anything major to change at 150k miles??
well my cars about to hit 150k miles and i was wondering if theres anything important to replace?? the engine is a stock d15b2. the engine does feel slower then before. is there anything i can do to have a lil more kick? this is my daily driver so i drive it everyday to work and such. and would it be a good idea to switch oil synthetic? only conventional oil has been used in the engine its whole life. i heard that if you swtich it can cause leaks and such. some people suggest to use a semi synth blend for the first 2 oil changes then switch to fully synth. suggestions anyone?
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From: Riverside County 951, Ca
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16-CRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do an engine swap. that will give it some kick.</TD></TR></TABLE> a d16z6 would be a great swap
you can give it a tune up with the usual parts such as:
plugs
cap and rotor
fuel filter (it made a very noticeable difference in my car)
adjust timing
coolant change
t-belt and water pump if you can't done so already
clean throttle body
clean out PCV valve
run some seafoam through intake and fuel system to remove excess carbon
valve lash adjustment
resolder main relay terminals (this could possibly save you from a no start one day)
wash and wax (purely cosmetic to spruce up your car)
tire rotation
brake fluid change
tranny oil change
new air filter
oil and filter change
engine shampoo if needed
replace any old hoses as needed
This is what I did to my car at 150, 000km's.
If its slow you could just simply swap the engine like a few have suggested here
cheers!
plugs
cap and rotor
fuel filter (it made a very noticeable difference in my car)
adjust timing
coolant change
t-belt and water pump if you can't done so already
clean throttle body
clean out PCV valve
run some seafoam through intake and fuel system to remove excess carbon
valve lash adjustment
resolder main relay terminals (this could possibly save you from a no start one day)
wash and wax (purely cosmetic to spruce up your car)
tire rotation
brake fluid change
tranny oil change
new air filter
oil and filter change
engine shampoo if needed
replace any old hoses as needed
This is what I did to my car at 150, 000km's.
If its slow you could just simply swap the engine like a few have suggested here

cheers!
hey thanks stevecivic. well i would love a swap but i dont think i can afford that right now so im gonna stick with the engine stock. so would it be a good idea to switch to a full synthetic or at least a synthetic blend in a high mileage engine? without worrying about anything leaking?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ilikeric3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> so would it be a good idea to switch to a full synthetic or at least a synthetic blend in a high mileage engine? without worrying about anything leaking?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wouldnt waste the money. Just stick with whatever you've been using and change it every 3,000 miles and you'll be OK.
I wouldnt waste the money. Just stick with whatever you've been using and change it every 3,000 miles and you'll be OK.
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I am running the high mileage Castrol. It seems to slow down the oil consumption.
I wouldn't go with synthetic. It does make it seem like it leaks more.
And to add to the list...
Alignment, Check the suspension. Ball joints and tierods
Shocks, If you haven't then it's time.
Brakes, As in master cylinder, if you brake pedal isn't like it used to be.
New PCV don't waste time cleaning it you might make it worse.
If you haven't ran any fuel injector cleaner in it I would. Almost the same as Seafoam.
Flush all fluids brake, radiator, and tranny.
Thats all for now.
I wouldn't go with synthetic. It does make it seem like it leaks more.
And to add to the list...
Alignment, Check the suspension. Ball joints and tierods
Shocks, If you haven't then it's time.
Brakes, As in master cylinder, if you brake pedal isn't like it used to be.
New PCV don't waste time cleaning it you might make it worse.
If you haven't ran any fuel injector cleaner in it I would. Almost the same as Seafoam.
Flush all fluids brake, radiator, and tranny.
Thats all for now.
I would say stick with what you have now since your mileage is already that high. My belief is that those that use synthetic should do so early in the engine's life since the entire premise behind using synthetic is better wear protection and the lowered likelihood of viscosity breakdown and so on. Since you're running a D15 motor the chances of you getting any real benefit wouldn't be noticable.
I personally would stick with what you have and just change the oil as recommended in honda's schedule B service interval.
If you're really looking at repairing your daily driver you should look at the springs and struts and bushings. It is likely that your struts are long gone (if they're original honda ones) and something I've noticed about EF's is that the front springs like to break on the first coil from age and corrosion.
Other than that just give treating the car with respect and it will serve you well!
I personally would stick with what you have and just change the oil as recommended in honda's schedule B service interval.
If you're really looking at repairing your daily driver you should look at the springs and struts and bushings. It is likely that your struts are long gone (if they're original honda ones) and something I've noticed about EF's is that the front springs like to break on the first coil from age and corrosion.
Other than that just give treating the car with respect and it will serve you well!
thanks for all the replies guys. yea my motors does consume oil. any good engine oil that should slow that down? where does the oil go anyway?i dont see any leaks anywhere on the engine bay.does oil burn? cause my dad and uncle says it doesnt.
yes oil can burn and even the slightest amount of oil getting into your combustion chamber will cause blue smoke to exit out of the exhuast system.
How much oil are you consuming? If its a lot then odds are nothing will stop that.
If its a very minimal amount you can try using the high mileage oil as it supposedly contains additives to make the engine seals swell a little to help seal any leaks. I guess this would only really help if your valve stem seals are leaking but generally the first thing to go on a honda engine is the oil control rings.
If it isn't burning a lot of oil then I would say just leave it and care for it until it dies and then replace the motor when you have more money.
D15 motors are super cheap anyways and Si engines that are a simple bolt on are not much more.
How much oil are you consuming? If its a lot then odds are nothing will stop that.
If its a very minimal amount you can try using the high mileage oil as it supposedly contains additives to make the engine seals swell a little to help seal any leaks. I guess this would only really help if your valve stem seals are leaking but generally the first thing to go on a honda engine is the oil control rings.
If it isn't burning a lot of oil then I would say just leave it and care for it until it dies and then replace the motor when you have more money.
D15 motors are super cheap anyways and Si engines that are a simple bolt on are not much more.
its only burning a little bit.maybe when the engine dies imma go for a z6 or a d16a6. but i got a question. how come when i take out the spark plug in some of them theres oil? i think its only in piston #2
Ah, I believe that is the grommets in their. Same problem with my car. If you replace your valve cover gasket, it might come with those little grommets. I am going to do that on my car soon!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ilikeric3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its only burning a little bit.maybe when the engine dies imma go for a z6 or a d16a6. but i got a question. how come when i take out the spark plug in some of them theres oil? i think its only in piston #2</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's why your burning a little bit of oil! Get a valve cover gasket set that includes the spark plug tube grommets. Mine was like $35 from a.a. parts and it came with new nuts, nut "covers" (don't know what to call them), valve cover gasket, and all 4 spark plug grommets. My engine was VERY slowly losing oil pressure over time so I figured this would fix it, and it did!
That's why your burning a little bit of oil! Get a valve cover gasket set that includes the spark plug tube grommets. Mine was like $35 from a.a. parts and it came with new nuts, nut "covers" (don't know what to call them), valve cover gasket, and all 4 spark plug grommets. My engine was VERY slowly losing oil pressure over time so I figured this would fix it, and it did!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's why your burning a little bit of oil! Get a valve cover gasket set that includes the spark plug tube grommets. Mine was like $35 from a.a. parts and it came with new nuts, nut "covers" (don't know what to call them), valve cover gasket, and all 4 spark plug grommets. My engine was VERY slowly losing oil pressure over time so I figured this would fix it, and it did!</TD></TR></TABLE>
was it easy to do that? im kind of hesistant to take off the valve cover because i dont have a torque wrench. what are the tools needed do i needa take off the valve cover and torque it down?
That's why your burning a little bit of oil! Get a valve cover gasket set that includes the spark plug tube grommets. Mine was like $35 from a.a. parts and it came with new nuts, nut "covers" (don't know what to call them), valve cover gasket, and all 4 spark plug grommets. My engine was VERY slowly losing oil pressure over time so I figured this would fix it, and it did!</TD></TR></TABLE>
was it easy to do that? im kind of hesistant to take off the valve cover because i dont have a torque wrench. what are the tools needed do i needa take off the valve cover and torque it down?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ilikeric3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
was it easy to do that? im kind of hesistant to take off the valve cover because i dont have a torque wrench. what are the tools needed do i needa take off the valve cover and torque it down?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's an extremely easy job. I've had my valve cover off so many times I can't even begin to count. There are only 4 bolts holding it down. You may need to remove that ground wire on the lower right hand side to get it off too.
Just undo the nuts, and since it's been on there for 150,000 without being touched, whack it with a rubber mallet a few times. You can't hurt anything.
Lift it off, then replace all the gaskets just like they were originally on.
NOW, the only thing that is tricky about the valve cover is re-installation. Put it back on, but be careful tightening down the nuts. They are only supposed to be torqued down to 7 ft. lbs. I don't have a torque wrench either, but I just tighten them down until I feel they are hand tight. If you over tighten them, the stud in the head will snap and you gotta go to a honda dealership to get another one.
It's an easy job. If you do happen to overtighten and snap one off, just put the rest on carefully and go to the dealership.
Peice of cake.
was it easy to do that? im kind of hesistant to take off the valve cover because i dont have a torque wrench. what are the tools needed do i needa take off the valve cover and torque it down?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's an extremely easy job. I've had my valve cover off so many times I can't even begin to count. There are only 4 bolts holding it down. You may need to remove that ground wire on the lower right hand side to get it off too.
Just undo the nuts, and since it's been on there for 150,000 without being touched, whack it with a rubber mallet a few times. You can't hurt anything.
Lift it off, then replace all the gaskets just like they were originally on.
NOW, the only thing that is tricky about the valve cover is re-installation. Put it back on, but be careful tightening down the nuts. They are only supposed to be torqued down to 7 ft. lbs. I don't have a torque wrench either, but I just tighten them down until I feel they are hand tight. If you over tighten them, the stud in the head will snap and you gotta go to a honda dealership to get another one.
It's an easy job. If you do happen to overtighten and snap one off, just put the rest on carefully and go to the dealership.
Peice of cake.
spark plug hole #2 has oil - spark plug tube grommet in valve cover.
easy fix
don't use a torque wrench for something as small as valve cover nut. I guarantee you'll break it off.
Just do it hand tight and you're good.
torque wrenches generally do not have any degree of good accuracy in their upper and lower 20% of full range. Trust me on this one.
do it by hand and it is a really really really easy task.
just make sure you'r spark plugs remain in the holes to prevent any small nuts from dropping into the motor. Once everything is bolted back up then remove spark plug #2 to clean up the oil on the plug.
easy fix
don't use a torque wrench for something as small as valve cover nut. I guarantee you'll break it off.
Just do it hand tight and you're good.
torque wrenches generally do not have any degree of good accuracy in their upper and lower 20% of full range. Trust me on this one.
do it by hand and it is a really really really easy task.
just make sure you'r spark plugs remain in the holes to prevent any small nuts from dropping into the motor. Once everything is bolted back up then remove spark plug #2 to clean up the oil on the plug.
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