The car: 2000 Civic Si with stock B16
The mods: AEM SRI, ACCEL wires, DC Sports Header, other various things not done to the engine.
The goal: Get this fixed before I install a JRSC
What I have replaced: New plugs (did it with either factory Denso platinums), new cap (aftermarket.....looks a little scored inside....problem?), new rotor button (Honda), Fuel filter recently replaced (Honda), valve adjustment at 30K, etc.


The car will run fine while out of VTEC, once in VTEC the car will begin to lose power and buck like its misfiring. I have not checked for any codes yet (work at Honda so no problem to do it).

I added some CD-2 fuel injector cleaner to the tank with some fresh premium fuel and its still doing it.

I have removed the VTEC solenoid, and inspected/cleaned the screen. I had at one point a ACCEL coil in it, but put the factory one back in.

I am going to my brothers house this evening and will see how it does. I think I might look into a Honda cap and go from there.

Only other thing I can think of is possibly the MAP sensor or TPS sensor.

Anyone?

Oh and stock ECM/PCM

 

have u checked ur oil lately?

 

codes?have you done a COMPLETE tune-up recently?checked ignition timing?
chris

 

sounds simplistic but ..
i would say check your oil as well..
happened to me, changed my oil, was fine.

 

Yeah check your oil. The thinner the oil the worse your VTEC will run. Change your oil and you'll be fine.
BTW I use "restore4" in all the cars I buy and it will make it run smoother and sound deeper when on the throttle and vtec.

 

ok, you said aftermarket distro cap? just because my car crapped out on the highway 99si, Ill say, keep oem distrib cap and rotor... Mine literally, cracked apart and exploaded inside... it was the one the guy before put on, changed them to OEM, (50$...) and it runs like a champ... worth the money, but just for kicks, open it up and take a look. Mine ran like yours before it blew up in there.

 

It is overdue for an oil change. So I will def. do that monday. Also it HAD an aftermarket rotor button on it that was broken, car ran no different. I replaced with OEM, but I could see the quality of the parts was laughable.

Thanks and will try out these suggestions.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bonylad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The car: 2000 Civic Si with stock B16
The mods: AEM SRI, ACCEL wires, DC Sports Header, other various things not done to the engine.
The goal: Get this fixed before I install a JRSC
What I have replaced: New plugs (did it with either factory Denso platinums), new cap (aftermarket.....looks a little scored inside....problem?), new rotor button (Honda), Fuel filter recently replaced (Honda), valve adjustment at 30K, etc.


The car will run fine while out of VTEC, once in VTEC the car will begin to lose power and buck like its misfiring. I have not checked for any codes yet (work at Honda so no problem to do it).

I added some CD-2 fuel injector cleaner to the tank with some fresh premium fuel and its still doing it.

I have removed the VTEC solenoid, and inspected/cleaned the screen. I had at one point a ACCEL coil in it, but put the factory one back in.

I am going to my brothers house this evening and will see how it does. I think I might look into a Honda cap and go from there.

Only other thing I can think of is possibly the MAP sensor or TPS sensor.

Anyone?

Oh and stock ECM/PCM</TD></TR></TABLE>
first thing u sould do is check the dam codes if its throwing them cars dont throw codes for the hell of it

 

i will. we are closed on weekends, so i will do it monday.

i know they dont throw codes for the hell of it, i am not a newb to this. i have to wait to get to the pgm tester. i cant pull codes out of my ***. lol.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bonylad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i cant pull codes out of my ***. lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no,but you can take a piece of wire,paperclip,fork,etc. and jump the short connector
chris

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamNextGenChris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
no,but you can take a piece of wire,paperclip,fork,etc. and jump the short connector chris</TD></TR></TABLE>

To be more specific, Chris is referring to this link https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1171263.

-Shane

 

Thanks for the info. I; however, have a 2000 Civic which is OBD 2. The link and info provided is for OBD 1 cars. I will have to wait till monday.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bonylad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the info. I; however, have a 2000 Civic which is OBD 2. The link and info provided is for OBD 1 cars. I will have to wait till monday.</TD></TR></TABLE>
your car still has the short connector.you can still retrieve codes.
Chris

 

Oh? Sorry the link said 92-95 Civic. Thought thats what it was referring too.

 

Get YEC or NGK distributor cap. YEC = dealer oem.

 

Replaced the oil and filter, also installed an OEM cap. Problem seemed to get better
but its still there.

I installed some fresh plugs (Bosch Platinum) but still no dice.

NO codes either.

On the way here, it popped on accel. I was merging with traffic and I heard a pop
sound from underneath. Backfire? Its got a stock exhaust with a header and intake. Backpressure too much?

I dunno.

Suggestions? I think I will check the MAP and TPS sensor voltages. Also the timing has been advanced a little so maybe I will set it back.

 

Did you check your oil pressure yet? I was having a similar problem and found out after I installed an oil pressure gauge, that I am only hitting up to 50 psi in vtec. Just a thought.

-Shane

 

No not yet, I work at the Honda dealership in my city, and I was on ISIS. I reveiwed the old test data in the PCM and at one point I had a 1259 (VTEC)
A LONG time ago. Long before this was even an issue. It runs fine up to
redline (with VTEC disengaged)...so I dont think its an ignition issue?

I am putting the stock plugs back in and will see what happens.

I want to take the PGM tester home and drive with it to see what triggers it.

I will reiterate. I have checked the solenoid. The screen was clear and I cleared it anyways, the solenoid "plunger" works fine.

Next time I have it in the air I will check the oil pressure. If its an oil pressure issue? What does that mean? Oil pump? Or what?

 

Dude i think that your ride is not getting enough fuel

 

Have you ever changed your fuel filter???

 

Yes, I have installed a new OEM filter. I have not check the fuel pressure yet.

 

I reinstalled the stock plugs. No difference.

The spark plugs I installed 2 days ago are sooted up. Fuel? Like its misfiring?

I might go ahead and reinstall the factory wires too. I dont see how that would help but you never know.

Chris

 

Please keep the ideas coming.

Bump if you read please.

 

do u have a aftermarket fuel pressure regulator?

 

Nope.

I just replaced the ACCEL wires with the factory wires, and I may be speaking early here....but I think the problem is gone.

Will post back as soon as I know.