other words, either both rear wheels in the air, or on the ground. Doing this should eliminate most, if not all, of the clanking.
EDIT: There are some noises that can be caused by the new suspension itself. For example, if you don't have the rubber insulator that goes around the top coils, the spring can make noises when it compresses and makes contact with the top hat. Many people with the pillowball mounts (like Tein's offerings) complain about excessive noise as well.
Yea thanks for all the help i really hadent had time to get online this weekend or mess wither her car me and her went out of town to a car show
front still looks kinda high, i have a 2.25 inch drop on my 2000 coupe with 18's and it sits lower than that in the front but the back is bout the same.
We did Break up...For about three Months... the day i went to get all my parts of her car lol we worked things out and we are Engadged lol..She truly is a honda girl
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