I recently swapped a B16 into my EF. I used 90 Teg driveshafts with 90 teg midshaft. I bought brand new driveshafts with lifetime warranty. I've put about 300kms, in 1 week, and I'm going on my 3rd set of driveshafts.

What the heck is going on here? It shouldn't be going thru so many axles. But like, 50 kms after it's in they click and bind like crazy! I personally think they are too long and are pushing themselves to bottom out the shaft when I turn, binding it...I don't know.

It's getting really bad, can someone explain to me why this would happen? It worked great on all other B series swaps I've seen/done on EF civics.

 

what engine mounts did you use? because if the engine isnt lined up correctly the axles will bind.

 

did you take out the dust ring from the hubs?

 

Dust rings are removed. I know my engine mounts aren't the greatest (Avid mounts with Avid Shifter, the gay), but the axles cleared decently. I notice there is a stop it is hitting on full turning, so I'm gonna notch (it's about a 1/8 off) the fork a little bit in the one corner, replace the shafts and see. It honestly feels like they are too long tho.

 

Hey, just wondering what kind of axles are you using. I know you said that they are from a 90-93 Acura Integra, but make are they?

 

Fenco...

 

Well I know Fenco is really big, but I do not like re-man axles. I know its not your mounts cause you said that after 50 km or so it starts to click on you. Another question I have is how low is your car? Also which intermedaite shaft do you have as well?

 

2 inch drop with 90 teg intermediate shaft.

 

has the car ever been hit. is the alignment good. there r axles for ABS and NON ABS. which r urs? it could be the mounts, i got a avid shiftlinkage it sucks, so the mounts might be the problem.

 

Non ABS driveshafts, like you are supose to use. That side has never been hit and the alignment is near perfect (camber since i dropped it tho).

 

u said that side hasn't been hit, has it been hit in the front at all? it does matter. if the frame is off it can do some crazy things right or left, front to back.. but i'm just asking other wise i do know.

 

if the mounts suck according to so many people, you can get the innovate mounts.. they are only 250 for the set. way cheaper than az race machine and hasport.. you got the right year axles.. it has to be an aignment issue with how the eingie sits, or the frame sits.. either one is offset.. not enought to show up to the human eye, but enough to make the axles go "i dont think so" after a certin ammount of time

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsxr1k05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if the mounts suck according to so many people, you can get the innovate mounts.. they are only 250 for the set. way cheaper than az race machine and hasport.. you got the right year axles.. it has to be an aignment issue with how the eingie sits, or the frame sits.. either one is offset.. not enought to show up to the human eye, but enough to make the axles go "i dont think so" after a certin ammount of time
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go on ebay AZrace machines for 218.84 shipped to ur door! i have them on my crx and if u want to check the frame ur self take a string and go from the hood mount bolt up by the window cross to the headlight on the other side, market the string do the same to the other side. if the strings mark is not in the same spot on the other side the frame is bent.

 

It was 'love tapped' in the front. But it had no issues with driveshafts until the swap. I was talking to PHATGSR98 on HT, the guy I got the mounts from, and he said he had to notch the front fork because they hit at high load and in turning sharp. I check my forks and they are 'flattened' in the spot he was saying he notched. So I'm gonna spend my saturday notching and replacing driveshafts...

 

sounds shadey to me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsxr1k05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds shadey to me</TD></TR></TABLE>

When you manage to do a B16 swap for under 1700$ including purchasing the engine, do you expect everything to work out handy dandy? No. Neither did I. I figured other people would be able to figure out some solutions to try, but until now, all I said was what I had.

I guess HT can't help me again, gotta figure this one out alone.