Calling all Prelude Master Mechanics......
Sup everyone, been a long time since ive been on here. Been real busy with work and other things. Unfortunately i will be visiting here ALOT more now because this past thursday i Hydrolocked my 98 SH. It wa raining like crazy and when i left work i hit about a foot of water. it was raining so hard i couldnt even see infront of me.
Anyways, after removing water from 2 cylinders and drying everything and installing new spark plugs i tried firing it up with no luck. I did a compression test and 2 cylinders read 25 and the other 2 were at 0. Nice.
I took off the valve cover and i could not tell if there is anydamage to the cams of valves, so my mind tells me either all the piston rings are gone, i warped the head, blew the head gasket or bent some rods. I will be removing the oil pan tommorow to check on that.
So depending on how much damage i have done and how much it will be to repair, i might just get a new engine instead of rebuilding this one. Im looking for a SH motor so i can swap it fast but if a Base motor/tranny or JDM Type-S motor tranny will bolt up to an SH frame and suspension i will swap in a base or Type-S.
Does anyone know if a Type S or Base motor will drop into an SH with out having to change out any suspension parts? I know i will have to get new driveshafts but is there any additional parts i will need to drop a Type-S or base in the SH Lude?
Thanks in advance everyone.
Chris
Anyways, after removing water from 2 cylinders and drying everything and installing new spark plugs i tried firing it up with no luck. I did a compression test and 2 cylinders read 25 and the other 2 were at 0. Nice.
I took off the valve cover and i could not tell if there is anydamage to the cams of valves, so my mind tells me either all the piston rings are gone, i warped the head, blew the head gasket or bent some rods. I will be removing the oil pan tommorow to check on that.
So depending on how much damage i have done and how much it will be to repair, i might just get a new engine instead of rebuilding this one. Im looking for a SH motor so i can swap it fast but if a Base motor/tranny or JDM Type-S motor tranny will bolt up to an SH frame and suspension i will swap in a base or Type-S.
Does anyone know if a Type S or Base motor will drop into an SH with out having to change out any suspension parts? I know i will have to get new driveshafts but is there any additional parts i will need to drop a Type-S or base in the SH Lude?
Thanks in advance everyone.
Chris
try getting some oil in those cylinders, drop some in there and crank it around a bit, then repeat, that oughta build some compression....
let us know how that goes, to get it in there, pull the fuel pump fuse and all the spark plugs, basically you want no fuel no spark, then crank it around a bunch after you drop some oil into the cylinders
let us know how that goes, to get it in there, pull the fuel pump fuse and all the spark plugs, basically you want no fuel no spark, then crank it around a bunch after you drop some oil into the cylinders
So the Type-S is a straight drop into the SH, best ive found it online is for $3600 for engine and tranny.
Ive found base engines/trannys for $2700.
SH engines seem to be rare in the onine community and local junk yards.
Anyone who has done a base into SH know what other things are needed to complete the swap? If it adds up to the Type-S engine cost i might as well buy that.
Ive found base engines/trannys for $2700.
SH engines seem to be rare in the onine community and local junk yards.
Anyone who has done a base into SH know what other things are needed to complete the swap? If it adds up to the Type-S engine cost i might as well buy that.
I believe you'll need the ECU, but don't hold me to this. You'll defenitly need the driverside base Axle cause of the intermediate shaft
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Revi-Ra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So the Type-S is a straight drop into the SH, best ive found it online is for $3600 for engine and tranny.
Ive found base engines/trannys for $2700.
SH engines seem to be rare in the onine community and local junk yards.
Anyone who has done a base into SH know what other things are needed to complete the swap? If it adds up to the Type-S engine cost i might as well buy that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
not that i have done this swap or even talked to anyone who has, but the obvious necessities are going to be axles like prelude1897 said, and youre gonna need to ditch the whole atts system and ecu and all, and get your hands on a base ecu with the immobilizer and all taken care of, otherwise im thinkin it should be the same, but, i repeat, i haven't done it and can't say for sure.....
Ive found base engines/trannys for $2700.
SH engines seem to be rare in the onine community and local junk yards.
Anyone who has done a base into SH know what other things are needed to complete the swap? If it adds up to the Type-S engine cost i might as well buy that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
not that i have done this swap or even talked to anyone who has, but the obvious necessities are going to be axles like prelude1897 said, and youre gonna need to ditch the whole atts system and ecu and all, and get your hands on a base ecu with the immobilizer and all taken care of, otherwise im thinkin it should be the same, but, i repeat, i haven't done it and can't say for sure.....
So if i decide to replace my pistons and rods with OEM parts, do i need to re-sleeve the block? Or can i install new pistons assuming the cylinders are not scratched up? Also, what do you think the chances are i warped or did any damage to the head? Im hopping i only blew the piston rings and not bent any rods.
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It is also possible that you broke the piston ring lands, which would mess up the cylinder the more you turn it over, I would not try turning it over anymore because it obviously is going to need some repair and by turning it you are just more likely to do more damage to it. Depending on your experience with engines it might be wise to just order a whole new motor as you mentioned. If you have the money to afford a new motor and you have not ever rebuilt a motor before you should probably just buy a full replacement. You can always tinker with the motor later on if you get a new one, or sell it... just my thoughts
so there is a possibility that the rings could just be washed down and puting oil in the cylinders could fix that, but at the same time if the rings are shot, cranking it over could cause more damage to the cylinder walls. great.
I have no problem rebuilding the engine as i am experience enought mechanicaly, its the time the get it fixed that im more concerned about. I would like to get it fixed quick but it will be cheaper if i can just replace what broke down, it will just take more time that way.
So there is no possibility that the head gasket could be causing the compression issue? Im trying to find people who have hydrolocked and tell me what broke down after they took the engine apart.
Im gonna go try some things out and get back here in a bit.
I have no problem rebuilding the engine as i am experience enought mechanicaly, its the time the get it fixed that im more concerned about. I would like to get it fixed quick but it will be cheaper if i can just replace what broke down, it will just take more time that way.
So there is no possibility that the head gasket could be causing the compression issue? Im trying to find people who have hydrolocked and tell me what broke down after they took the engine apart.
Im gonna go try some things out and get back here in a bit.
So i put a bit of oil in all the cylinders, cranked it up a bit and compression went up. In one cylinder as much as 275psi...? So after trunning it over with out the fuel pump fuse in. I gave it a shot with everything on and just as it sounded like it was gonna turn on i hear a loud BANG and the engine dies out. It wouldnt turn over by key but it did turn over by hand.
While i was turning the engine over at the crank some kind of liquid came shooting out the #4 cylinder. Now i was 110% sure all the water was out of the cylinders and intake manifold before i tried to fire it up again, so i have no idea where this fluid came from. It looks like it could be coolant which means the head gasket is gone.
Im done trying to turn it on, im gonna take off the head to see if it was the head gasket. I dont think i broke a rod because i checked and all the pistons are going up and down. Well see what happens next, this sucks.
While i was turning the engine over at the crank some kind of liquid came shooting out the #4 cylinder. Now i was 110% sure all the water was out of the cylinders and intake manifold before i tried to fire it up again, so i have no idea where this fluid came from. It looks like it could be coolant which means the head gasket is gone.
Im done trying to turn it on, im gonna take off the head to see if it was the head gasket. I dont think i broke a rod because i checked and all the pistons are going up and down. Well see what happens next, this sucks.
As far as I know you should be able to drop in a base engine/tranny w/o any mechanical problems. But I have not done it, I may be doing it in about 4 months, but looks like you need info now.
As stated, you will need the base axles and intermediate shaft. Sensors and wiring should be the same (other than not hooking up the ATTS).
Depending on where your located, if you want to sell the SH engine/tranny/atts let me know. I might want to pick it up.
As stated, you will need the base axles and intermediate shaft. Sensors and wiring should be the same (other than not hooking up the ATTS).
Depending on where your located, if you want to sell the SH engine/tranny/atts let me know. I might want to pick it up.
possible that cylinders that were at 0 psi have broken rods. you said you checked, but are you positive?
my motor hydrolocked on me about a month and a half ago. wouldnt start or turn over at first. i knew nothing of hydrolocking, so i kept at it, trying to start it. got it on eventually, with rod knock.
changed oil (which had water in it), put in 10w-40 instead of usual 5w-30. seemed like the knock went away. not that oil will fix a mechanical problem, i was just told it might help. did for a while, then...
two weeks later, rod #4 shot out of the block in pieces, leaving big holes on both sides and a huge oil slick behind me like in mario kart.
oil pan was full of a mixture of oil, coolant, and for some reason, fuel (at least it smelled like it).
car now has another H23 in it, and my CAI has been made into an SRI
hydrolock = death
my motor hydrolocked on me about a month and a half ago. wouldnt start or turn over at first. i knew nothing of hydrolocking, so i kept at it, trying to start it. got it on eventually, with rod knock.
changed oil (which had water in it), put in 10w-40 instead of usual 5w-30. seemed like the knock went away. not that oil will fix a mechanical problem, i was just told it might help. did for a while, then...
two weeks later, rod #4 shot out of the block in pieces, leaving big holes on both sides and a huge oil slick behind me like in mario kart.
oil pan was full of a mixture of oil, coolant, and for some reason, fuel (at least it smelled like it).
car now has another H23 in it, and my CAI has been made into an SRI
hydrolock = death
Well ive started to take the engine out so i can take it apart and inspect it. If this engine has to many things broken i will sell it out, if not i plan to rebuild. I put long thin sticks down each sparkplug hole and turned the engine by hand and all the cylinders where moving up and down. Seemed like the same amount of distance.
Hopefully i didnt do any damage to the cylinder walls. I will take pics once i discover whats wrong.
Hopefully i didnt do any damage to the cylinder walls. I will take pics once i discover whats wrong.
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