tried searching but didn't yield any real results.

I have a 95 cx with a d15b. my idle is typicaly between 1300-1600. going back and forth. sometimes it'll stop and act normal. even then idle is a bit high at 1100 or so.. i switched out my iacv with a known working one and it is clean. it didn't help it so i then cleaned the fitv and tighted the screw inside. no use.. then i noticed a leak from the heater hose that connects from the TB to the fitv. eventually it tore and leaked big. the idle was fluxuating like crazy. now i'm gonna switch out the hose and try to figure out the other problem. any ideas?

help.

 

I don't know much about the FITV (I mean I know what it does and all, but not sure about the specifics on how it works), though from what I understand it's a similiar concept to that of the IACV. If you're leaking coolant into the FITV that can only mean one thing. If coolant's coming out - air is going in. If you're getting air in the coolant lines going to your FITV, that can very easily in and of itself cause a fluxuating idle like you have. I'd recommend replacing that hose, but you'll still have air in the system. You'll have to bleed it out - now I don't know how to bleed a Honda coolant system (know how to drain it....but bleed?...Just open the drain plug and fill it until coolant starts coming out and then put the drain plug back in to assure that no air is in there? - I don't know but it's probably worth a shot :-P) but do it after you've replaced the hose and are sure the clamps are tight...or you'll still have air in the system. I'm sure somebody here could elaborate on how to bleed the coolant system plus if you actually need to or not. I would think you would, but maybe you don't?. Hrm, either way, replace that hose.

Should do the trick.

 

ok, so i replaced the hose and i flushed the coolant and went to go start the car and the rpms jump to 2500-3000 then it went back down to fluxuating between 1300-2300 when warm. no CEL. any ideas?

the only thing i touched was the FITV. before cleaning it and tightening the screw it was idling between 1300-1600.
oh, i noticed the two holes in the TB still suck in air when the car is warm. little to no change in idle if i cover either one. but it does idle nice if i cover both holes up. thanks in advance.

PLEASE HELP. big date in a couple days.




Modified by c for sea at 3:34 AM 9/15/2006

 

what if i just drove with those two TB holes covered and left everything else the way it is for now (the hoses routed the way they are)? would it hurt? anyone know?


Modified by c for sea at 5:05 AM 9/15/2006

 

re-set the ecu for high load idling. start the engine, turn on the rear window defroster, (if applicable) then leave on for ten minutes. turn off the defroster. turn on AC (if applicable) then leave on for ten minutes. turn off the AC. rev the engine to 2200rpm-hold 15 seconds, check for surging= rpm's bouncing in increments on tach. (if applicable) if no surging. she'll be right m8. if you don't have AC or rear defroster. use the accessories which take the most amps to run. and follow procedures in the exact same pattern. That should be the go!

Good Luck M8

 

resetting the ecu didn't help.

 

Make sure that there an NO leaks at all. It sounded like there were two small leaks in the TB. If so, close them up. Also, you can make/buy a block off plate for the FIT valve, as I have done. I haven't had any problems since I put the plate on, and it's been a couple of years.

-Shane

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nighttrain33 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure that there an NO leaks at all. It sounded like there were two small leaks in the TB. If so, close them up. Also, you can make/buy a block off plate for the FIT valve, as I have done. I haven't had any problems since I put the plate on, and it's been a couple of years.

-Shane</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

What was the last thing you did before you had this problem? Take off your throttle body or intake manifold for whatever reason? Im thinking your looking in the wrong places to fix your problem. Check vacuum hoses and look for cracks and such, if you see any with cracks replace the hose.

 

i didn't nothing. i had fine idle beforehand and it started to fluxuate and now it's worse.

 

You took appart your FITV and screwed the spring back down correct? (i couldnt quit get weither you did or not in your thread)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You took appart your FITV and screwed the spring back down correct? (i couldnt quit get weither you did or not in your thread)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Who cares, he doesn't even need the damn thing.

-Shane

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nighttrain33 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Who cares, he doesn't even need the damn thing.

-Shane</TD></TR></TABLE>

True but if he doesnt have a plate or something to cover it his in worse case and if he didnt screw the spring back in that could be causing his idle, im just throwing it out there

 

yes. i cleaned out the fitv. i screwed the plunger back in as far as can it can safely go. i also cleaned the iacv.

a friend pointed out that i might be low on coolant and i thought i should mention that when flushing my coolant i normally do it by disconnecting the upper rad. hose, have the car running, and start filling the rad. up. i noticed hardly any water came out of the where the water would flow out of the motor and back into the rad. it started pouring back out of the radiator instead as if it was getting stuck somewhere and not circulating.. is that possible?

oh, and all my heater hoses are now good.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">True but if he doesnt have a plate or something to cover it his in worse case and if he didnt screw the spring back in that could be causing his idle, im just throwing it out there </TD></TR></TABLE>

I know, I was just giving you a hard time. But seriously, being in CA, he should be able go to just about any shop and they should have a plate for that. Hell, I live in Waterford, MI, and I found a place that makes them in my area a couple of years ago. And this is Big 3 town. Even I have somewhat converted with my Sierra!

-Shane

 

If you cleaned the FITV and IAC and flushed the coolant so theres no bubbles there then you probably have a vacuum leak.

 

did u check your tps?.

 

If it wasn't IAC then it has to be the MAP sensor. check it out .

 

i sprayed all the vacuum lines with carb cleaner and didn't find anything. my map sensor is good. could i drive with those two holes in TB covered in the meantime? the car idles smooth as butter when both are covered.

 

i would spray it around the throttle body gasket and intake mani gasket..def sounds like a vacuum leak

 

lmao
you know hte answer to your own problme.
you have a vac leak!!
cover the dman holes and live happy

 

i think hes talking about the 2 holes inside the TB..you cant exactly "cover them up"

 

i ended up having a leak where the TB meets the IM. the gasket was expletived. thanks to all who responded.