I just wanted some opinions on my planned engine rebuild. I’ve got a B18C5 with a little over 100,000km on it so I think its time to freshen her up. I’m going to be starting my shopping soon so I thought I would show you guys my current list:

Head:
- Fully port and polished by Gord Busch Performance (in Mississauga)
- Port matched intake manifold
- Rocket Motorsports M22 cams (or perhaps Skunk2 Stage2)
- Skunk2 cam gears (SKU304-05-5202)
- Ferrea +1mm intake valves (F6044)
- Ferrea exhaust valves (F6049)
- Ferrea valve springs (S10070)
- Ferrea Ti retainers (E11000)
- Ferrea Seat locators (SL1004)
- Ferrea Valve locks (K10034
- ARP head studs (208-4303)
Bottome end:
- Weseco Pistons (K566M815)
- Carrillo Rods (AA-VTC-A-55433H)
- ARP Main Studs (108-5403)
Other:
- RC 310 injectors
- Honda Bearings
- Honda Valve seals
- Honda head gasket

Parts I already have:
- Mugen intake
- Mugen twin loop
- High-flow cat
- Spoon header
- Hondata S300
- PLX R-500

Gord Busch Performance (in Mississauga) is going to do the build.

My goal is to hit 200-210 WHP with a reliable and rev friendly engine that will see a mix of street and track time.

Any thoughts?

 

I'd stick to stock sized valves, and loose the spoon header. There are way better ones out there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Runnerdown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd stick to stock sized valves, and loose the spoon header. There are way better ones out there. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I understand that the Spoon header is dated and is likely going to be replaced soon after the build.

Can you explain why you would stick with the stock valve size?

Considering:
1- Ferrea has confirmed that the valve/spring/cam combo should be very safe up to 10k RPM.
2- My builder believes there will be no contact issues (of course we will confirm this once the build is complete).

Besides these two concerns can there be other negatives to going larger on the intake alone?

 

i would go with crower maxi-light rods instead, they are 100 grams lighter for each rod 4 x 100g = about a pound.
also I'd have to disagree with runnerdown about the valves. if u can afford it, do it and the spoon header will do just fine.

 

Are you saying that the Crower Maxi-light rods are 100g lighter then the Carrillo light weight Pro-A rods?

 

Sounds like a fairly mild 1.8 build, I see no need for bigger valves...maybe .5 at most?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Runnerdown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like a fairly mild 1.8 build, I see no need for bigger valves...maybe .5 at most?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you think there will be any consequences on running the valve as my builder is the one suggesting the larger intake valve? I assume he feels there may be some benefits, even if they are minimal.

He’s also the one porting the head so he may have data to show that the larger intake valve will breathe better.

 

Import Performance Parts http://www.importperformanceparts.net/ seems to have many of the parts on my list at great prices... Does anyone here have any feed back on them?

 

no i meant stock, i thought the carillo's where really beefy but very strong

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BABY NSX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just wanted some opinions on my planned engine rebuild. I’ve got a B18C5 with a little over 100,000km on it so I think its time to freshen her up. I’m going to be starting my shopping soon so I thought I would show you guys my current list:

Head:
- Fully port and polished by Gord Busch Performance (in Mississauga)
- Port matched intake manifold
- Rocket Motorsports M22 cams (or perhaps Skunk2 Stage2)
- Skunk2 cam gears (SKU304-05-5202)
- Ferrea +1mm intake valves (F6044)
- Ferrea exhaust valves (F6049)
- Ferrea valve springs (S10070)
- Ferrea Ti retainers (E11000)
- Ferrea Seat locators (SL1004)
- Ferrea Valve locks (K10034
- ARP head studs (208-4303)
Bottome end:
- Weseco Pistons (K566M815)
- Carrillo Rods (AA-VTC-A-55433H)
- ARP Main Studs (108-5403)
Other:
- RC 310 injectors
- Honda Bearings
- Honda Valve seals
- Honda head gasket

Parts I already have:
- Mugen intake
- Mugen twin loop
- High-flow cat
- Spoon header
- Hondata S300
- PLX R-500

Gord Busch Performance (in Mississauga) is going to do the build.

My goal is to hit 200-210 WHP with a reliable and rev friendly engine that will see a mix of street and track time.

Any thoughts?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Doug everything looks good.


There's things on the list though, that really are not required. Like the connecting rods, your oem ITR rods will be fine. This is assuming that your still staying N/A. Although if u have the money they won't hurt.

ARP Main Studs are not required at all. I made a old post asking for opnions about it and they educated me about it. I'll search for it if u need.


Oh yeah, Ferra makes different valve springs, see what the max lift and coil bind of the springs you have are.

Lastly the rc 310's may not be large enough for your hp goals, 370cc sound about right.

 

things that i think you wouldn't need like the ARP head studs, hondata s300&lt;&lt;s200 would be fine already, and plus i think the spoon headers are a waste, i would rather spend that money on the stock JDM ITR headers or the JDM DC Sports headers or the JUN if your rich. all those three headers are awsome for N/A C1 or C5 engines. just rebuilt your C5 motor with stock enternal parts with some new JDM ITR pistons and upgrade valve train and port & polish with a well balanced bottom block and you should see no problem with hitting 200WHP on the ITR. well...good luck on the built

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wildoutwhitegsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Doug everything looks good.


There's things on the list though, that really are not required. Like the connecting rods, your oem ITR rods will be fine. This is assuming that your still staying N/A. Although if u have the money they won't hurt.

ARP Main Studs are not required at all. I made a old post asking for opnions about it and they educated me about it. I'll search for it if u need.


Oh yeah, Ferra makes different valve springs, see what the max lift and coil bind of the springs you have are.

Lastly the rc 310's may not be large enough for your hp goals, 370cc sound about right.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Great feedback Trenell

I'm choosing to go with the Carrillo rods because I want to free up as much weight as possible inside the engine, see below.

The Ferrea springs that I'm planning on using are one of their endurance springs which, after speaking with Ferrea, should be very comfortable spinning up to and beyond 10k RPM. These springs have a max lift of 14mm.

With a rev happy bottom end and valve train I'm hopping that Gord can find a way to allow the engine to breath up there and make it pay off.

I’ll consider changing my injectors to 370s.

See if you can find that thread on the Main Studs. I’ll also discuss this with Gord to see what he thinks.

Thanks!

NA_B18C1,

Not sure why your hating the spoon header so much. I remember a test done on this site many years ago (the great header test) and the spoon header actually made the most power when you integrated it over the entire curve. Now I know there have been advances since then (and I’ll be looking into them) but in my book the spoon header is still a very effective piece.

 

Here you go https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1524314

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wildoutwhitegsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here you go https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1524314</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks, that was a useful read!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BABY NSX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

NA_B18C1,

Not sure why your hating the spoon header so much. I remember a test done on this site many years ago (the great header test) and the spoon header actually made the most power when you integrated it over the entire curve. Now I know there have been advances since then (and I’ll be looking into them) but in my book the spoon header is still a very effective piece.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Me neither.

Key element for your recommendation for BABY NSX to keep his motor internally stock is to have a good intake, HEADER, exhaust system

For him to put a JDM DC or JDM 4-1 is a step backwards. Spoon and Toda are still considered amongst some of the best off the shelf headers and they demand the price that they do, used and new.

FWIW, I will never EVER get a mild steel header since my cars roam around the snow belt region and there is salt on the roads from November to late February.

SS fTW.

 

Bump for more input

 

i would substitute the ferrea stuff for supertech...save a bunch of money there

supertech stuff is top shelf...

i would add new bronze valve guides to the list
i would also substitute 370cc injectors instead of the 310cc if you are running high compression and stage 2+ cams

sell the spoon and buy a toda

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would substitute the ferrea stuff for supertech...save a bunch of money there

supertech stuff is top shelf...

i would add new bronze valve guides to the list
i would also substitute 370cc injectors instead of the 310cc if you are running high compression and stage 2+ cams

sell the spoon and buy a toda</TD></TR></TABLE>


Unfortunately because you are a retailer for supertech I cannot take your advice on the valve train substitution without some consideration. My builder (who is not selling me the valve train components) suggested I go with Ferrea because he has had zero problems with them. They certainly cost more then other valve train components but that doesn't concern me so much IF they are the most highly recommended.

If there are others who can suggest supertech or other valvetrain components with good engineering (not cost) reasons why… I’m listening.

Ferrea told me that there valve guides are made from the same material as Honda's valve guides, so their valves work with OE guides just fine. Of course if my valve guides are showing signs of wear they will be replaced.

The spoon header will be reviewed once I’ve got the initial dyno’s done and I can see how much of a bottle neck it will be.

Thanks,
Doug