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swap em out with working ones and see if that solves the problem

 

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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ogawa_jiei &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But even if they are working, if I had some ecu problems or wiring mix ups, wouldnt they still not cause a spark? I am wondering because I am using a Japanese B16A, with a Japanese B16A harness, and a Japanese B16A ECU, with a Canadian EG Civic Hatch back, which has it's original chassis wiring harness... Is that gonna be a problem?</TD></TR></TABLE>

if there was something wrong with your wiring or ecu it would throw a code most likely....

is it throwing any codes?

 

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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ogawa_jiei &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for your replies! but if the distributor innards were fine, it would still start would it not? it would just throw codes, no? Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>

no not necessarily...... if there is something wrong with the dizzy, bad ignitor it won't start, it would not throw codes..

I'm trying to figure out what you're talking about...... thats why i asked if you had any codes?


i would say your best bet is to swap the coil or ignitor out with ones from a known working dizzy and then go from there... good luck

 

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i think this might help you if you want to know some specs of the distributor.
http://jdmlyfestyle.com/how_to...m.htm

 

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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ogawa_jiei &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks again for your info. I haven't checked the codes yet. I didn't know it would throw codes if it doesn't start. Would I be checking for codes while turning the engine over? Or put the key into some certain position? Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>


i meant do you have a check engline light on when you start the car, instead of turning off after you start the car, the check engine light stays on. but if not, then you are not throwing any codes

 

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ohhhhhhhhhhhhh your car isn't even starting, so nevermind, you can't even see if has any check engine lights

its probably something in the dizzy, ignitor or coil - i would just swap the both of them with new parts cause chances are if one's taken a **** on you, the other isn't too far behind

 

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any lucky with the distributor testing in that link? i am going through the same ordeal with a d16z6 that won't start, and am at the same point (cranks, has fuel, no spark). i just tested by dizzy according to the instructions on that link, and according to my results the coil is bad.

hopefully will replace coil or entire dizzy and should start. we'll see.

 

replaced cap, rotor, and coil to day and it turned over on the first try as if nothing had happened.

while i was at the counter at vatozone, i tested the new coil's positive and negative terminals with my multimeter. like my supposedly dead coil, there was no resistance between them. yet when i threw it in my original dizzy, along with a new cap and rotor, it fired right away. my point is, zero resistance between positive and negative does not seem to mean a coil is no good.


your results may vary.