The title says alot. EDIT: My bad... it's a 2000 GSR block (with hole)

I have a 2000 GSR block with a hole in it... can't really afford another bare GSR block and need the car running as soon as possible.
I already have/ordered new pistons/rods for damaged block and would prefer NOT to go lsvt on this project (all motor).
Can or should I:
Swap the GSR internals into my B16a block (has squirters). *Any problems with this ?
or
Swap the GSR internals into a 94 or 97 LS block (no oil passages or squirters)

I have the entire GSR block and internals... everything... in the car.
None of these blocks have knock sensors, so I would assume I have to swap that over too and do the modificatons to fit.

Please help... what can I do here ?


[Modified by X2BOARD, 2:42 PM 4/29/2002]

 

You're going to have to modify some things if you plan on trying to use ur B16 block. It would be way easier to swap it into an LS block but if you plan on doing that i would just get an LS crank and rods.. I think that this would be ur ideal setup. Have fun

 

The deck height on the B16 block is too low for the B18C crank/rods/pistons. You could put your internals in an LS block but then you have to make a quasi-LSVTEC of it with an external oil line for the VTEC solenoid etc. Also see if you can salvage the main cap girdle from the GSR block and transfer it over to the LS block. I think you need the girdle itself plus the GSR windage tray and oil pan, maybe a couple other things I'm forgetting.

 

Why does everyone that has responded to this and previous posts recommend the LS block over the B16 ? The B16 being a Vtec block is not helpful ?

What would need to be done to a B16 block to make this work (curious) ?

EDIT: Late response to post


[Modified by X2BOARD, 4:17 PM 4/29/2002]

 

you would have to get custom rods and pistons to make a 1.8 crank work in a
b16a block.

 

Or add 20mm to the deck.

 

Thanks for that... now I can put my mind at ease with the B16 block... So the LS block would be the alternative.... Hmmmm....
So I would need to add the knock sensor and squirters...
Oh well... yet another mission.

 

If you have forged pistons, you don't need the squirters. The forged units carry the heat away just fine. The knock sensor is also easy. You could weld a bung or just retap one of your bolt holes on the back to accept the knock sensor. You'll also ge able to use the gsr oil cooler, but the block will need a nipple tapped from the water jacket? Kenji has better (more accurate) info on this.

HTH

 

KEWL... thanks. I'll be running forged pistons with the larger oil jackets... so that's good news...

 

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