How did you line it up perfectly? My wife and I just spent over an hour tightening/loosening/pulling/tightening/loosening/lifting/etc. We have a floor jack to raise and steady the door. Just when we seem to get it perfect, it wont shut all the way (the two door bolts on the top that slide into that hard plastic dohicky at the top of the door area does not seem to make it into there spaces) Can those be loosened and left that way or do they need to stay how they are?



See, the door looks like it fits...but the gap between the back fender and the door is either double or a little more than double the size of the original drivers side.

 

what year door is that? it looks like it has the seatbelt mounted on the door? i think 88's had it bolted to the body of the car? atleast on my 88hf it is....

 

The guy I got it from said it was supposed to be off a 1991...my car is a 90... I believe the 89-91s had door mounted seat belts? My drivers door also has the seat belt mounted.

 

Might it be an issue with the car and not the door?

 

my bad i was just assuming by your (88crxsi) sn..... i replaced my door awhile back but isn't that pin suppose to hold it in place and line it up? then just bolt in those two screws? sorry i'm not much help... it looks fine from the pix though..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxma22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my bad i was just assuming by your (88crxsi) sn..... i replaced my door awhile back but isn't that pin suppose to hold it in place and line it up? then just bolt in those two screws? sorry i'm not much help... it looks fine from the pix though..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I tried that, but when you open the door, it sags a little (almost like the hinge pins are showing more wear than they should?) And, sorry, but I got my screen name years ago when I had my 88 crx si....I just never changed it, which I will do right now!

And I thought it might have been an issue with the car, but I see no damage to anything at all. The old door opened and closed just fine with the right size or so gap.

 

 

When replacing a door you should not remove the body mounted hinge unless they also were damaged, I assume you did?

If so usually you can "see" where they used to sit so remove them from the door and mount back to the car, thean bolt door to hinges.

 

And BTW to get the door to sit straight when tightned you need to hold the door higher then the opening with a jack, tighten, then let its weight bring it down and shut.

 

Bummer.....I knew that last part about raising the door higher..... But as for the first part about not removing the old hinges........Did'nt quite know that.

 

For some extremely strange reason no body I kno that has changed doors ever thought to do it the way I did. . . .
You already had your fender off so put all the bolts in place then close the door until it latches shut, have some one else push the door into the car line it up, have the other person press it in place while you tighten all the bolts and your done, I've done I'd say about 9 doors, four of them were from hf(seatbelts in car) to a dx(seat belts on door) and vice versa every single time I've done it its come out fine not even water gets through. . . . . . .the jack thing works but takes hella long and even though it looks right water still makes it through still. . . . . . .

 

I had to align my doors about 50 times, from removing, and testing my fender braces. Easiest way is to use a jack, and go from there. If there is a catch on the bottom, raise the door up a tad. If its to high, lower. Its all about really the feel. You should only have to loosen up two of the door bolts for the door to move up and down.

Another tip, if you look at the door hinge area, you should basically see a dirty outline of where the old doors were at, you can go on that as well.

 

this is the only reason why i didnt get fender braces. I didnt feel like messing around trying to align my doors

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HT Chaplain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is the only reason why i didnt get fender braces. I didnt feel like messing around trying to align my doors </TD></TR></TABLE>

Its honestly not that hard, specially if you take the right precautions, just trace the hinge with a sharper. Yeah, doors will sag over time, I actually got my doors to close better then they were before.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by el_payaso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For some extremely strange reason no body I kno that has changed doors ever thought to do it the way I did. . . .
You already had your fender off so put all the bolts in place then close the door until it latches shut, have some one else push the door into the car line it up, have the other person press it in place while you tighten all the bolts and your done, I've done I'd say about 9 doors, four of them were from hf(seatbelts in car) to a dx(seat belts on door) and vice versa every single time I've done it its come out fine not even water gets through. . . . . . .the jack thing works but takes hella long and even though it looks right water still makes it through still. . . . . . . </TD></TR></TABLE>

I actually tried that...about 4 times, but when were all done, the door ends up sagging just a bit and rubs. Did not like the outcome. My door seems to sag just about 1/8 of an inch after release on the hinges.... But, I will try that again, and use some wood wedges the size of how much it ends up saging...perhaps that will work? Perhaps not. Then I will try taking the hinge off the door and putting it back in there original location....However, I sanded that spot down and primed and painted it black to remove rust...Next, I will try using the original hinges. Thats all I can come up with short of taking it to a body shop to do. I will keep trying though!