HELP me fix my brakes.
I just recieved my wheel cyliders, since my rear is leaking. I'm also getting a MC on Saturday. My brakes are sucking, when I'm at a light they don't sink all the way to the floor, but its annoying and dangerous. I was quoted $500 dollars to fix the brakes and I'm tired of paying for **** I can do myself.
My questions.. How difficult is this process? I've replaced my radiator before I had to go to work last summer so I have some ability. I know I have to bleed my system after everything is done. Bench bleed the MC?
Tools needed: (filly in what I'm missing)
Honda Chilton
Speed bleeders( I dont know anyone that would help in the process)
Brake fluid(not sure how much needed)
Wheel Cylinders(both)
Master Cylinder
I'm not sure what tools I need to take off my drum and actually take the leaking WC off yet.
My questions.. How difficult is this process? I've replaced my radiator before I had to go to work last summer so I have some ability. I know I have to bleed my system after everything is done. Bench bleed the MC?
Tools needed: (filly in what I'm missing)
Honda Chilton
Speed bleeders( I dont know anyone that would help in the process)
Brake fluid(not sure how much needed)
Wheel Cylinders(both)
Master Cylinder
I'm not sure what tools I need to take off my drum and actually take the leaking WC off yet.
Time for brake 101...
To get the rear drums off you should just be able to wiggle them off, if not a rubber mallet(Used lightly)
To make it easier you can remove the axle nut and pull off the hub.(Makes accessing the springs easier but not necessary)
Pull the springs off (Do one side at a time so you have an example of how it goes back together)
The pads should be off now, so the next step id to loosen the brake line and remove the bolt holding the cylinder on. I would fill the wheel cylinder with a little brake fluid and bolt it back on and reverse these steps.
I hope you are doing a pad replacement too. So if you have new pads you need to screw the adjuster nut in(It is the piece that has the star adjusting nut on it)
Now you are ready to slide back on the drum. You don't want to force it and it should spin smoothly a slight,(and I mean slight) drag is ok when you spin it. But just off the drum is where you want to adjust it to.
Don't forget to grease the spots where to pads rest on the backing plate and you should be good to go. It is a normal brake set-up so it should be easy.
Follow the manual's directions to bleed the brakes I believe it is RR LF then LR RF.
need anymore help I will be back on Monday.
To get the rear drums off you should just be able to wiggle them off, if not a rubber mallet(Used lightly)
To make it easier you can remove the axle nut and pull off the hub.(Makes accessing the springs easier but not necessary)
Pull the springs off (Do one side at a time so you have an example of how it goes back together)
The pads should be off now, so the next step id to loosen the brake line and remove the bolt holding the cylinder on. I would fill the wheel cylinder with a little brake fluid and bolt it back on and reverse these steps.
I hope you are doing a pad replacement too. So if you have new pads you need to screw the adjuster nut in(It is the piece that has the star adjusting nut on it)
Now you are ready to slide back on the drum. You don't want to force it and it should spin smoothly a slight,(and I mean slight) drag is ok when you spin it. But just off the drum is where you want to adjust it to.
Don't forget to grease the spots where to pads rest on the backing plate and you should be good to go. It is a normal brake set-up so it should be easy.
Follow the manual's directions to bleed the brakes I believe it is RR LF then LR RF.
need anymore help I will be back on Monday.
Good job ,But the rear has shoes.Also the bleeding sequence is just a tad off,RR-LR-RF-LF.It's the farthest to to the closest to the master cylinder.
I don't mean any disrespect! Being you work at a dealer, but being a dual system don't you have to do them each seperate as in rr lf which is one part and the other is lr rf.
This is so if you lose one half the other will still stop the car.
While you are doing the lr after the rr you would be pumping air back into the rr.
I guess if you are using a brake bleeder it would not matter. I always do it the two person method myself.
This is so if you lose one half the other will still stop the car.
While you are doing the lr after the rr you would be pumping air back into the rr.
I guess if you are using a brake bleeder it would not matter. I always do it the two person method myself.
are u going to do all four brakes or just the rears? sounds like the rears...wheel cylinders are pretty simple...just two bolts, brake line and it shoud come out...but if yours rears SHOES are gone u need to replace those and thats a little harder but very easy to do. u don't need pads for the rears but brake shoes since its drums. do one side at a time so u know how things are put in place. u just gotta remove some hold down pins, spring, and some clips and it basically comes apart.
as for the MC...should be simple for our cars, two bolts. suck up the fluid from reservior, remove brake lines, and two bolts. should come right out. remember u might want to bench bleed the MC...bench bleeding is jsut to get all the air out of the MC before installing it on car...not necessary but faster instead of doing it on the car and at all wheels....you're gonna have to bleed the brakes after doing the rears but it'll be faster if u bench bleed.
as for the MC...should be simple for our cars, two bolts. suck up the fluid from reservior, remove brake lines, and two bolts. should come right out. remember u might want to bench bleed the MC...bench bleeding is jsut to get all the air out of the MC before installing it on car...not necessary but faster instead of doing it on the car and at all wheels....you're gonna have to bleed the brakes after doing the rears but it'll be faster if u bench bleed.
as for tools if you have most hand tools all you will need extra is a set of metric line wrenches, i bought a 4pc set with a different sizes for $10 , get the line wrenches so you dont strip the heads on the lines
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u mean to do the rear brakes? master cylinder?
rear brakes depending on skills should take about 45 minutes...if not less. if u don't know anything then take your time and it'll be longer.. master cylinder about same time. bleeding the brakes might take longer cuz u got to do all four
rear brakes depending on skills should take about 45 minutes...if not less. if u don't know anything then take your time and it'll be longer.. master cylinder about same time. bleeding the brakes might take longer cuz u got to do all four
^ I started my brakes today, but ran into a problem. My damn brake line nuts that are attached to the master cylinder are really stuck on there. It's never been replaced, I kinda stripped one of the nuts but there is still some tread left. I was using a 7/16 cescent wrench and it still stipped it. What size fits this nut 10mm? or is it metric?
I bought a pair of monkey wrench pliers, but I didn't want to go to work on it because I didn't know if I could replace thoes nuts or not. Any suggestions?
I bought a pair of monkey wrench pliers, but I didn't want to go to work on it because I didn't know if I could replace thoes nuts or not. Any suggestions?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Seatown »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^ I started my brakes today, but ran into a problem. My damn brake line nuts that are attached to the master cylinder are really stuck on there. It's never been replaced, I kinda stripped one of the nuts but there is still some tread left. I was using a 7/16 cescent wrench and it still stipped it. What size fits this nut 10mm? or is it metric?
I bought a pair of monkey wrench pliers, but I didn't want to go to work on it because I didn't know if I could replace thoes nuts or not. Any suggestions?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I used a 10mm wrench to get the lines out of my MC.
I bought a pair of monkey wrench pliers, but I didn't want to go to work on it because I didn't know if I could replace thoes nuts or not. Any suggestions?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I used a 10mm wrench to get the lines out of my MC.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Seatown »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^ damn I new it. So what if I can't get the one nut off that is slightly stripped with the 10mm? Should I use the monkey wrench or what?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you mean vice grips? Then I'd replace that line if I were you.
Do you mean vice grips? Then I'd replace that line if I were you.
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