well, i was all excited today when i got my pads and rotors and of course i got all my tools ready and got the first 35 percent done on the drivers rear only to find that they are rusted so bad its not even the right size anymore

wtf i have to put on new rotors otherwise theres no point in putting it back together

 

if there that rusted stick them in a cup of wd40 of rust removal liquid and let htem soak then scrap the rust off and ull b good

 

i did that and now the size is all fucked up

 

um.. new bolts?

 

vise grips and a blow torch . heat them a little bit a wala there you go make sure not to catch anything on fire

 

A torch is your best bet.

I believe about 2 years ago I had a head snap off of one. I was able to remove the disc and caliper at the same time. Try the other side to see if it's possible. I think it is once the pads are out.

Remember the bolt threads into the caliper not the bracket.

Good luck

 

the problem bolts arent the ones mounting the caliper to the bracket...but the ones holding the bracket to the hub...everything else came out good (well better than these)

 

Yes, the two bolts that require a 14mm socket and attach the caliper to the hub or spindle. The driver rear was the one that gave me problems 2 years ago on our 93Si.
I believe you can get enough angle on the disc to slide the pieces off. I'm trying to picture this in my head.

 

would it be possible to hammer the wheel studs backand pull the disc off, reinstall the new one, and then pull them back through

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brockscivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would it be possible to hammer the wheel studs backand pull the disc off, reinstall the new one, and then pull them back through</TD></TR></TABLE>

If I remember correctly, not really enough room back there. I'd try and fix the problem at hand before creating another one...

 

I'm thinking the same thing.

Do you have a sawsall ?

If you remove the head of the bolt, there should be eonugh room the move the caliper out a bit and cut the bolt.

My son laughts at me when I pull out my sawsall and head for the car. BUt most times it works prety well.

 

im just afraid that if i take a sawsall, or a grinder or something of the sort to it...that i might not be able to get the rest of the bolt out but it sucks really bad not having a car

 

Modified by CardDealer at 9:09 AM 11/16/2006

 

well i had to knock the studs back and do it my way...it worked like a charm too.

anyways i have one more snag then im back on the road...i cant get the passenger side caliper piston to retreat in its bore. I tried the c-clamp thing but it wasnt working at all

 

EDIT: Not sure why I was being such an ******* for no reason


Modified by Archidictus at 5:57 PM 9/13/2006

 

On rear disc brakes the piston turns. The manual says to use a pair of needle nose and push and turn at the same time. I used a open end wrench and a adjustable wrench together. Find an open end wrench that is about the same size as the + on the piston put the open end wrench straight in and put the adjustable wrench on the shaft of the open end and use that to turn it. If they are rusty it will be a bitch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94b16teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On rear disc brakes the piston turns. The manual says to use a pair of needle nose and push and turn at the same time. I used a open end wrench and a adjustable wrench together. Find an open end wrench that is about the same size as the + on the piston put the open end wrench straight in and put the adjustable wrench on the shaft of the open end and use that to turn it. If they are rusty it will be a bitch.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Or you can use needle nose pliers, works for me.

 

WHOA!!!! Sorry master of all this is honda. I was just trying to help as you should. You dont have to be a dick that was the second time on one post. Calm down do some drugs, and be nice.

 

take them 2 a machine shop mayb they could fix um...

 

archidictus...this is my first rear disc job so chill the expletive out; and i didnt mushroom the goddamn lug nuts thank you very much...im not that ****** stupid, an old lug nut did the job very well.

evidently, having a learning experience isnt good enough for anyone around here. so what, i didnt know every detail about the rear disc setup...sry ill try harder next time. Maybe you should take a nicer tone with people when they ask for a little assistance instead of jumping down their throats and treating them like ****. I do realize that i could have fucked the calipers up but if i did so what, my mistake and ill have to live with it but until its your car, your in my position and you come and do the brakes yourself be alittle nicer

 

edit: statement retracted.

this is really the best tool for the job.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog...talog

it's hella expensive. but if the calipers have some age on them, they'll do what no $7 cube will do.


Modified by dragman99 at 7:36 PM 9/13/2006

 

thanks dragman, thats a nice tool...i need to add it to the collection

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah, dumbass.......Way to work on your car with utterly no idea what the hell you're doing </TD></TR></TABLE>

Remember DUMBASS, you didn't have a clue either the first time you worked on brakes.

 

at our dealership here (i work at a honda dealership) we use a file that has an actual handle on it and with the flat tip end of the file we use it like a large screwdriver to turn the piston in. works like a charm and in a flat rate honda shop it's quick, easy, won't affect work or component quality nor will it damage or wear any parts if done properly . if you find that the piston boot bubbles up (if it does and you try to put it back on, you will tear the boot and be buying a new caliper in a year ), use a very small pick to lift up the edge of the boot seal to "burp" it and let the air out. then with your finger or a VERY blunt screwdriver, gently fold in the boot so it seats behind the edge of the piston. as always, be sure to watch when re-installing the caliper so everything goes in smoothly without catching anywhere.

also, FYI you MUST make sure that the machined slot in the rear piston (some have a "-" in them, some have a "+") is perpendicular to the pad (the pad is mounted up and down, the slot should cross the pad at a straight angle) and that the tab on the inner pad fits into this slot. if not, the pads will wear unevenly or on an angle and you will find youself with the braking equivalent of extreme negative camber wear on a tire...one side is worn down completely while the other side is still in very good condition.

it's hard for me to explain how to orientate the machined slot on the rear piston so if someone has a picture or can draw one, please feel free to post it up and sorry if my explanation was shitty. i can see it in my head because i do them every day but that doesn't help you any :roll:

p.s. also remember that graphite lube (with molybdenum) if your friend when installing pads, shims and the bolts for everything. a nice coat makes removal so much easier next time


Modified by Steve_O at 5:57 PM 9/13/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mista Bone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remember DUMBASS, you didn't have a clue either the first time you worked on brakes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So I used a manual when I was 15. Problem solved $10 Haynes manual &gt; $95 rear brake caliper.

EDIT: I've been mean for no reason in this thread. I don't know what my problem was when I first posted, but I apologize. I went back and edited or deleted my offensive posts.