Hey guys I just got my aem cold air intake and apexi super ground sytem installed on my 06 habbie red si yesterday for which i was very excited for.So i left the shop anxious to feel the power gains and at that moment i immidiately felt better throttle response and the power when vtec is engaged is very pronounced which made me say wow.Now as soon as I got to my first stop light i noticed vibration on the steering wheel and the foot pedals, at that moment my bubble was bursted. I drove home thinking it was gonna go away but it remained. I opened the hood and observed the engine and what i saw made me very sad, my engine idles fine for about 10 to 15 seconds and then the idle drops to the point where the engine stumbles a bit and then recovers.I went back to the shop and they told me it may or may not go away! THEY weren't sure if the ecu is a learner or not meaning a self adjusting ecu. they went on and told me to drive it over the weekend to see how car behaves and give them a call on monday, by then they should have more information on my ecu.this sucks so bad.But they did tell me that they stand behind ther work and won't leave me alone on this.IF this issue persists the aem cai is coming off and going back to stock then comptech ice box.


Has anybody else experienced this with their aem cai?

Is this normal for a freshly installed cai?

any feedback will be greatly appreciated
thanks in advanced

 

yes. i also have AEM CAI and have been having the exact same problems as you. i've had it for 2 months now and still has a lil idle problem but has not got worse or CEL's... i really want to get rid of the rough idle but i geuss i got use to it that i bareley notice it sometimes.

 

have u heard any info more on this

 

i have a non si aem cai but i havnt noticed vibrations or on the foot pedal , as for the idling what you mean? like when you step on gas let it go and all sudden just goes down? if so then everyone says its normal cuz of the dbw sytem on hondas... but again i could be wrong what you mean by idling? u guys got lucky i had cel pop up on me ... i cleard it once then drove it later on days came back on cleard it didnt drive it for days drove it today and no cel ....

 

I have a AEM CAI in my si.
Hopefully when your CAI was installed,
your negative wire wasn't attached to
the car's battery. For doing that, it should
reset the car's air flow so that the engine can
adapt to the new air flow from the intake
(I was told this)

Another situation I had was when the hose
between the CAI intake and the intake manifold
wasn't connecting the two completely which then
I resecured the CAI intake and everything was
fine and dandy.

And since draining some coolant was part of the
CAI installation, check if you have coolant between
the lines.

My advice, check if everything is plugged in right
and check if the air flow sensor to the CAI intake
is OK.

 

now that you mention it , i did NOT unplug the battery from the negivitive , cuz i couldnt find my anti theft code , am i screwd???? what can i do about it? scanner picked up P0171 2 times 1 of them was on bank 1 but i dont know if 2nd was on bank 2 or what not ....

 

Honestly, I don't know.
My friend who also has an si,
he bought the fujita short ram and
in the manual, it says to take the
battery out. That's pretty much
like saying to disconnect the negative
wire from the battery in the AEM CAI
instructions.

 

just disconnect it now and let is sit for a few and it will still reset itself its not like you had to do it at the exact point in time u put the cai on. u can also call honda and get your security code

 

i had that issue with my Evo...with the HKS racing suction...it went away after a few days of driving. My first suggestion would be to unplug the battery and reset the computer...hopefully it will "learn" to like the new intake!

 

Same thing here. I have had the AEM CAI for almost 3K miles. My idle is also a bit rougher than it was before. I can feel the vibration in the wheel, but it has never stalled, nor has it gotten any worse.

I had the new factory reflash done after the CAI was installed. The reflash seem to improve the idle a bit, but it is definitely still rougher than stock.

I just figured it was a necessary evil of the modification.

 

The Hondata reflash should help this. The factory reflash was just an update for a stock honda. The Hondata reflash was made for people with an aftermarket intake or an aftermarket exhaust.

 

Well according to one of the replies here, it states that you have to drain pull a coolant line off. Well if that's the case, I'd bleed out the cooling system. Chances are, an air pocket in the cooling system can idle fluctuations, especially in older hondas.. As for the new ones, I haven't come across any idle fluctuation issues yet. But I do have one word of caution, mass air flow sensors and after market air intake systems don't very well together. I'd prefer to buy the more expensive intakes just to make sure the piping diameter is correct. A smaller air intake diameter can trick the ecu cause rich codes..

 

yeah i have noticed this too. gulp.......... i knew if i got one thing it would lead to another ..... and another........ i can deal with the shaking on the throttle but the steering wheel i cant. i might switch to a ice box

 

call up your dealership, give him the VIN number so you can get your radio code. It's that simple. Then disconenct the negative from the battery and plug it back in. Reset the code for your radio and you're done...
you should stay away from aem cai though...many si owners have been having problems since last summer...

 

r18 oweners have been having issues not the si owners, and honda wont give you ur code if you give then your vin they want you to take the factory stereo out and give them the serial then they give you code, yesterday i was going to turn on my car and i always had the cel light come out note i dont drive it its mostly alone, and yesterday i would only get clicks when i turn key so low batry indication i gave it boost turn on the car and the cel went out!!!! after months of installed lol and the radio station got reset BUT it did NOT ask me to put the anti theft code, anyways what im trying to say is that the car cel went away and the only thing needed was either time or low batry so low that it wont ignitation gave it boost and powers back radio works didnt even ask code and no cel....

 

is ANYONE in this thread

located near

Advanced Engine Management, Inc.
2205 126th Street, Unit A
Hawthorne Ca. 90250

Let me know.

Thanks
- mike

 

mike im about 500 or so miles away as its in near la , 5 hrs or so , anybody else closer?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PnX-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But I do have one word of caution, mass air flow sensors and after market air intake systems don't very well together. I'd prefer to buy the more expensive intakes just to make sure the piping diameter is correct. A smaller air intake diameter can trick the ecu cause rich codes..</TD></TR></TABLE>

AEM is well known in the Subaru community as an intake to avoid because of this reason. It has the incorrect piping diameter and actually causes the WRX/STi to run quite lean and has even caused blown motors. Injen and K&N have been both shown to not affect A:F at all on Subarus but I don't know about Honda with a MAF.

Jon

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gus738 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">r18 oweners have been having issues not the si owners, and honda wont give you ur code if you give then your vin they want you to take the factory stereo out and give them the serial then they give you code, yesterday i was going to turn on my car and i always had the cel light come out note i dont drive it its mostly alone, and yesterday i would only get clicks when i turn key so low batry indication i gave it boost turn on the car and the cel went out!!!! after months of installed lol and the radio station got reset BUT it did NOT ask me to put the anti theft code, anyways what im trying to say is that the car cel went away and the only thing needed was either time or low batry so low that it wont ignitation gave it boost and powers back radio works didnt even ask code and no cel.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Your dealership should have the code on file and be more than happy to give it to you (remember, they are there to SERVE you). I lost my card with the number on it and my dealership gave me the number over the phone and even ordered me a new car w/o me asking.

Jon

 

well lucky you cuz my local ones are dicks... and are the r18 oweners ( fg1) can they have a update from honda on a reflash? whats benefits and what a cons?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gus738 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well lucky you cuz my local ones are dicks... and are the r18 oweners ( fg1) can they have a update from honda on a reflash? whats benefits and what a cons?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Go kick them in the face and tell them to give you the damn code, it is YOUR information, they are only keeping one on file if you lose it and for their techs if they do service. I would raise holy hell if my dealership was being an asshat about the code.

Jon

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaF1Fanatic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go kick them in the face and tell them to give you the damn code, it is YOUR information, they are only keeping one on file if you lose it and for their techs if they do service. I would raise holy hell if my dealership was being an asshat about the code.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would have to agree. Dealerships are there to help and serve you. You already purchased the car from them. What more do they want? They have to give you that information. If not, call corporate honda and ask them how you should deal with this situation and dealer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Striker_1818 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">call up your dealership, give him the VIN number so you can get your radio code. It's that simple. Then disconenct the negative from the battery and plug it back in. Reset the code for your radio and you're done...
you should stay away from aem cai though...many si owners have been having problems since last summer...</TD></TR></TABLE>

You cant just call any dealership with your VIN and get a radio code. You've got to have the serial number off the head-unit itself in order to get an access code. Only way to get it by VIN is call the dealer you bought the car from and hope they have kept your info easily accessible and are willing to get it for you .

As for the CAI I've always thought most AEM products were turds ... cause more problems than they're worth and ultimatley raise the risk of more serious problems - IE hydrolock, damaged MAF,

 

If you have lost your code you might want to check around your glove box, the bin and the housing to see if there is a sticker with the info you need. The dealer gets a set of stickers with the new car and they are suppose to put one around there. I have heard of them being on the door sil.

The reason why Mike asked if anyone is around that address is because of the problems AEM has been having across the board with their intakes on 06 Sis. If you have not removed the battery cables you NEED to do this. My KN tossed a cel once and had rough idle, fixed it after a 5-10 minute wait with the cable off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TRE_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You cant just call any dealership with your VIN and get a radio code. You've got to have the serial number off the head-unit itself in order to get an access code. Only way to get it by VIN is call the dealer you bought the car from and hope they have kept your info easily accessible and are willing to get it for you .
</TD></TR></TABLE>


Sorry if I didn't make this clear, I did go through the dealership that I purchased from. They keep the radio code handy for all customers and it proved very helpful for me. I can understand in a very high volume dealer where this might be difficult.

Jon