need some advice here:

Everyday I go out in the morning to start the car it takes a good 5 sec to start the car. It is cranking over but it takes awhile for it to start. After that it starts right up no matter how many times i shut off and restart. I have a new battery, alternator, new plugs, new wires, cleaned out the fuel injection system professionaly, and tested replaced alternator belt.

Not sure if related but I do have an automatic and it jerks when street driving, driving slow. If driven fast it shifts perfectly.

Could all of this be related to clog egr valve or idle air control or fuel pump dying?

 

bump for help...94 prelude si

 

how do you have your car parked when you try to start your car in the morning?

is it slanted up?

 

no flat

 

Mine does that if I don't let the fuel pump prime the system when it's been sitting for awhile. I usually turn the key to the 1st position until the dash lights go off then start the car. Just a habit I got into, do it with every car I drive.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lewdin’ Incognito &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mine does that if I don't let the fuel pump prime the system when it's been sitting for awhile. I usually turn the key to the 1st position until the dash lights go off then start the car. Just a habit I got into, do it with every car I drive.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I always wait till the fuel pump is done priming the engine.

 

How many kilometers/miles on your car? If it's anything over 220,000 KM / 137,000 miles, I would suggest replacing the Main Relay underneath your drivers' side dash. Those are apparently a known issue for hard starts, and tend to go around that milage.

 

yeah mine does the same thing. it takes even more than 5 secondfs soemtime, I heard about the main relay problem as well, but I have no clue what that is, so u have a link telling about it and how to replace it?

 

its a grey box with a brown center up behind the dash on the driver side. if you get under your steering wheel and look up behind the dash with your head facing up that way.. the main relay will be to the right high above attached to a long metal bracket. it will have 6 or so wires going to it.. pretty thick wires I would say 10g to 12g wire.. some of the wires look like white/black I think there's a yellow/black one etc.. its not hard to locate. and I think the dealer is asking around 30 bucks for it.

 

Most of the time with the main relay, that I know of, if you drive the car for a while, turn it off, and then try to start it, the engine will rev up to 2 grand then die. At least that is what happened to mine and it was only in the summer. The problem is with the solder points on the main relay. I think it has something to do with the solder they used and as the car gets older, the solder points crack and dont make a good connection. (Correct me if I'm wrong,) Anyway, all I did was take the main relay out, resolder the points that had cracks, plus the ones that looked fine just to be safe. Never had the problem again. Theres a good write up somewhere up here or another forum. I can't find it but I resoldered my main relay in 5-10 mins, doesnt take long. This should help though. The main relay for the 4g prelude is in a location similar to the accord.

http://techauto.te.funpic.org/mainrelaydefine.php

http://techauto.te.funpic.org/mainrelay.php

 

This problem does not sound like the main relay. Replaced your cap and rotor lately?

 

what should I do since i dont have a soldering or desoldering iron? is it worth getting a new main relay or will i still have to solder?

 

A new one, that comes with a spool of solder, is only $20 at Advance Auto.

 

cap and rotor was replaced recently...car has 90k...car starts fine after initial start...i think it maybe the fuel pump stated before...will replacing it fix the problem? or will it be the same? what causes this problem?

i had thought that maybe it was related to the slow acceleration jerk, fast acceleration shifts butter smooth...could this be the idle air control?

 

it could be a bad check valve in the fuel line causing all the fuel to return to the tank after setting..... if you cycle the key on and off a couple of times then it starts fine thats more then likely what it is