hi guys,

I replaced the fan switch because my fan did not turn and the car would over heat. Prior to replacing the fan switch, both upper and lower rad hoses would be hot. However, after replacing the fan switch, not only the fan still does not turn, only the upper rad hose is hot.

The reason I think only the upper rad hose is hot is because my thermostat got stuck. So I replaced the thermostat as well. But it did not help the problem. Perhaps the thermostat I bought was crap?

I don't know why the fan still doesn't turn after a new switch. The fan turns when it is jumped. Could it still be the relay even when it turns when it is jumped?

 

Your car will have to be pretty warm before the fan will kick on. Drive it around then let it sit for a while running with the hood closed and see if you hear the fan kick on. If the temp goes past halfway shut it off though.

 

when you say you jump it are you connecting the two wires from the sensor together or going from like the battery. If you're going from the battery, check your fuse?

what you can do to test it is heat up the sensor and check for conectivity. I test mine once my putting it in a boiling pan of water (holding the sensor with vise grips to not get the electrial part wet and then used a electrical tester thing.. cant remember what its called and checked for connectivity.

Also have you tried bleeding your cooling system. Sometimes an air pocket will get trapped right there not allowing the sensor to actually come in contact with the fluids.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxmatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your car will have to be pretty warm before the fan will kick on. Drive it around then let it sit for a while running with the hood closed and see if you hear the fan kick on. If the temp goes past halfway shut it off though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, my problem is after driving around.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doublejz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when you say you jump it are you connecting the two wires from the sensor together or going from like the battery. If you're going from the battery, check your fuse? </TD></TR></TABLE>

When I said jump, i mean connecting the two prongs from the senor together.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doublejz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also have you tried bleeding your cooling system. Sometimes an air pocket will get trapped right there not allowing the sensor to actually come in contact with the fluids. </TD></TR></TABLE>

How do I bleed the cooling system?

What i still don't understand is howcome the lower rad hose is cold even after I replaced the thermostat.

 

let the car get hot and on the thermostat housing theres a bleeder screw. loosen it up and leave it open until a straight stream of coolant shoots outta it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doublejz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">let the car get hot and on the thermostat housing theres a bleeder screw. loosen it up and leave it open until a straight stream of coolant shoots outta it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

which screw is it?


edit.... sounds like i will burn myself, no?

 

By the way, i got a B16A2 SiR on a 97 EK chassis.

 

I had this problem on my first EG. It turned out to be the temperature switch. Cost about $12 to replace.

 

the same thing happened to me a few months ago.. turned out to be a bad relay

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NorthShore &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had this problem on my first EG. It turned out to be the temperature switch. Cost about $12 to replace. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I was thinking the same thing.

 

ok im assuming the fan switch he is referring to is the temperature switch. so to clearify the fan switch you're talking about is #11 in the diagram right? if it isn't then #11 is probably your problem but if you just replaced that.. i would most likely rule it out.. but still test it for conectivity.

It wouldnt be a bad relay if he connects both prongs together and it works.

the bleeder screw is on piece #5 there should be like a nipple with a nut on the base of it thats facing up/towards the front of the car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doublejz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the bleeder screw is on piece #5 there should be like a nipple with a nut on the base of it thats facing up/towards the front of the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just saw this now.

Okay, I fixed all the problems now. I went to get one of those fail-safe thermostats and I reinstalled the fan switch (#11, ECT), drained and refilled the coolant. I bled it by having the cap loose and run the car for a bit (my friend told me to and I did not see the post above).

Everything seems to be fine now, fan turns on and both upper and lower rad hoses are hot. Haven't driven the car but it should be okay.

thanks for all the help, guys!