Hello all,

Instead of putting out $ for a rebuild I've decided to use Engine Restorer in an effort to reduce oil burning from blow-by. I just did a fresh oil change and added restorer additive. [and i know many think Restore is a waste of time and money]


I've read this one particular story which apparently has been floating around the web for years.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=347130

After reading it i decided that I'd try the same application with Restorer instead of CD-2. I'm going to try to avoid breaking 35 mph for about 50 miles or so. I'm hoping that this would give the additive a chance to work. Running the engine hard will create blow by. Then the additive will be burned out. Also gas from the combustion chamber will contaminate the oil and make it dirty. I imagine the restore additive will have a better chance of working with clean oil as opposed to dirty.

 

i tried the same stuff you are talking about i had no luck i wouldnt rebuild i would swap

 

thanks for responding, 89.
If i do a swap it wont be for a while yet. I gotta say that besides a bit of an increase in oil burning the cars now runnning as good as when i bought it if not better.

My situation might differ a bit from yours. I wasn't burning lots of oil until quite recently when I
1 desludged the engine with an effective cleaner (noticeable difference!)
2 put in a badly needed tranny (another noticeable difference)

We'll see i guess.

 

i understand you pain on the swap thing i had to borrow money to do my swap you should do a vacumn test and a leak down test to determine why you car is smoking

 

Thanks again.
But I'm quite certain it's worn rings.

 

if its worn rings i can guarantee you you are wasting your time with the engine restorer crap

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skate1968 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hello all,

Instead of putting out $ for a rebuild I've decided to use Engine Restorer in an effort to reduce oil burning from blow-by. I just did a fresh oil change and added restorer additive. [and i know many think Restore is a waste of time and money]


I've read this one particular story which apparently has been floating around the web for years.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=347130

After reading it i decided that I'd try the same application with Restorer instead of CD-2. I'm going to try to avoid breaking 35 mph for about 50 miles or so. I'm hoping that this would give the additive a chance to work. Running the engine hard will create blow by. Then the additive will be burned out. Also gas from the combustion chamber will contaminate the oil and make it dirty. I imagine the restore additive will have a better chance of working with clean oil as opposed to dirty.</TD></TR></TABLE>
http://www.partsamerica.com/Pr...00011
this is indeed a miracle worker

i have my own experience with this stuff and it works great. My car would smoke quite a bit when idling for too long but after using this stuff NO MORE smoke. It truely is a great product. I never heard the rule 35 mph for the first 50 miles but i went up to 90 after i put this stuff in. 9/12/06 127,828 is when i poured that stuff in and as of today it has 128,500. However in a week i might see it smoke once or twice but my smoking did stop significantly. Not only did it help with smoke but my mpg went up and i noticed more power. I got a 3mpg(34) increase :-)

 

ic ur topic but i was just wondering would it be bad to use 10w 40 on a 2nd gen ls motor? plus i just got my rex fixedand for some odd reason its shacking like crazy. oyea do anyone have stock front and back crx bumper?

dat ef life man

 

Just put somw 90w in it. That will stop it from burnin smoke.

On a side note. Just get some 50 dollar rings or get a new motor which are prctacally free for a d series and swap it out.

 

"On a side note. Just get some 50 dollar rings or get a new motor which are prctacally free for a d series and swap it out. "

Thanks

But I don't have the skill to do this myself nor do i want to spend the $$$ to have someone else do it. I understand that it will cost a good few bucks even if you hire a reasonable mechanic.


I purchased a used transmission from a jdm shop outside of Manhattan. That swap was both inexpensive and a great improvement. So yes in the future i might do a swap. But right now i don't have the cash.

 

Have you tried the "higher mileage" motor oil? I am using Castrol and it has helped with my oil leaks/consumption. Also have you replaced the PCV valve? I cleaned mine and f'ed it up and my oil consumption went way up and it was smoking.

Two things to try that are cheap to do. Give them a try!

 

Thanks Smogman,
(i feel like that should be my name)
i've already replaced the PCV. And i might do the high mileage oil, depending on how this works.

I did a little reading about blowby. Apparently not only does oil get burned but unburnt gas also mixes with the fuel. This apparently causes the oil to thin. This would also partially explain why I seem to burn older oil faster than new.

It seems that topping off with super heavy oil and more shorter OCIs might help my problem.

 

definitely work on the swap

It is much better and you will spend less than a rebuild.

why put money in to end up at the beginning

keep all the old parts cuz you wont find most of them again should you need them

 

"Have you tried the "higher mileage" motor oil? I am using Castrol and it has helped with my oil leaks/consumption. Also have you replaced the PCV valve? I cleaned mine and f'ed it up and my oil consumption went way up and it was smoking."

does that really work??

i just bought a crx, it has a 2nd gen Ls motor .bought like that... was that stupid for me to have done?? iono but now im left with the dirt and i gotta get that **** to pass REF .. are there anyone in daygo that can give me a good deal to pass this ref

 

i want stock front and back bumper for CRX!!!!!

 

That garbage is a gimmick.

The only solution for you is a rebuild. There is no magical liquid that can save an oil burning engine.

It's common sense. Any liquid you put in an oil burning engine will burn. It might slow down the burning, but for how long? A week?

Save your money.

 

is engine restorer really thick and just makes your oil thick? or is it that stuff that is just like water that makes your oil thin as hell and doesnt actually do anything.. i mean i can see that additive that makes your oil thick actually stop from burning so much but its just like putting super thick oil in your car.. just a waste of time unless you plan on swapping motors in the future.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ivan1985 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That garbage is a gimmick.

The only solution for you is a rebuild. There is no magical liquid that can save an oil burning engine.

It's common sense. Any liquid you put in an oil burning engine will burn. It might slow down the burning, but for how long? A week?

Save your money.</TD></TR></TABLE>
700 miles/a month so far.....oil on my dipstick barely went down and only saw it smoke a few times in the past month. before engine restore i saw smoke at almost every red light. This stuff really works.....................
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by janz3n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is engine restorer really thick and just makes your oil thick? or is it that stuff that is just like water that makes your oil thin as hell and doesnt actually do anything.. i mean i can see that additive that makes your oil thick actually stop from burning so much but its just like putting super thick oil in your car.. just a waste of time unless you plan on swapping motors in the future.</TD></TR></TABLE>
its pretty thick. The liquid is blue and you can actually see additives the size of a grain of a salt. What this stuff does is seal your walls so that oil doesnt leak through. Its only 6.50 a can, it doesnt hurt to try.

 

ya thats true it doesnt hurt to try... aslong as you can affored to replace your engine if it doesnt work. you probably couldnt stop using the stuff.

 

I found that this article seems to further explain why oil consumption in my 91 civic is often erratic. I believe that anyone with lots of blowby would benefit from reading this article.

3) The oil becomes fuel diluted with raw gasoline. Gas does not lubricate and an oil filter does not filter-out gas. Gas goes right through undeterred. An oil filter is designed to filter out particulate matter only. Cars that are driven mainly in the city with a lot of low-speed driving, a lot of traffic lights, and do a lot of idling tend to put a lot more unburned gas into the oil. It is common for cars to burn a considerable amount of oil because it has become fuel diluted, reducing its ability to lubricate. Then, because the thinned-out oil cannot seal as well, it will let even more unburned fuel and contaminates past the rings, and more of the oil will burn away. The gas being introduced will sometimes take the 'place' of the oil, and when you look on your dipstick, you see that it is 'full'. This will lead some to believe that their car does not burn oil.

Then, in this example, say you take this car on a 75 mile highway trip and when you get there, you check the oil only to find out that it is 2 or more quarts low! This concerns you, because the car has never burned oil before. So you add a couple of quarts, putting good clean gasoline-free motor oil in its place with nice and new robust additives. You drive home the 75 miles at a little slower speeds because you are concerned about the oil loss. When you get home, you are fully expecting to see a 2 quart loss. But you are surprised to see that it is still on the full mark! So now you are confused. Many will blame the brand of oil, the shop who did the change by installing the 'cheapo' house brand, and some will just scratch their heads in wonderment. Fuel dilution is the culprit. In reality, the fresh oil helped to seal well, lubricate better and prevent excess oil loss.


http://www.boss302.com/oil.htm

 

im def giving it a try

 

that engine restore stuff does work just depends on how bad off your motor is.