97 acura integra gsr

When i go to start my car everytime its been sitting for a good 5 hrs or overnight, it takes a good 20 times turning it over for 5 sec each time before it starts. and when it does start it runs like a top it dont skip a beat at all. you can drive somewhere turn off the car and it will start right back up. its only when it sits for a period of time that its a bi*** to start

things i have done:
checked timing all good
changed dizzys and coils
complete tune up
new fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump
changed the ecus


stil nothing, it still takes a bunch of time to start this damn thing and im getting pissed and about to blow it up.

any help would be appreciated

 

My first guess would've been a bad fuel pump but you changed it. My next theory would be the battery, when it's cold the voltage of the battery goes down and it may not be getting enough amps. Last theory would be a starter that's going bad.

Thinner oil might help turn it over in the cold. Those are the only things I can think of since you swapped and tuned almost everything that could be related.

Hope the issue gets solved.

 

I wouldn't say it would be the started because the motor has been turning. Turning slowly im guessing? i had this problem, brought it to o'reily's and had them test it. They said it was bad, got a new batt and it started right up. Hope that helps. Check terminals as well.

 

mine does this also except the car sputters and dies out.

 

I'm 75% sure a new battery would solve the problem as well. I had this problem in the past also, swapped the battery and I've never had the problem since. Worst case scenario would be a bad starter.

 

I just talked to the kid I got it from to see when this all started. It only starts this hard in the cold. it actually turns over fine. It does have a new battery in it also.

 

Sorry I can't be of help. I'm stumped to but I want to watch this thread to see if the OG's have an answer for you... knowledge is power.

 

the car does have a Victor x manifold with a stock p72. could this possibly have anything to do with the problem since a stock Gsr manifold has butterflies in the intake ?

 

what mods ? I would definitely get at least a chipped ecu for what you have. what size tb also when i did my IM and TB both skunk2 i had (still have) starting issues especialy cold starts. I have to hold the RPM's at 2-2.5k so i don't choke out.

 

I had a similar problem. Changed the starter and the battery. Car starts up beautifully now.

 

only thing done to the car when i got it is, vixtor x manifold with stock TB. The car turns over like any honda would, it does not start slow at all. This is why i dont think its a starter issue and i have a brand new battery in it

 

mine likes to choke out and die so i have to hold the RPM's at 2-3K for fiew seconds. does your's do anything like that ? starts on 2-3rd time cranking.

 

no this thing seriously takes 15-20 times turnin the key and having it turning over about 5 seconds each time to get it start, when it starts to start it will die the first couple times, and when u give it gas is falls on its face like choking out. so i gotta feather the gas a little bit. once it starts and runs for a good 30 seconds she is golden and runs damn good.

During the summer it doesnt do this, it takes an extra crank but it starts right away in the summer

 

Only difference is mine needs gas given or it dies. Same it's great in the summer time, first crank and im good to go. Spring is close where I live the issue is getting better but still a pain.

 

alright, well my buddy has a stock gsr intake laying around that i might try and see if that helps, i just daily this hog and i just want it to start up right away lol

 

I take it you dont have a fitv on it? Thats meant to help in cold conditions. It bleeds in extra air when its cold to hold the revs up till it warms up.

Why do you only hold the key for 5 seconds? Just keep cranking on till it starts lol

How cold are we talkin here?
My da takes several seconds more when its cold out (50s) but never dies or stalls out. Probably because I rebuilt my fitv

 

ya no FITV on my tb i've blamed that for the issue. but have gotten mixed answers when i made a thred about it.

 

i think the first thing i would do is check for codes. if none present, i'd want a fuel pressure gauge on this to confirm where we're at there when the problem is occurring.
does the car utilize a fitv? when it finally does start, is the idle speed high like it should be when cold?


since your car does not utilize a fitv, the cold start fast idle is initiated by the ect sensor input. the ecm regulates fast idle by way of the iacv. eot may also be an input used for this action. you'd want to start by checking resistance of both of these sensors when cold. they are an ntc type sensor. that is, high resistance cold, low when warm. if you're reading let's say 20 ohms cold, that is the problem.

both of you need to start by checking for codes. regardless of an illuminated MIL.

 

So today i plugged in my s300 obd2a into my car and its throwing a engine over heating code 11. changed the thermostat coolant temp sensore, still doing the same thing.

when i start the car it does not have a fast idle at all and it does have a fitv

 

Check ECT sensor a bad ECT sensor symptoms can be hard starting when cold, harder starting when cold outside, runs fine once started, starts fine if engine temp. is not cold, [ambient temp.] sure sounds like your problem.

The other thing would be low fuel pressure, try this, instead of trying to start the engine 20 times, cycle the ign. switch 4-5 times, turn ign. on, wait for fuel pump to stop priming, turn off the ign. repeat 4-5 times and then try starting the engine.

I agree, this is definatly not a batt. or starter isue, not if you can crank the engine 20 times in a row, [for any number of sec.]

I also agree, check for codes. 94

 

first, there is no such code. second, if you were throwing an ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor code, and you replaced the fan switch (which is the one on the thermostat housing), then you were after the wrong one. though i doubt the ect sensor is even he problem. the ecm only thinks it is.

if the car has a fitv, and it is not allowing air to bypass the throttle plate on cold starts, that is what the problem is. no air. no fast idle. you need that extra air to mix with the rich mixture thrown at the engine during cold start.
service the fitv. if that doesn't work, replace it

 

It's getting warm here so when i get the car tuned im going to get the idle issue worked out. as the garages in my area won't work on "modified cars"

 

I went driving last night with my s300 just to see if any more error codes would come up. On hondata there is a code 11 OH Engine over heating, its a safety thing the handata has so you can change the temp so that does not pop up, second after driving for a good 10-15 minutes code 6 popped up the ECT sensor, went home changed it. Waited for 3 hrs, went out and started it.


BOOM!

it worked pops off first try everytime now

thanks to all the people that helped in this

 

ohh i see now. the hondata was throwing the code. it was getting the reading off the ect sensor. which was malfunctioning and reading pegged hot. and that is what caused the lack of fuel for your cold start fast idle.
so you now have fast idle cold then?
right on

 

No, your kidding, all it was was the ECT sensor, it's always the last thing you think about. 94