hey everyone,

this is my first motor swap in my 89 ef hatchback, its a d16y7 approx (40,xxx) with a t25 turbo, i got my pm6 chipped for TURBOEDIT and i have 390cc injectors and walbro 255lph hp fuel pump, ecu chipped for max 10psi, i also have a full greddy fmic and black intercooler piping, i have a turboxs rfl bov, i also have a adj fpr set for 48psi from ecu i was told? i have a turbo xs manual boost controler hooked up already, wondering if i should right away try and turn boost down to like 5psi for the first couple starts befor i get it tuned? also i have a golden eagle vacuum manifold for all my extra vacuum, once again i rebuilt the whole motor and my a d16z6 full intake manifold on it with a throttle spacer and a b18a TB. all new gaskets and etc, i also put the 91 si tranny with a exedy stage 1 clutch and throw out bearing and pressure plate, and a new oem flywheel. new axels and short shifter and all energy bushings etc.. just to name a few, LIKE i said tho its my first motor sway and HMT setup and need to know what i shuld do befor trying to start the motor up for the first time. IF anyone that has the same setup or knows anything i should need to know about the setup please pm'ed me or post it up it will be a great help, and soon ill have some pics if anyone wants to see. its taken me about 6months to find my full hmt setup and im pretty happy, once again any help would be appreciated thanks in advanced H~T members.

 

ANYONE HAVE ANY INFO????

 

you know the mitsubishi t25 internal wastegate is set at 9psi ? so that means you cant lower it you can only raise boost with a boost controller....The only way to lower boost with that internal gate is to shorter the actuator arm....Now there are kits available that are made for this and they set boost real low,,...but they're expensive,, so u can ghetto it,,shorten the arm to raise boost and lengthen it to lower boost..so you take the arm off and cut it in the middle,,then thread to 2 ends,,then go to a hardware store and get a long nut and 2 small nuts( the 2 small nuts are for locking),,then you put the small nuts on both sides of the arms then put the long nut in between...and bring the arm with you to the store so you can see what nuts fit




and do you have a wideband o2 sensor/reader hooked up yet to read those air fuel ratios? if not i would drive it easy,,try not to boost,and wait till the tuning session cause you dont know whats on the ecu..its probably just some basemap

1st startup,,take out the ecu fuse and crank the motor a couple times to get some oil throght that turbo,,then start that bitch and check for leaks,smoke,etc..

 

thanks for the info.. appreciated

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.speaker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you know the mitsubishi t25 internal wastegate is set at 9psi ? so that means you cant lower it you can only raise boost with a boost controller....The only way to lower boost with that internal gate is to shorter the actuator arm....Now there are kits available that are made for this and they set boost real low,,...but they're expensive,, so u can ghetto it,,shorten the arm to raise boost and lengthen it to lower boost..so you take the arm off and cut it in the middle,,then thread to 2 ends,,then go to a hardware store and get a long nut and 2 small nuts( the 2 small nuts are for locking),,then you put the small nuts on both sides of the arms then put the long nut in between...and bring the arm with you to the store so you can see what nuts fit




and do you have a wideband o2 sensor/reader hooked up yet to read those air fuel ratios? if not i would drive it easy,,try not to boost,and wait till the tuning session cause you dont know whats on the ecu..its probably just some basemap

1st startup,,take out the ecu fuse and crank the motor a couple times to get some oil throght that turbo,,then start that bitch and check for leaks,smoke,etc..</TD></TR></TABLE>


turning down the boost would be making the actuator arm longer... the tighter the actuator the more boost, every thing else is right tho

-joseph

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lightcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


turning down the boost would be making the actuator arm longer... the tighter the actuator the more boost, every thing else is right tho

-joseph</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i typed to fast,,cause you see i typed shorten the arm to lower the boost,,then the next sentence i typed lengthen the arm the to lower the boost..Thanks for the correction to help not spread misinformation

 

i didnt even catch that lol, i just saw the first one.. i dont want this guy turning up the boost by accident lol .... like :guy: "this should be about 7psi" :in the car testing:"ahhhh 42 psi damn HT boom " lol

for good info