have a question
what does 10-14.4 votls mean?
im going to run a bridged 300w amp with a 600max dvc sub
i already have a 200w amp
would a capacitor help or is that only if i experience headlight problems?


Modified by dafuzzbudd at 9:16 AM 11/22/2006

 

That Sony amp can only do 150 wrms in bridged mode...and probably not even that since they overrate them. I would recommend getting a better amp and for cheaper: PG Xenon 400.1. It will give you 400 strong rms watts and reliability. It has all the features of a sub amp. I bought one a couple years ago for over $200 (same seller actually), and even now they go for that much at other places. I just bought one yesterday for my new car...and also had a 600.1 version...which is just as good (a bit more power though). This is something I've used and can recommend from my own experience. There are many other good brands/amps out there, but nothing can beat this price. And for a 300-400 wrms sub, look into Infinity subs. I had one before, will go with one again.

Oh, and crossovers don't give you more power...they cutoff frequencies. What you meant is bridging an amp, which is joining 2 channels together into one. I believe you can bridge a svc sub (correct me if I'm wrong) by connecting (+) from one channel to (+) of the sub, and (-) from ANOTHER channel to (-) of the sub. But you won't need this if you get that PG amp.

 

Sony car audio is poo. Stay away from it.

 

i have no experience so i have not much of an argument
but i heard that sony makes crap speakers but good amps

i need something for a sub and my 6x9's.
i dont exactly want to run 2 amps
ill look more into that brand though

 

bump

 

best thing is to spend the bulk of your budget on your amps look at some solid companies like JLAudio/Audison/McIntosh/Focal try to stay away from the big brand name stuff like Sony/Pioneer/Rockford/Lightning

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dopey88 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">best thing is to spend the bulk of your budget on your amps look at some solid companies like JLAudio/Audison/McIntosh/Focal try to stay away from the big brand name stuff like Sony/Pioneer/Rockford/Lightning
</TD></TR></TABLE>

chances are if he's looking at sony amps then Audison and Mcintosh are seriously out of his price range.

 

as far as the 10-14.4 volts... it usually refers to how much power an amp will put out at any certain voltage. Most good amps are rated at 12volts because this is what can be expected from a car with a decent electrical system. For example.. say an amp is rated at 400watts rms at 12volts. That same amp will put out a lil more power if your cars electrical system runs at say 13volts for whatever reason. I guess you can think of it like this... our engines put out their most power in the upper rpm's in general (to an extent). The higher the rpm's the more power the engine produces. Not sure if that makes sense but i think you get the idea.

 

well the amp is rated actually rated like... 500-600 max
i think i saw that at 12 it's actually 550 so i guess that range describes 10-14.4v
is there a way to get that extra voltagage and i'd guess im at 12? (i have a new battery)
the only thing that popped in my head(im a newb) is that a capacitor could do that.
i realize is it's main purpose is to stabalize the voltage.

hm... does a special audio battery do this?

 

What 10-14.4 volts means will depend on what context it is used in, in car audio it normally means the operating voltage range of a car audio component, [HU, amps or other components that are connected to the cars electrical system]

Most amps, [but not all] will have more output, [watts] the higher the voltage, amps like the JL Audio Slash series put out the same watts throughout it's operating range of 11V-14.5V.

Your cars electrical/charging system is between 12.5V, [motor not running and nothing on] it will drop below that if you "load" up the batt., [turn things on].
When you start the car the voltage can go up as high as about 14.5V, [much more then that and you have a problem, as you will exceed the voltage operating parameters of most audio systems, [and the cars electrical system and it's components]

You can improve current, [amps] output with a "bigger" alt., but voltage has to stay within the parameters.

You can improve/stabilize voltage/current, [when motor not running] by installing a good batt., it will also extend audio system play time.

A capacitor will "stabilize" current to the amp, [when amps current requirement exceeds batt./alt. supply. 94

 

so basically i need a better alt. which is something i dotn need to do.

thanks for a good answer.
you have taught me well

 

A "bigger" alt. is the only way to increase current, [amperage]. 94

 

^ yup


But basically you wanna look at rms watt ratings since thats what amps will actually put out...not the max ratings. If your amp is like 500-600max then it likely puts out around 250-300 rms. I reallyl wouldnt worry about ur electrical system a whole lot...its probably fine. If anything, if u need more power id just get a different amp.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dafuzzbudd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so basically i need a better alt. </TD></TR></TABLE> If the system is drawing more current, constantly then the alt. can put out, yes you will need an alt.

EG; Say you have a 600W RMS system, it takes about 90A of current to make 600W of power, if your stock alt. is 80A eventually the batt, would draw down, alt. will over-heat and eventually burn out, however, [and this is the good part] under normal use the average draw will be less then 30%, [25A], even cranked the average would probably be less then 75%, [65A].

So unless your constantly drawing more then the charging system of your car can put out, you do not need to upgrade the alt., install a cap on the sub amp instead. 94

 

i &lt;3 technical answers
thanks fcm