In an earlier thread I posted about blowing my timing belt in my '93 dx hatch. I was doing some other work to the car one night, when the engine stalled, appearantly having blown the timing belt.

Fast forward to today. I finally had a little time off to work on the car. I installed a new water pump and timing belt. I then ran a compression test on all 4 cylinders. They all read 175-180 psi. Now that I finally have everything put back together, the car started right up! woohoo!

So here is the problem: The car seems to idle a bit rough or erratic. It goes "brmmmmmmmmmmm buhm bumbum brmmmmmmmmmmm buhm bumbum...." etc.
Nothing metallic or anything banging around can be heard, its just that the car seems to run rough, like its not getting enough fuel or something for a few seconds... its weird though because it idles rough, but in a discernable pattern. I am pretty dang sure I got the timing right when installing the new belt, and the compression test should have pointed out any bent valves and such.

I am hoping this is something simple, I just don't have the time to keep working on the dang car all the time.

I appreciated any input or suggestions.

-alex

 

Check the timing to make sure it's set right. If it's off by a tooth it can do that.

Also check your injector plugs to make sure they're all the way on and check your firing order.

 

sounds good. I'll take a look at that. Any other ideas?

 

Old spark plugs/wires will make the car run that way also. Bent valves dont show up right away all the time either.

 

I actually just recently replaced the plugs and wires.

edit: Just went out to the car. Now it won't start This is the problem I had before the old timing belt had blown. The car cranks and cranks, but won't start. Sometimes it almost catches. Before when it would start, it ran fine (well, till the timing belt blew). Anyways, This problem may not be related at all to the timing belt because I had been having these problems for a while now. Any ideas on what to check?
I noticed the distributer was tilted all the way towards the firewall, I placed it in the middle of its range of motion and the car still does not start. Could this be something related to my injectors or something?


Modified by Spiffious at 9:01 PM 9/19/2006

 

update: I went out again and the car started up no problem. I then adjusted the distributor, and that definately made a difference on how smooth the engine ran. I adjusted it so it was rotated to the full range of adjustment towards the front of the car, and it runs much better, but still blips a bit as if something is still not right. Could the timing belt be off a tooth or something? Would picking up a timing gun and checking the timing determine whether this is the issue or not?

thanks all for the input.

 

make sure the plug wires are on correctly.

 

Did you gap the plugs?

Try to borrow a timing light just to make sure your ignition timing is nuts on.

You have your ground on your valvecover/PS bracket, right?

Pull the plugs and set the crank to TDC and make sure the cam gear is at TDC too. That'll tell you if it's off a tooth or not.

The car is stock, right?

I have a turbo SOHC & my friend has a boosted B16 & both of our idles kinda pop & sound funny.

Sorry to throw out so many suggestions, I'm just trying to throw some things out that might make a difference.

My suggestion as to the order you should go is:
1) Check valve cover ground
2) Pull plugs
3) Check motor for TDC
4) Gap plugs & replace
5) Use timing light to set ignition timing.

 

I haven't yet been able to find a friend with a timing gun to borrow yet Buuttt...

I've been reading up on the DIY timing belt install thread, and someone said:


"I know this is an old post, but felt compelled to answer this. The crank pulley has 3 lines close to each other, and the 4th is alittle farther apart. You were correct in using the one apart from the others to bring the crank to TDC, and it should be white. The other 3 lines are used to set the ignition timing with a timing light. That is why they said to use the red line, I believe they were thinking of setting ignition timing, not bringing the crank to TDC. Just wanted to bump a good thread."


is this true? Because I believe I used the three little lines to set TDC to the arrow on the timing cover. Is it really supposed to be that other little line?

If that is the case, is there a way to adjust the timing belt on the cam gear without removing the lower timing cover? ie: Can I remove the belt from the cam gear, then adjust my crank to the real TDC, then place the belt back on?

thanks for any info here.

 

It would be best to loosen the belt & do it the right way.

You could loosen the belt, adjust the cam, and then put the belt back on, but I'd do it the right way.

 

A good mechanic would not charge you
to check your timing.