The Build:

D16Z6 Bottom end (from 1995 Civic Si VTEC)
-D16A6 (PM6 CRX Si) Pistons
-Completly rebuild and cleaned with new everything
-Bored .040 Over (from 75mm to 76mm bores)
-New Exedy Clutch
-Exedy Lightweight Flywheel
-ARP headstuds

D16Y8 Head (from 2000 Civic EX VTEC)
-Crower Stage 2 Cam
-Crower valve springs
-Crower Titanium retainers
-completly rebuild and cleaned with new everything
-Skunk 2 Pro Series Intake Manifold
-2 layer head gasket
-AEM Adj. Cam gear
-B16 Throttle boddy (increases from 56mm to 58mm)
-B16 Intake arm
-Apex'i Power Intake
-DC Sports 4-1 Headers
-2.5 inch mandrel Exhaust with 22" resonator, SNL Twin Loop

Enigne Managment
-Socketed and chiped P28 ecu
-Hondata S100 piggyback

Cooling:
-GSR Radiator

Transmition:
-EX/Si Trans

Origional Thread - more info:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1717242

The Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqe68brApKg

The Dyno Graph:
The graph shows my setup with my intake (apexi on stock Honda B16 intake pipe) in green, and we experimented with a couple different lengths of pipe. The photo below is the purple line, and an intake about 8 inches shorter then that one is the blue line. Looks like I have about 4 hp and some tq to gain from a longer intake. The dips are caused by intake resonance.









The car lost all across the board when we advanced the cam timing 2 degrees on the cam gear. We ended up at 1 degree retard for the best numbers.


Modified by Eyal 951 at 1:39 AM 9/22/2006


Modified by Eyal 951 at 3:11 PM 9/23/2006

 

Nice. Glad to see everything worked out for you. I was down with your thread from the beginning.

 

wow. nice swap. i'm going to get a z6 head real soon and i'm going to slap it on my y8. i was planning on doing the same set up with the internals.

 

so thats 144 hp tp the flywheel?

 

No. To the hub.

Nice build.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just think, you probably could have put the same in or less and bought yourself a B16 motor and it woulda thrown out similiar numbers STOCK and had the potential to go higher. I don't like to diss certain engine builds but expletive na d-series.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just quit while you are ahead.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ZacCarter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Just quit while you are ahead.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, maybe... I don't know, I'm running a N/A D series....NA 'cause it's stock...not a bad engine, don't know why you'd want to burn money by souping one up NA unless you had the parts lying around...but if you have a bunch of crowser stage 2 cams and the works laying around, then obviously you've already blown your money.

Idea sux no matter how you look at it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, maybe... I don't know, I'm running a N/A D series....NA 'cause it's stock...not a bad engine, don't know why you'd want to burn money by souping one up NA unless you had the parts lying around...but if you have a bunch of crowser stage 2 cams and the works laying around, then obviously you've already blown your money.

Idea sux no matter how you look at it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Um most of the SOHC parts are about half the price of bseries stuff. Most of his parts are OEM. He could always put a blower on this if he needed to go faster, but it is his daily driver.

 

hmm i think this is a good test.

seems like 8 inches changed where you gained your power.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by type B16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hmm i think this is a good test.

seems like 8 inches changed where you gained your power.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What are you talking about?

 

Gotta give you credit for the effort But for all that work I'd want to get more than 150whp out of it. I'll stick to the B series, it seeems that they are way more rewarding.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ZacCarter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What are you talking about?</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol, that guy's quote reminds me of dumb and dumber when he's like

According to the map, we've only driven 4 inches lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ZacCarter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What are you talking about?</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you look at the graph, by adding 8 inches to the pipe, it shifted where his power jumped.

having a longer or shorter pipe will change where you make your power jump. figuring out the right length for a specific setup would be best.

 

Yea I understand now.

 

i think aem or other cai makes already tested this out. ill probably buy a aem itr cai and slap my velocity stack on it and see how much power ill gain

 

Like I said, I didn't need huge power from this engine. I wanted to Build a motor, spend less then a B swap, keep a lightweight car lightweight and maintain its balance for the track (road courses, not strip). The car is faster then a B16 swap with mods, I have a brand new engine with brand new parts, and I built it myself. I'm quite satisfied.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eyal 951 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Like I said, I didn't need huge power from this engine. I wanted to Build a motor, spend less then a B swap, keep a lightweight car lightweight and maintain its balance for the track (road courses, not strip). The car is faster then a B16 swap with mods, I have a brand new engine with brand new parts, and I built it myself. I'm quite satisfied.</TD></TR></TABLE> And that is what matters in the end.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ZacCarter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> And that is what matters in the end. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i agree. but, since this is a public forum, i will drop an opinion....the car's weight ould easily be offset by tuning the suspension and adding more power, the b-series IS expencive, but you can build a budget B as much as you can a budget D...im doing a CR-Vtec and my budget is sub 1500$ and it should give me nice hp/tq numbers and be relatively cheap (for teh haters, the build is panned out already, i will make it and then some for 1500$) and then i have the potential to reach high 300's with another grand or so....so we'll cee where that brings me. btw...im also building a NA d-series to go into another car. it wont show NEAR the HP your showing but im going to refurbish it for under 500$ and THAT will be for a reliable DD

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sleepy_Red_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i agree. but, since this is a public forum, i will drop an opinion....the car's weight ould easily be offset by tuning the suspension and adding more power, the b-series IS expencive, but you can build a budget B as much as you can a budget D...im doing a CR-Vtec and my budget is sub 1500$ and it should give me nice hp/tq numbers and be relatively cheap (for teh haters, the build is panned out already, i will make it and then some for 1500$) and then i have the potential to reach high 300's with another grand or so....so we'll cee where that brings me. btw...im also building a NA d-series to go into another car. it wont show NEAR the HP your showing but im going to refurbish it for under 500$ and THAT will be for a reliable DD</TD></TR></TABLE>

You wont see high 300's with out boost, and your sleeves will hate life.

 

good numbers for an all motor sohc

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eyal 951 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Like I said, I didn't need huge power from this engine. I wanted to Build a motor, spend less then a B swap, keep a lightweight car lightweight and maintain its balance for the track (road courses, not strip). The car is faster then a B16 swap with mods, I have a brand new engine with brand new parts, and I built it myself. I'm quite satisfied.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ZacCarter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> And that is what matters in the end. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Best reply yet. A build is a build, is it not?

 

For the way that he built his motor he did very well for himself. And if he ever wanted more all he needs to do is pull the pistons and swap them for something bigger. Right now his about 11 c/r and could easily change to 12.5 and up the cam and easily see over 160hp which is very good for a D series and pay alot less then what you would for a B series to match that (GSR, and Type R). Thats called a budget build.

You going to fontana this weekend? I might head out there to see some friends run but i wont be there til maybe 2ish or later. I would like to know what you pull.

 

Nice build, but what I never understood is why have your intake setup like that when you're tuning? You'll never have it in that position when racing. Plus you just made a bunch of crazy bends which probably hurts you.

 

They do it like that because if they had it in his stock position the car would see damn near no air because the fans dont blow under the car like you would driving. When you change back to the orignal way i believe you loose like 2hp if that depending on your filter.

 

If you look at it, it's just his CAI bent up and has the extra piping fastened on. There's no more bends in that setup than if he had his CAI placed properly behind the bumper. GJ on the build btw, i'm planning to build up my y8 with some high compression JDM ZC pistons next spring.