a couple years ago i put ST sways on my lude and left the rest of the suspension stock. well both bolt holes on one side where the front bar mounts to the body ripped out of the subframe, so i swapped the subframe. so recently i lowered my **** with koni yellows HR race and ES bushings so i put the bars back on....and now the rear one is starting rip out. the holes and threads are aight, but the metal around the holes is cracked pretty bad, like a rectangle with 2 sides cracked. what are my options??? if i were to weld a plate on there would i need a plate on the other side to keep the bar sitting even?? and could i use regular steel our would i have to use aluminum...i dont want it to oxidize or whatever. help a brother out fellas

 

same thing happend to me with my progress bar

i had a shop weld the bracket to the frame and also a peice of steel to the side of the frame for more support

 

why do you think the sway bar got ripped out? was it the 3-way adjustable progress bar?

 

Progress gives you these heavy-duty brackets with their sway bar. Maybe you could just buy a set from them.



Or you could make some from stainless steel...shouldn't be too hard.

 

did they use steel when they welded that? i think ive read that our subframes are part aluminum...might just be the front. we have a welder at work so thats not a problem im just wondering how i need to rig it.

sniper: you dont have a plate on the other side right? do you know how thick that steel is?

i like the looks of that progress bar and have heard good things...im a little disappointed with the STs...

 

Don't be disappointed... how old is your stock suspension? It is probably quite soft... All you need is some good brackets and you'll be set!

Mind you... I personally wouldn't put a stiff sway bar until I had put some coil-overs... Researching on HT every product before you buy it is a very good way to minimize trouble later

 

I'm running Neuspeed race springs with Koni yellow SP3s with a progress rear bar and of course the brackets it comes with on the stiffest setting and have had no problems yet. It makes a world of difference the car handles so much better now

 

i think mine ripped out when i started using the kumho slicks on autox races
the thing hugged corners like no other without any tire squeal

 

i had been riding on soft stock suspension with the STs for maybe 6 months, this was a few years ago and since i had to take them off theyve been sitting in the garage. a month ago i got hr race and konis so i put them back on...but now that i think about it, i remember hearing the clicking of the bracket back when i had stock suspension, but i never heard it with the stock rear bar. soooo i guess im gonna try welding something like sniper posted above...thanx fellas

 

STOOOOOOOOPPPPPP...
just trying to save you a trip to the hospital. The gas tank vent is to the left of where you will be welding..if one spark gets there...say bye bye.. when i did mine i took out my gas tank to be safe..i also helped a friend but all we di was stuff 15 water soaked rags up into the duct area..it worked but it was only about 1 minute worth of welding. The more you need to weld the more dangerous. BTW drilling bolt holes and making an adapter plate worked alot better...but if you dont mind having to weld a lot depending on your driving habits...go for it
good l;uck

 

ehhhhh im pretty sure the gas tank is vented to the charcoal canister only because otherwise the gas would evaporate and pollute. the gas tank is pressurized when driving and goes to the evap system when you shut off the car. this is why the gas cap hisses when you get gas. the filler neck is right there, but thats sealed and the only vent is by the firewall up front. props to you for being cautious but imho it wasnt necessary

 

yeah
the shop i took mine to to have it welded removed the filler hose half way and covered it with fire blankets and such

and another plate wouldnt have been welded on the other side because it was blocked

i originally asked them to box in the frame but they were only able to do one side...the iner sides

if it happens again...they will fix it for free anyways
i paid $200 for that welding done..
a little steep...but lifetime warranty against their work was worth it