im thinking about making a custom airbox for my ghetto stick intake. i was thinking about getting a heavy duty plastic tuperware that is big enough to fit my 6" filter yet small enough to fit in the engine bay and just have some piping for cold air from the front bumper

post up some of your custom fab boxes to give me a idea on how i should do it

 

My friend, Mr Mugen made this one

 

What i did is keep the stock airbox and stock intake pipe, but rip out the resonator below it. That should leave you a big hole, about 3 inches in diameter. I used flexible dryer vent hoses to channel the air. Where would it run to is your choice. I fixed the hose to the air dam in the front bumper, next to the radiator. Take the other end up and connect to the bottom of the airbox.

If this is your track car you may think of ripping out the passenger side high beam and put your hose there The best of ram air intake.

make sure you cover the airbox too. Open airbox is spilling cold air and negate most of the air flow's pressure effect. If you see a lot of flooded roads, take away the cover then you wont have to worry about water.

 

http://www.geocities.com/bretq/DIY_Icebox_CAI.html

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gogogomoveit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What i did is keep the stock airbox and stock intake pipe, but rip out the resonator below it. That should leave you a big hole, about 3 inches in diameter. I used flexible dryer vent hoses to channel the air. Where would it run to is your choice. I fixed the hose to the air dam in the front bumper, next to the radiator. Take the other end up and connect to the bottom of the airbox.

If this is your track car you may think of ripping out the passenger side high beam and put your hose there The best of ram air intake.

make sure you cover the airbox too. Open airbox is spilling cold air and negate most of the air flow's pressure effect. If you see a lot of flooded roads, take away the cover then you wont have to worry about water.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

i been thinking about this, my resonator is already gone (previous owner). Did you tell any difference? Louder? think i'll get some dryer vent hose this weekend!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ill Mitch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i been thinking about this, my resonator is already gone (previous owner). Did you tell any difference? Louder? think i'll get some dryer vent hose this weekend!</TD></TR></TABLE>

I realized that if there's no dyno tune, i wont claim anything or numbers on ITR forum, else I will get flamed into ash I think a guy here has done a comparison on dyno against mugen and spoon a month or so back.... you could probably do a search on that.

But to answer your question, it works better than AEM as there's no hydrolock problem, the air is cooler than AEM's engine bay air, and you get some help from the air flow when you are at speed . It not any louder when you are driving in city, and it roars VTAK at WOT.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Erik95LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.geocities.com/bretq/DIY_Icebox_CAI.html</TD></TR></TABLE>

nice post Erik. it is pretty much like this but I actually have the flexible dryer hose right at the air dam. you can actually see it if you paid enough attention and walk close enough.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gogogomoveit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
nice post Erik. it is pretty much like this but I actually have the flexible dryer hose right at the air dam. you can actually see it if you paid enough attention and walk close enough.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I bought/made the same setup that Erik posted some time ago, until I saw dyno chart where it LOST power against the stock ITR box w/resonator. This was going back to like 01 or 02.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by You Big Dummy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I bought/made the same setup that Erik posted some time ago, until I saw dyno chart where it LOST power against the stock ITR box w/resonator. This was going back to like 01 or 02.

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Thats exactly why i wont claim anything. The other guy who did the comparison see gains. I choose to do it since i could justify doing that at minimal cost. Up to you.

 

people have seen both gains and losses with the same set up so its kind of hard to say.

 

so what exactly causes the power loss on that setup?

im thinking the pvs fumes have anything to do with it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My friend, Mr Mugen made this one

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Funny. I think that's the same guy that made mine...



I too thought about the DIY option back when I had my DD ITR. Only thing I came up with was trying to learn how to mold either fiberglass or carbon fiber. Then make something out of that with a velocity stack attatched to it. I'm sure if you learned how to mod with the CF then you could build some sort of heat sheild around the filter area like this. (nevermind that it's a turbo car)





Put some sort of filter on it (there's a great write up in the all motor forum about velocity stacks with dyno comparisons)

Then route some sort of cold air tubing in the fender area to the bottom of the velocity stack "box"