All right my car has always idled low,around 800-900rpms but today i noticed it was idling at 0!the car didnt feel like it was gonna die or anything either,i gave it gas and it went back all the way down.I'm thinking i should adjust it,but i dont really know how.I just know i have to adjust the throttle cable...

here's a pic and this is after the cooling fan has kicked on

 

1.) that looks like 200ish

2.) there are two 12mm nuts on the throttle cable where it connects to the intake manifold via a small 90-degree bracket. You need to loosen the nut closest to the throttle body and tighten the nut furthest from it, ensuring that you retain tension on the cable without opening the TB too much. It might take a few tries to get it perfect, but you should be able to take any and all slack out of the line and bump your idle up to the proper 700-900 area.

Good luck.

 

you don't tighten the throttle cable to adjust idle....never.

the small line above the bottom line is 500. so you're right around there. If everything else is set, then the way to adjust idle is with the idle adjust screw on the throttle body, facing the passenger shock tower. Top left of throttle body, it's a flat head screw most likely with glue over it to keep it set. Adjust the screw until idle is around 750 or so. Make sure car is warmed up and all loads off

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evs-One &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you don't tighten the throttle cable to adjust idle....never.

the small line above the bottom line is 500. so you're right around there. If everything else is set, then the way to adjust idle is with the idle adjust screw on the throttle body, facing the passenger shock tower. Top left of throttle body, it's a flat head screw most likely with glue over it to keep it set. Adjust the screw until idle is around 750 or so. Make sure car is warmed up and all loads off</TD></TR></TABLE>

See, I've never had any luck adjusting idle with the set screw. I find it much more simple and effective to remove the slack from the throttle cable - if there is any - and give it enough of a turn to bring the idle up to spec. Yes, this effects the TPS slightly, but I've never had problems with it and I still get between 33-38 mpg on my Z6.

I do agree, however, that if you can get the idle adjust screw to work better than I can (my engine has 272k miles on it and things don't work as well as they used to), it's worth a try.

 

You don't have to adjust anything, if it sounds fine and idles fine , then its ok. I remember when i got my 98 civic, after a while of driving i looked at my rpm guage and it was resting on zero. So i went to honda and they hooked up their computer and my idle was at 750. So the needle just might be off. I did n't bother me. i just looked at me vafc and the idle was reading 750 +/-. I recently replaced my gauges with 99 si ones and the needle stays were its suppose to, its dosent lay on zero anymore. If you can hook up a digital tach then you will see its fine.!!! Don't adjust your idle it won't fix your needle. unless you want your car to idle at 900-1200 rpm.

 

^^what he said!

 

mmm, that sounds rare to me.

i have low idle problems also,
you can definetely notice when it gets super low,
cuz the engine is turning so slow, it feels rough

at around 750 is best as far as comfort,
fast enough to be smooth, but still quiet.

 

you arent throwing any CEL's are you?

 

mines around 550 and is fine!

 

remember...stock tachs suck!! Hook up a timing light with tach built in

 

FITV (Fast Idle throttle valve, I think that's it) and IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) could be clogged up, you should clean them

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evs-One &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">remember...stock tachs suck!! Hook up a timing light with tach built in</TD></TR></TABLE>

Emerika is also very correct there. Just because it's displaying a certain number or range doesn't mean the engine speed is anywhere close

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

See, I've never had any luck adjusting idle with the set screw. I find it much more simple and effective to remove the slack from the throttle cable - if there is any - and give it enough of a turn to bring the idle up to spec. Yes, this effects the TPS slightly, but I've never had problems with it and I still get between 33-38 mpg on my Z6.

I do agree, however, that if you can get the idle adjust screw to work better than I can (my engine has 272k miles on it and things don't work as well as they used to), it's worth a try.</TD></TR></TABLE>
my car has like 222k on it, and my idle screw would back its self down, to tight after driving it for like a couple min.. I just pulled the screw all the way out, and replaced the OLD HARD o ring and WHAMMI, like new. Sounds kinda like part of the problem with your idle screw Archidictus.. But i agree, make sure there isn't any slack in the throttle cable.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondadriver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You don't have to adjust anything, if it sounds fine and idles fine , then its ok. I remember when i got my 98 civic, after a while of driving i looked at my rpm guage and it was resting on zero. So i went to honda and they hooked up their computer and my idle was at 750. So the needle just might be off. I did n't bother me. i just looked at me vafc and the idle was reading 750 +/-. I recently replaced my gauges with 99 si ones and the needle stays were its suppose to, its dosent lay on zero anymore. If you can hook up a digital tach then you will see its fine.!!! Don't adjust your idle it won't fix your needle. unless you want your car to idle at 900-1200 rpm.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Word...

Other than that I agree with what Archidictus said. I've never had any luck myself with the idle set screw, but when I tightened up the throttle cable it came out perfectly..

Though if it's idling fine, why worry about it?

It's probably idling around 800 but it's a Honda tach so it's off by like 300 or 350 making it inbetween the first two ticks :-P

Who cares though, seriously?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Emerika is also very correct there. Just because it's displaying a certain number or range doesn't mean the engine speed is anywhere close </TD></TR></TABLE>

I love how you still use my old name

 

im out of date here but civics dont come with fitv thats integra/prelude

 

@$amGD3 updates plox

 

Yes, they do.

 

I know its friday and all but come on braaaahhh...

 

mine idles differently every once in a while. sometimes its at 600 rpms, sometimes its at like 100. anyone know the problem?

 

what about the car going in limp mode b/c the MAP sensor wires are broken, Wired in map sensor from ecu (p28 motor is d15b) d17-d19-d21 to control map sensor.. Nooowwww my cel is off, car is idling but its cracking/backfiring while driving and giving gas jus like a bad map sensor.. Motor is a JDM d15b Vtec with 33k on it