Does anyone have pics of how they mounted the solenoid? I mounted it and wired it but the solenoid seems too weak to pop the trunk. Help?


Modified by JdmGlenn at 1:25 PM 9/17/2006

 

If your hatch "pops" open even slightly than the soliniod did its job, you might need larger shocks (or what ever the things that hold the hatch open are). Just speculating here. Good luck tho

 

well the solenoid pulls the trunk latch but not hard enough to open the trunk

 

I dont know how much your willing to invest. but ive seen around the web solinoids that open up regular car doors, these might be more powerfull than a trunk soliniod, but i cant be sure seeing as ive never done anything like this, just throwing out some ideas that might toggle your memory .......If you do get the door solinoid, and it turns out its not powerfull enough, im guessing a combination of them both would def do the job. Let us know how this project turns out.

 

is the cable tight before the solenoid is engaged?

 

thanks for the pointers guys

um ya the cable is tight, not slop or anything.

 

What is the solenoids pull-cable connected to?

What/where is the solenoid grounded to, how is it grounded?

What/where is the solenoid 12V+ power connected to and how? 94

 

The cable is connected to the latch in the trunk ( not the one on the actual hatch)

The ground goes to the driver side tail light screw

Power is connect to the ignition switch

 

i will take some pics tonight when i get back home.

Thanks again FCM for explaining the Diode to me!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skingfreak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your hatch "pops" open even slightly than the soliniod did its job, you might need larger shocks (or what ever the things that hold the hatch open are). Just speculating here. Good luck tho</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly!
the solenoid isnt gonna make the hatch open up completely
it just pulls the latch open

the spring loaded popper is what actually makes doors appear to pop open

so if ur expecting the hatch to open completely u got the wrong idea of what solenoids do

but if u mean after u the solenoid pulls the latch & u cant manually lift the trunk open
then it sounds like u need some new shocks

 

ohh no no i dont expect the hatch to come up too haha.

The solenoid isnt even poping the latch loose. You can hear the latch click but thats about it. Its not pulling it to open. I cut my manual trunk cable so now i have to open my hatch from outside with a key. HELP!!

 

This is where i mounted the solenoid. Only place i could get it to fit with the oem plastics over it.


The wire actually goes into the lil circular hole


Attaches to the latch here

 

Oops, it has to be connected to the latch mechanism, in the trunk lid, what exactly are you connecting it to on the striker plate, the lever that the stock release cable went to? 94

 

ya i put it right where the old oem cable was.

 

That lever needs more travel then the solenoid can provide. you can try and move the connection point closer to the pivot point, [shorten travel] and see if that works, solenoid may not be strong enough.

What I would do is measure solinoid travel, [say its .5"] then measure travel. [that releases lid] at connection point on release lever if it is more then .5" find a spot on lever, [closer to pivot] that has to travel less then .5" to release lid, drill a hole in lever at that point and connect solenoid cable to it, and try it, make sure solenoid is grounded real good, and replace the wire that came with it and run a 12ga wire from a relay to trigger it.

If solenoid is not strong enough to release lid that way you will have to move it to the lid and connect it directly to the latch.

BTW the 2 nuts on the 2 machine screws are "lock nuts" turn them back so the lock the screw into place on the bracket. 94

 

I'm interested in this too, my 2000 hatch didn't even come with a manual release, and I've been trying to figure out how to mount the solenoid to sucessfully pop it...