Going to look at my first honda, have ?'s
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: Dousman, WI, 100 percent American
Well I am going to look at my first honda it is a 1995 dx hatch 5spd. It needs some work but my all my buddies work on hondas but I can't get anyone to come with me to check it out.
First major concern is that he says it has a bad IACV because the idle is high and goes up and down. He says its not driveable because of this. Make sense or no?
Also says it overheats because of the bad IACV, make sense or no? Anything else to really look for?
First major concern is that he says it has a bad IACV because the idle is high and goes up and down. He says its not driveable because of this. Make sense or no?
Also says it overheats because of the bad IACV, make sense or no? Anything else to really look for?
IACV is the Idle Air Control Valve. It has nothing to do with overheating, but does with idle. I woud stay away from that car if i were you because the guy trying to sell is naming things out of the blue. Go see a diff car.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: Dousman, WI, 100 percent American
Well he admitted that he didn't know anything about cars. What kind of compression should a 1.6 have and is there anything special about doing a comp test on one?
I would go look at others but I can't find any decent hondas in my area in my price range... which isn't much lol
I would go look at others but I can't find any decent hondas in my area in my price range... which isn't much lol
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,443
Likes: 2
From: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
Scam regardless.
Doesn't matter if your FITV is jammed, your IACV is bad, or you have a leak in our intake system. Any of those WILL create a bouncing idle like that, but NONE of them will keep you from driving the car. The only problem you might face (I know I had this problemw when the IACV was bad on my probe) is that you can drive and when you clutch to shift the RPM's bump up a little....so you'll be driving at 3k RPM's, clutch and it'll go up to 3.3k RPM's, then you just have to wait until it falls to 2.6 or whatever until you can shift. That's it, there's nothing else that would make it "undrivable." If he says it's not drivable, he's scamming, DO NOT buy it because he's obviously just trying to mask other problems.
Doesn't matter if your FITV is jammed, your IACV is bad, or you have a leak in our intake system. Any of those WILL create a bouncing idle like that, but NONE of them will keep you from driving the car. The only problem you might face (I know I had this problemw when the IACV was bad on my probe) is that you can drive and when you clutch to shift the RPM's bump up a little....so you'll be driving at 3k RPM's, clutch and it'll go up to 3.3k RPM's, then you just have to wait until it falls to 2.6 or whatever until you can shift. That's it, there's nothing else that would make it "undrivable." If he says it's not drivable, he's scamming, DO NOT buy it because he's obviously just trying to mask other problems.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: Dousman, WI, 100 percent American
He says its not driveable because of the overheating. He is asking 1500 for it and is will to negotiate, I was planning on swapping it next year, this is going to be my beater to drive while I work on my unreliable dsm.
Trending Topics
Guest
Posts: n/a
If its overheating I would stay away if you plan on keeping that engine . Honda engines are all aluminum and overheating warps and really messes with them. Sounds like the salesman overheated the motor and wants you to deal with it. If you plan on swapping a motor in then go ahead and just make sure you get a really good deal on a "shell"
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by szewczyd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He says its not driveable because of the overheating. He is asking 1500 for it and is will to negotiate, I was planning on swapping it next year, this is going to be my beater to drive while I work on my unreliable dsm.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Tell him he can either fix the head gasket and cooling system and you'll take it for $1500 or you can do it yourself if he knocks $500 off the price. Get brutal. If you're looking for a beater you don't need this particular car. You can afford to be patient and not get fucked. You don't want your beater to have as much down time as your DSM - God help us all if that were to ever be the case
Tell him he can either fix the head gasket and cooling system and you'll take it for $1500 or you can do it yourself if he knocks $500 off the price. Get brutal. If you're looking for a beater you don't need this particular car. You can afford to be patient and not get fucked. You don't want your beater to have as much down time as your DSM - God help us all if that were to ever be the case
The overheating is more than likely a headgasket. I've bought my 92 dx hatchback and my 93 dx coupe both with bad headgaskets. One was $500, and the other was $550. Nobody has to know that the headgasket is only $39 and takes 4 hours to do.
With an absolutely clean car, and D series motors so cheap, I could see spending at most $900.
With an absolutely clean car, and D series motors so cheap, I could see spending at most $900.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,443
Likes: 2
From: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Tell him he can either fix the head gasket and cooling system and you'll take it for $1500 or you can do it yourself if he knocks $500 off the price. Get brutal. If you're looking for a beater you don't need this particular car. You can afford to be patient and not get fucked. You don't want your beater to have as much down time as your DSM - God help us all if that were to ever be the case
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed!
Tell him as is for 1k or 1.2k, or 1.5 fixed.
It's probably something simple like the thermostat that's causing it to overheat, and the headgaskets are a breeze on a civic, so don't worry
.
Tell him he can either fix the head gasket and cooling system and you'll take it for $1500 or you can do it yourself if he knocks $500 off the price. Get brutal. If you're looking for a beater you don't need this particular car. You can afford to be patient and not get fucked. You don't want your beater to have as much down time as your DSM - God help us all if that were to ever be the case
</TD></TR></TABLE>Agreed!
Tell him as is for 1k or 1.2k, or 1.5 fixed.
It's probably something simple like the thermostat that's causing it to overheat, and the headgaskets are a breeze on a civic, so don't worry
.
Guest
Posts: n/a
HA i picked up a 93 hatch in almost the same situation. car was overheating and the people could not figure out what was wrong with it. I got if for $200!!! Anyways, i ended up having the block rebuilt and then swapped a d16z6 vtec head on it. If you could buy it for $1000 or less i'd get it, then (this is my personal opinion) get a nice d-series in there and BOOST it. The best bang for your buck.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: Dousman, WI, 100 percent American
Well that sounds great to boost it, but I allready have one boosted car and really don't need two of them. I am thinking I may and try and get it for 1k but I doubt he will move to that, we will see.
As far as a compression test goes how bad are they to do on hondas? And what numbers am I looking for, that way I can maybe tell if the hq is gone or not.
As far as a compression test goes how bad are they to do on hondas? And what numbers am I looking for, that way I can maybe tell if the hq is gone or not.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RuthlessEF-9
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
4
Mar 19, 2004 08:54 AM
M.A.R.C.
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
2
Apr 20, 2002 01:55 PM




