I recently put a d16a6 into my 91 civic 4dr dx auto. I swapped in only the engine and i kept my auto tranny. I'm running a pm5 ecu from the si. It is not throwing any ecu codes. Engine cranks and sputters like it wants to start. I checked my dpfi -> mpfi wiring and re-solder all the connections still the same thing. Sometimes it'll start up and run for like 5 minutes I can drive it normal then it'll normal rough. During this time if I try to gas it to rev it'll sputter and die. I checked the TPS wiring ( switched those 2 wires when doing the conversion ) everything checks out.

After each attempt I check all 4 injectors and they are getting fuel but I'm not sure if they're shooting fuel. This sounds like faulty wiring but would the ECU throw a code if the injector wiring was faulty?

I have replaced the following:
- new TPS
- new Main Relay
- new Dizzy Cap

I have also tried 3 different ECUs
PR4 gives me code 0 (faulty ecu) but runs fine on my bro's CRX w/ zc swap
PG7 gives me code 3, 7, 13
PM6 (si ecu) gives me no codes.

Has anyone else had similar problems? If you could share what your problem was and how you fixed it. At least I'll have another part to replace or check to see what's going on.

Another thing, I checked all my grounds, the thermostat housing ground is on, the tranny ground, ecu ground and valve cover grounds are all connected.


Modified by mengy007 at 9:13 PM 9/24/2006

 

anyone? I'm almost out of hope

 

*sigh* I guess I'm out of luck then

 

si ecu should be pm6

edit my bad i read the bottom part i guess u made a typo

 

make sure the plug wires are in the right order and check the spark

 

and make sure your tps and map plugs arnt swapped

 

Well I got rid of all the codes now by putting the pm6 ecu on turns out the IAT plug was got switched with the plug that was left over from the mpfi swap. Still just sputters and no start. I will recheck the ohms on the injectors. Fuel is being primed and is getting the the injectors. The injectors are just not shooting.

I know they are correct because when it starts up it will run smooth for like 5 minutes then it'll be like the tps is screwed cause if i gas it it will die and it idles like crap when this happens... I just got a new tps so maybe that'll help with something.

The single line that comes from the resistor box and connects to the 2 old yellow lines from the dx harness, is that a power line or a ground? and if it is ground could I simply run it directly to the ecu or the case ground? I'm thinking this is where the problem lies.

 

i would just try switching anyway cause i had that problem on a 96 dx i did a y8 im swap on it would run smooth but if u gassed it, then it would bog, pretty sure its a positive but not 100%

 

Thank you, this is great news, I will swap it asap and get back to you guys. I'm really hoping it's not the wiring because I soldered all the connections

 

Alright new TPS went in, still cranks but won't start. Fuel is being primed and is ready at the injectors. If i move the injectors around fuel leaks out. If I pour a little bit of gas into the IM the engine will start then die when the gas runs out.

 

I'll just put in my 2 cents real quick.

1. TPS wiring - did you switch the 2 outside wires when you did the DPFI to MPFI wiring.
That's important. It will idle high but when you open the throttle, it will think it's closing, and cut off fuel.

2. The Injector resistor box is positive. It's resisting 12v+ to 5.5v+ That is NOT a ground wire.

GL, give me a call at rywire if you're stumped.

 

i dunno maybe this too if you did have the plugs backwards you may have switched the wrong wires.

 

I did swap the 2 outside wires on the TPS when doing the dpfi -> mpfi, I even tried swapping them back to the original because I thought maybe i swapped them when I extended but nothing. I should have gotten a code or something.

It doesn't idle high it idles ok when it does start but then just dies when you gas it.

pm me your phone number please I won't get a chance to work on it until this weekend but I will give you a call cause so far I'm stumped.

Thank you so much in advanced.

 

can u post any pics of your engine bay???

or just make sur eyou have the vaccum line hooked up to the map sensor to the t/b i used to knock mine off all the time and it would do that, sounds like its something really stupid but goodluck finding the problem

 

Here are some pictures of my engine bay. These were taken 5 minutes ago. Excuse the crappy quality I only have my camera phone.

http://www.banninglec.org/uplo...4.JPG
http://www.banninglec.org/uplo...5.JPG

 

Please let me know if I need to swap some wires around

 

I've tested all the injector plugs with an other injector. All of then click when I crank the car. I have to check for spark again... wish me luck


Modified by mengy007 at 9:55 PM 9/30/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mengy007 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I swapped in only the engine and i kept my auto tranny.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Shouldn't you be using a PS9, instead of a PM6?

 

when i did my swap it did something like what are having your problem with..i did the distributor wiring wrong after like 10 times trying i got it...i dont know why i swear i did it the same everytime my harness was cut at the dizzy connections so it made it even harder check those distributor wires and grounds

 

yea maybe you got the two white wires crossed on the dizzy i screwed those up too.

 

But I haven't touched those and the car started up fine at times I even drove it around the block once.

 

Okay I just rechecked almost everything.

I hook up another injector to each injector plug, they click. I don't know if they are supposed to just click or open.

I'm getting good spark to each spark plug. I checked each one to make sure it has a proper gap.

Gas is getting to the injectors still. I'm puzzled. I checked all my fuses none are broken. I even used a ohms meter on the injectors.

I was thinking maybe my vacume lines but if I let it sit for a while, it'll run for like 10 minutes then either idle and die when you gas or just die.

 

Is it possible for the injectors to click but not open?

 

Ok Im out of ideas. I just replaced Dizzy cap, rotor. Spark plugs and wires. Still getting spark, Injectors are clicking. Fuel is getting to the injectors. Fuel primes. I couldn't get anything.

If i spray fuel into the IM it'll start but die after fuel is done.

I wonder if I can send my poorly modified harness to rywire that is my last hope.

 

bump