Well as some of you know I'm selling/trading my playbike to afford turbo parts...one of the offers was a straight trade for this T3 turbo, it has a .42 AR but that's all I really know about it. So here's some pics of it. It has no shaft play at all and spins freely, all the blades on the wheels are fine with no damage.

it was basically put on the motor, went for a couple drives(supposedly has not more than 30 miles on it) and then upgraded to a bigger turbo.












Also what should this sized turbo be good for say, 160-180whp in the near future, and then as much as 250whp later on? IF I get it it would be going on a d16z6


Modified by broketuner-sol_si at 11:46 PM 9/8/2006


Modified by broketuner-sol_si at 8:53 PM 9/9/2006

 

looks like a volvo\saab turbo.... yeah... you will be ok with it.

 

cool, yeah the guy told me around 10-12 psi I should be making close to 200whp on a d16z6.

 

its a volvo turbo, you might need to rig the flange for it to work but it should spool in the upper 2K range

 

"From my understanding it can be oil or watercooled"

Just to clarify: It needs the oil lines no matter what. Also, 250 on that will likely be pushing it outside of it's efficiency range. Tough to be specific with no information about it.

Is that "M3" cast into the turbine housing?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CrazyCooter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Is that "M3" cast into the turbine housing?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I can't tell, just spoke with the guy who will call me back when he tkes a look at it. What is the importance/signifigance of "M3" being cast onto the housing.

also it is fully oil cooled(which would be better right?)

 

the oil doesnt really cool turbo, it lubricates it.

only run oil through the oil portion, only run coolant through the coolant portion. it literally takes a half hour to set up good water cooling stuff. easy to do.

 

The M3 might help to ID the turbo. The M-number signifies the nickel content of the housing and that has changed over the years. If it's a M3, it could be a Chrysler turbo. (Which would probably be a .48 a/r turbine housing with a 50 trim compressor wheel)

It could also be a Volvo turbo, I'm not real sure what turbos Volvo used at what times. It might even be none of the above if it's been toyed with. Ask the guy if it came from the junkyard and if he knows what vehicle it was pulled from. It looks like it's all rebuilt, so it's not a bad thing if it came from the boneyard, it just makes it easier to ID and see if it will fit your goals. Even if he had an idea what the turbine outlet (wastegate housing) looked like it would help.

 

he said he bought it brand new, put it on a gsr, didn't like it, and went with a bigger turbo. he said it has 30-40 miles MAX.

 

man step your game up guy!!
first you bought a p.o.s. silvia turbo for your single cam and now you got a chysler/volvo turbo?? wtf man?? stop being gay with it and making it harder for yourself with all that custom work that would have to be done. and for what?? so you could say you have a chysler/volvoo turbo on your honda. just get a real turbo like a garret or turbonetics. they are much better and wont require extra work.

ps. dont say that you are low on funds and thats why you are buying bullshit turbos. get your *** up and make some money.

 

uh, jackass, maybe I read it wrong, but what does it say on the compressor side on the 2nd pic???

how'd I figure all of anthonie's nut swingers were gonna start replying here, PMing me or emailing me about getting another turbo??? (even if this one is almost brand new)

and no I didn't get it yet. I'm only asking if it would be good for it.

also I wouldn't be as low on funds if that wanabe thug Anthonie wouldn't have ripped me off for the bullshit t28.


Modified by broketuner-sol_si at 12:52 AM 9/10/2006

 

straight volvo turbo, just like saabs but it has a oval type flange