My B20/vtec build up
I decided to put together a mild 2.0 engine for my own car. Here is the parts list:
Stock jdm b20B block, 84mm bore
oem rods with arp rod bolts
RS machine 84mm cast pistons
new oem honda oil and water pump, timing belt
golden eagle complete ls/vtec adapter kit
AEBS headstuds
P72 GSR head, new oem itr valves. RM gen 2 springs/retainers ctr intake cam/gsr ex
Shelf skunk2 intake manifold (older style, not pro series)
Skunk 2 cam gears
SMSP B18 header
Maxbore 67-64mm bored oem 99 civic si throttle body
B20 dist, new oem plug wires, NGK BKR7E plugs
p28 ecu, hondata s100
ACT prolite flywheel, exedy stage 1 organic clutch.
I got a 1995 GSR head locally, from an engine that had hydrolocked. The bottom end was really screwed but the head looked to be mint, also it came with a skunk 2 intake and STR fuel rail and cam seal. For $300 it was in my hands.

I brought it to a local guy who specializes in cylinder heads. Upon learning my build goals, he suggested new exhaust valve guides (yes cut down also)deshroud the chamber to match the 84mm bore, and a competition valve job. I agreed, and the work came out great.

This was done on a digital newen machine. Very impressive looking equipment and he already had some dimensions in the computer he had saved from previous b-series valve jobs.

New oem itr valves with RM gen 2 springs and retainers. Installed height was 1.340. I have the other specs, but don't feel the need to list them.

I had the crank "serviced" the right way by removing the press in plug ***** in the oil galley. Even though this engine was clean, there was a disgusting amount of sludge build up behind them. I had heard of this before but this was the first time I saw with my own eyes. It was balanced of course and the journals were polished.

I painstakingly degreased, cleaned, prepped and painted the block with rebuilders cast aluminum finish made by plastikote.

I got carried away, and forgot to take any good pictures of the bottom end assembly. I used standard acl bearings. I wanted to use the "R" bearings, but I did'nt.

Here is the finished bottom end assembly. For anyone considering these pistons, I measured .010 piston to deck height. Leaving me at a sketchy .036 quench clearance
The arias rings supplied with them had to much gap in the top rings, I tryed digging up a different set with no luck, I also tried oem b20 rings, which were different thickness. I decided to put it together anyways. Next time I will spend a bit more and get wiseco or cp for sure.


Working on rewiring my 15 year old engine harness for some newer parts.

I have a J1 B16a cable trans with this nice quaife lsd
This engine has been running great. Just going off a basemap chip and 240cc, I cannot believe the response. but I have not driven it much on the road yet, busy fabricating a good pcv system and it will be tuned before really being romped on. I'd like to get together a similar block, and prep the head for some pro2 camshaft and itbs this winter. I will have this engine at the dyno very shortly, not expecting the world from this one, its very mild.
Modified by Runnerdown at 3:18 AM 1/31/2007
Stock jdm b20B block, 84mm bore
oem rods with arp rod bolts
RS machine 84mm cast pistons
new oem honda oil and water pump, timing belt
golden eagle complete ls/vtec adapter kit
AEBS headstuds
P72 GSR head, new oem itr valves. RM gen 2 springs/retainers ctr intake cam/gsr ex
Shelf skunk2 intake manifold (older style, not pro series)
Skunk 2 cam gears
SMSP B18 header
Maxbore 67-64mm bored oem 99 civic si throttle body
B20 dist, new oem plug wires, NGK BKR7E plugs
p28 ecu, hondata s100
ACT prolite flywheel, exedy stage 1 organic clutch.
I got a 1995 GSR head locally, from an engine that had hydrolocked. The bottom end was really screwed but the head looked to be mint, also it came with a skunk 2 intake and STR fuel rail and cam seal. For $300 it was in my hands.

I brought it to a local guy who specializes in cylinder heads. Upon learning my build goals, he suggested new exhaust valve guides (yes cut down also)deshroud the chamber to match the 84mm bore, and a competition valve job. I agreed, and the work came out great.

This was done on a digital newen machine. Very impressive looking equipment and he already had some dimensions in the computer he had saved from previous b-series valve jobs.

New oem itr valves with RM gen 2 springs and retainers. Installed height was 1.340. I have the other specs, but don't feel the need to list them.

I had the crank "serviced" the right way by removing the press in plug ***** in the oil galley. Even though this engine was clean, there was a disgusting amount of sludge build up behind them. I had heard of this before but this was the first time I saw with my own eyes. It was balanced of course and the journals were polished.

I painstakingly degreased, cleaned, prepped and painted the block with rebuilders cast aluminum finish made by plastikote.

I got carried away, and forgot to take any good pictures of the bottom end assembly. I used standard acl bearings. I wanted to use the "R" bearings, but I did'nt.

Here is the finished bottom end assembly. For anyone considering these pistons, I measured .010 piston to deck height. Leaving me at a sketchy .036 quench clearance
The arias rings supplied with them had to much gap in the top rings, I tryed digging up a different set with no luck, I also tried oem b20 rings, which were different thickness. I decided to put it together anyways. Next time I will spend a bit more and get wiseco or cp for sure.

Working on rewiring my 15 year old engine harness for some newer parts.

I have a J1 B16a cable trans with this nice quaife lsd
This engine has been running great. Just going off a basemap chip and 240cc, I cannot believe the response. but I have not driven it much on the road yet, busy fabricating a good pcv system and it will be tuned before really being romped on. I'd like to get together a similar block, and prep the head for some pro2 camshaft and itbs this winter. I will have this engine at the dyno very shortly, not expecting the world from this one, its very mild.
Modified by Runnerdown at 3:18 AM 1/31/2007
Ugh, I wanna' build a 2-liter.
Looks good, man.
Get some bigger injectors though, for sure. I forsee bad things happening if you put a set of cams in there.
Looks good, man.
Get some bigger injectors though, for sure. I forsee bad things happening if you put a set of cams in there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-Rob »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Get some bigger injectors though, for sure. I forsee bad things happening if you put a set of cams in there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The local dynapack tuner has my 440 rc injectors waiting for me, I will put them on right before we start.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jakscivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Are you using the ITR style RS machine pistons?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, they are the rs itr pistons. I don't think I would buy these again. The quality seemed decent, but not quite on the same level as oem. Arias doesnt know anything about them, and rs wont say who makes them. The label on the box was carefully cut so that the companys name wasnt there. And the ring problem left a bad taste in my mouth, like I said before I will get some wiseco or cp for the next 2.0 build. I like oem pistons on 1.6-1.8 motors. As far as it sits now, they seem to be sealing good.
Get some bigger injectors though, for sure. I forsee bad things happening if you put a set of cams in there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The local dynapack tuner has my 440 rc injectors waiting for me, I will put them on right before we start.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jakscivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Are you using the ITR style RS machine pistons?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, they are the rs itr pistons. I don't think I would buy these again. The quality seemed decent, but not quite on the same level as oem. Arias doesnt know anything about them, and rs wont say who makes them. The label on the box was carefully cut so that the companys name wasnt there. And the ring problem left a bad taste in my mouth, like I said before I will get some wiseco or cp for the next 2.0 build. I like oem pistons on 1.6-1.8 motors. As far as it sits now, they seem to be sealing good.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkRiBLaH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">doesn't the shorter valve guides compromise something with the valves?</TD></TR></TABLE>
sick setup
might want to upgrade the manifold and throttle body later down the road as it is a 2.0L motor...more air intake and flow might help up top
what rod bolts are you using with that motor btw?
might want to upgrade the manifold and throttle body later down the road as it is a 2.0L motor...more air intake and flow might help up top
what rod bolts are you using with that motor btw?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acydphryck »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sick setup
might want to upgrade the manifold and throttle body later down the road as it is a 2.0L motor...more air intake and flow might help up top
what rod bolts are you using with that motor btw?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, I'd like to try some itbs and pro 2 cams in the future. this is a real basic build on a small budget. And the rod bolts are ARP of course
About the valve guides, i'm aware that some people have concerns with cutting them back like that but i'm running a gsr cam, hardly any lift to make the valve unstable. The new guides have a little tighter clearance and are "bullnosed" as the machinist liked to call it.
might want to upgrade the manifold and throttle body later down the road as it is a 2.0L motor...more air intake and flow might help up top
what rod bolts are you using with that motor btw?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, I'd like to try some itbs and pro 2 cams in the future. this is a real basic build on a small budget. And the rod bolts are ARP of course
About the valve guides, i'm aware that some people have concerns with cutting them back like that but i'm running a gsr cam, hardly any lift to make the valve unstable. The new guides have a little tighter clearance and are "bullnosed" as the machinist liked to call it.
On stock injectors.....eh I would not be able to get away with that unless I jacked the fuel pressure up, but to me that is getting a little too ghetto. This may be a budget build in some aspects, but injectors and the tune I take very seriously.
looks good, i didnt have the ring problem you were talking about though maybe im lucky, maybe your unlucky. they did warn me about the piston to deck height deal so hopefully they warned you too. my head has an 84mm chamber so i wasnt worried but they suggested a thicker head gasket if i had a GSR head.
looking forward to your results
looking forward to your results
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C Turbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">man that is so sick. Tell us where you got the paint from, it looks like the block was hot tanked and then bead blasted! Wow!! Did you find that at auto zone?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I originally got it at pep boys, now I can't find it anywhere locally. I did a search and found it: http://www.amazon.com/Plastiko...otive
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSRCRXsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where did you get the quaffe diff for the j1 trans? i was under the impression that quaffe didnt make a diff for this tranny. only for the 92+ cable trannies</TD></TR></TABLE>
B16/LS diff are all the same.... cable or not, itr/gsr are different. I got mine from camp 1320. I would recommend either them or laskey racing.
I originally got it at pep boys, now I can't find it anywhere locally. I did a search and found it: http://www.amazon.com/Plastiko...otive
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSRCRXsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where did you get the quaffe diff for the j1 trans? i was under the impression that quaffe didnt make a diff for this tranny. only for the 92+ cable trannies</TD></TR></TABLE>
B16/LS diff are all the same.... cable or not, itr/gsr are different. I got mine from camp 1320. I would recommend either them or laskey racing.
the 90-91 trannies have a different input shaft then the 92+ trannies. from what ive read the 92+ cable trannies are similar to the hydro trannies. and the 90-91 are completely different. 90-91 cable b16 trans have very little support from what ive found. and i thought the quaffie was only made for the 92+. maybe i misinterpreted what you said. is your tranny 92+ or 90-91? i saw j1 and figured it was the 90-91 b16 j1.
yes, I have the earlier J1, which has the same dimensions as all the other B16a and LS differentials. Now as far as the input shaft and other parts, yes they are different from 92 and up.
Integra LS, 90-00
integra GS-R 92-93
Civic Si dohc 99-00
del sol dohc
Jdm S1, J1, Y1
These are all the same part when replacing the diff.
Integra LS, 90-00
integra GS-R 92-93
Civic Si dohc 99-00
del sol dohc
Jdm S1, J1, Y1
These are all the same part when replacing the diff.


