so i just installed a block gaurd from GE. a friend told me that i need to rehone the cylinders agian even though i just the bottem end back from a compleat rebiuld. is this true?

 

We would have to see the block to tell you weither it needs a hone or not. How does the walls look?

 

they are extreamly clean ill take a few pics and post them in a couple miniuts.

 

pics up

 

They dont need to be cleaned. and that doesnt look like a golden eagle guard. New design?

 

the walls look pretty clean along with the pistons and it look that the walls was already honed

 

yeah i think it's a new design ony $50 too





also im about to torque down my head, what position should my pistions be in?

 

the cylinders are already honed but my friend said that installing a block guard can slightly mis-shape them and you should get it honed afterwards.

 

Have everything to TDC so its a smooth transition. If the pistons move up and down with no resistance with the head off then your block is fine and go on with your day.

 

what TDC on the block? outter pistons up or inner pistons up?

 

Outter pistons up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NScivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what TDC on the block? outter pistons up or inner pistons up?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cylinder 1 for TDC, cylinder 1 is a outter piston, cylinder one is on the right if you're looking at the engine from the front.

 

just some tips from a machinist- when installing a block guard- the correct way is to tig it in then redeck the block- i have seen people high temp epoxy them into place, which is Ok i guess, but i wouldnt wanna take the chance of something coming loose or glue chipping off and going in your motor, Make sure you torque all the main caps to factory specs before you install, the guard needs to be at least, .125 (1/8) to .25(1/4) inch down from the deck for proper coolant flow, you when installign a block guard, it can bring your cylinder walls in up to .005 and most likely will , you should always rehone the block to make sure everything is straight, and use new rings so everything seals right, once that ****** goes in, they are almost impossible to get out so do it right. Here is a pic of one i just did.

 

i did not rehone, but i did it the safe way.

remember the blockguard helps prevent sleeves from shifting... if does not need to be super tight in there...

i filed and sanded the blockguard, until i could push it in with my fingers...

its been months and i had zero problems.

 

so i need tp hammer mine down more? how do i do that because a rubber mallet only got me flush with the block. how do i get it further down with out damaging it? also do i have to rehone he cylinders it gonna be a bitch and an inconviance if i do. also just for a note my rings are new 0 miles. thanks for your info.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igo4bmx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i did not rehone, but i did it the safe way.

remember the blockguard helps prevent sleeves from shifting... if does not need to be super tight in there...

i filed and sanded the blockguard, until i could push it in with my fingers...

its been months and i had zero problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how far did you put yours down? and did you secure yours? i.e. tig welding or epoxy?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NScivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so i need tp hammer mine down more? how do i do that because a rubber mallet only got me flush with the block. how do i get it further down with out damaging it? also do i have to rehone he cylinders it gonna be a bitch and an inconviance if i do. also just for a note my rings are new 0 miles. thanks for your info.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i would try to pull it out, then sand and file the outer edges, until u can get it to fit in bwteen the sleeves with less ease.
hammering in a blockguard PRELOADS stress onto the sleeves, which will cause issues when both metals heat up and expand.

also it should not be flush with the surface... u need to hit it with something to push it down more.

 

that block is secks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jadugartir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that block is secks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

whats that mean?

so how would you recomend i get it out?

 

bump<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NScivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

how far did you put yours down? and did you secure yours? i.e. tig welding or epoxy?</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NScivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

whats that mean?

so how would you recomend i get it out?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NScivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats that mean?

so how would you recomend i get it out?</TD></TR></TABLE>


with some wired weaved in and out, or with hooks and an engine hoist to pull it up

 

here is my thread from a while back
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1659136

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blown99civicsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Had a customer bring me a block that had a blockguard installed(GEM) W/O machining, the guard was soo tight it cause the cylinders to mis-shape and created a oval like cylinder that would not allow the piston rings to seat, hell when I tried to tear the motor down it took 30min t get 1 piston out of a sleeve, It made the cylinder close so much under heat/driving, the piston skirt was actually rubbing on the cylinder wal causing it to almost seize up!, not the rings on the wall, the piston side skirt!

Do it right or do it twice, Installing a block guard in a cold motor and checking clearence is a diffrent game than when the motor reaches opperating temps and things expand... in this situation it ended up costing the owner a new block and pistons needless to say, he now runs sleeves and wont try something like this again without the correct tools and help...</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is why it shouldn't be a super tight fit when installed

 

usa a brass punch to tap it into place, it should seat itself.

 

and do i have to secure it in place with tig welding or epoxy?

 

bump it up please help!!