Remember when we talked about how PY paint would come off on your sponge when waxing?

Well here's another wierd one - I was wiping the car dry after a wash (with water only) and I noticed yellow paint on the cloth. WTF? Maybe it was sitting in the sun too long?

This only happened on the roof, which is the only part of the car that hasn't been re-painted before from vandals, etc.

Thanks for your ideas!

 

damn thats retarded.

 

My R is at 91,000 miles it sits in the sun alot, and I wax it weekly - I have not had this problem.

Are you sure you didn't have any wax or bug & tar remover on the roof when you were wiping it clean? Also, can you see any blemishes or imperfections in the roof since you've done this? I'd say give it a real good clay bar and waxing to protect it!

 

sadly this happens to mine too...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ProjektR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sadly this happens to mine too... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Happened to mine until I got it repainted and something like 6 coats of clearcoat.

http://i11.photobucket.com/alb...2.jpg

= teh slick

 

try getting some duragloss 105 and aquawax. apply it and then after each wash spray on the aquawax.

Its pretty cheap stuff and works almost as well as Zaino, it should solve ur problem by creating a protective barrier

 

now i would think that your clearcoat has deteriorated

 

Thanks for the ideas guys. I'll do a search, but I thought the clear coat was part of the paint itself. I'll just keep it waxed regularly, and sadly if it gets fubar, I'll have to take it to the bodyshop.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec4lyfe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> now i would think that your clearcoat has deteriorated</TD></TR></TABLE>

Talk about beating a dead horse

PY's have no clearcoat. They are a single stage paint process, which means (drumroll) .........................there is no clearcoat. That would explain why waxing causes the paint to rub off on the applicator. PY is real tough to keep looking nice, I washed mine weekly and all that did was dull the already dull PY paint. Good luck

 

Very interesting... I thought all factory paint jobs had clearcoat

 

Nope, they don't.

I have this EXACT same problem with my PY ITR... Which is why I'm getting her repainted two-stage instead of single-stage. I want her to shine.

 

so is it only PY that got single stage paint? WHat bout CW or NBPL?

 

I don't know if that's accurate. Paint from the factory is the best paint you can put on your car. If you take your car to most paint shops they won't even be able to match factory grade, they always say "As good as the dealership" But they never say as good as factory.

Now I'm not saying that there is a clear coat or there isn't a clear coat. All I'm saying is I wax mine just about every chance I get, and sure every single time I do it I get yellow on my cloth, but that's normal for waxing a car. Wax a blue car and you'll get blue on your rag. It's just getting rid of dead paint, to help it shine. Just keep it waxed as often as possible and you'll be gtg!

 

the factory paint isnt made by HONDA. if thats what you are thinking, if you take it to the dealer they will use anything from dupont to basf, to Spies hecker, to sherwin williams ect. and also since PY IS single stage you are gonna get a little bit of ruboff unless you get a reapinted with a base,clear. PY from the factory is a single stange urethane based paint. its only gona hold up so long, and when and if you get it repainted it will MOST LIKELY be done base/clear unless you want a single stage job, which sucks IMO

 

Applying car wax doesn't make the paint come off. Read on...

There are a couple of common ways in which paint can come off on your towel.

1. If the paint has oxidized (usually from sitting out in the sun, especially unwaxed), you may be rubbing off the oxidized paint. It's not exactly the same thing. Think of a steel car part that is rusting. Is rubbing off the rust the same thing as rubbing off the metal? Not exactly. Sort of.

2. If you are using an abrasive product (like a so-called "cleaner wax" or "swirl mark remover"), it is designed to buff down the layer of paint to smooth it out. So yes, it will remove wax.

Obviously, paint coming off is not a good thing. That's why most detailing experts recommend that if you want to protect your finish, you should use at least three steps: (1) wash the car; (2) use a pre-wax cleaner to remove oxidation and light swirl marks (this can be a clay bar product or a non-abrasive cleaner like Zymol HD-Cleanse or an abrasive like Meguiar's #9 Swirl Mark Remover; some people use a clay bar AND another product, even better); (3) apply a coat of wax or protectant on top to protect the finish and prevent further oxidation.

 

[QUOTE=LunchboxZTI wax mine just about every chance I get, and sure every single time I do it I get yellow on my cloth, but that's normal for waxing a car. Wax a blue car and you'll get blue on your rag. It's just getting rid of dead paint, to help it shine. Just keep it waxed as often as possible and you'll be gtg![/QUOTE]

Not true at all, wax a car w/ a clearcoat that's pink for all I care, and guess what , NO PINK. Unless you've eaten through the clearcoat on a clearcoated car you will not get color on the rag

 

hmmm (shrug) well, I have yet to have a problem with the paint on my R. aside from chips on the front bumper, it appears to be holding up OK. And, correct me if I'm wrong, but as nsxtacy stated it's not the paint thats wearing off it's the oxidized paint, and therefor not damaging / "rubbing off" the paint itself.

Are you saying that if you wax a car without a clear coat you're damaging or "erodeing" at the paint? I'm a bit confused.

 

I wax my Audi every wash... Never had any paint come off on the pad. Know why? Because it has a clear coat.

Now when I wax my R... Ha... I don't wax it anymore, I was getting tired of seeing more and more yellow come off with every wax. Whatever, it's getting repainted soon anyway.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was getting tired of seeing more and more yellow come off with every wax.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Then your car's finish is in really bad shape, and/or you're not bothering to prep the paint before waxing, and/or you're using the wrong kind of wax.

I NEVER see any yellow on my towels when I'm waxing (I use Zymol Japon). And I don't see any yellow when I'm prepping (with Zymol HD-Cleanse), either. The only time I've ever seen yellow is when I'm buffing down a paint problem (scratches, etc) with Meguiar's #9 Swirl Mark Remover.

 

I'm no professional detailer, and my paint's not perfect (It's a bit faded, nothing severe), but I definately get some yellow on the pad everytime I wax. A guy I know with another '00 PY ITR had the same problem, and he works at a car wash, and probably knows a bit more about exterior car care than I.

What wax would you recommend? Zymol Japon? Can I buy that at any conventional autoparts store? And what kind of prep work are you talking about?

Please excuse my ignorance, I know practically nothing about this.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What wax would you recommend? Zymol Japon? Can I buy that at any conventional autoparts store? And what kind of prep work are you talking about?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I like Zymol Japon, which is a high-quality carnauba-based car wax. It has 37 percent carnauba. Most mass-market carnauba-based car waxes only have 3-5 percent carnauba. There are a few others with high carnauba content, including Pinnacle and Griot's Garage, I believe. Carnauba provides a superior depth to the finish. Some other people prefer synthetic products for their gloss, but they don't have as much depth.

No, you can't get Zymol Japon at your neighborhood auto parts store. You can get it from Zymol's website, or one of their dealers, which tend to be a few high-end car accessories stores; they have a dealer locator on their website.

However, your neighborhood auto parts store does have decent brands, such as Meguiar's and Mother's. The real key to great results in detailing is using the three-step process described above, with whatever brand of products you prefer (and can easily buy). Prep products include clay bars (all brands sell these), Zymol HD-Cleanse, and the Meguiar's Swirl Remover (which I prefer not to use on a routine basis, since it is abrasive).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Please excuse my ignorance, I know practically nothing about this.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The Autopia website has a lot of pretty good detailing advice. You can also find good advice on the websites of the various detailing product manufacturers, including:

Zymol
Meguiar's
Mother's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RGoose18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Talk about beating a dead horse

PY's have no clearcoat. They are a single stage paint process, which means (drumroll) .........................there is no clearcoat. That would explain why waxing causes the paint to rub off on the applicator. PY is real tough to keep looking nice, I washed mine weekly and all that did was dull the already dull PY paint. Good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>

my py R still looks brand new. The paint is 6 years old and it still shines. I hardly wash it b/c i find that it doesnt get dirty. My last car was black and I had to wash it every freakin 3rd day

I guess it all depends on how it was maintained from day one