oem 94 civic dx hatch...
Just put in a new clutch kit and it's all together. But When I pushed the clutch pedal down it stayed there. No back force on it at all. The clutch release feels like it's in line with the clutch fork. And the clutch release doen't go in or out when I push/pull on the clutch pedal. The fluid is full and ready to be bleed, but nothing is happening. What is wrong now? It was working before I changed the clutch. Any help, please.

 

With a hose attached to the bleeder screw crack it open and start pumping (by hand). Pump until the resoiviour (sp?) goes empty. Close the bleeder screw then fill it up. Open the screw and pump again. Do this 3 times and you should be air free.

Edit: not empty empty but low.


Modified by Luserkid at 5:38 PM 9/6/2006

 

loosen the slave cylinder bleeder, you'll need a 8 mm wrench i think, maybe 10, i forgot which one it was. and then have someone pump the clutch pedal up 'n down till it starts squirting out of the bleeder, same way you would bleed your brakes. you'll have to add more brake fluid to the master cylinder as you pump it, but i'll get pressure soon, and it'll work fine after you get all the air pockets out of the hard line.

 

OK, do not pump it with the bleeder valve while its open. You must pump the clutch 15-20 times, then crack open the bleeder valve with an 8mm wrench while the clutch pedal is to the floor.. Have the person pumping the pedal hold the pedal down until you have re-tightened the bleeder valve. Than once the bleeder valve is tightened, re-pump the pedal 20-25 times.

Repeat until pedal is stiff.

if you pump the pedal while the valve is open air will enter defeating the purpose of bleeding in the first place.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mitsuman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK, do not pump it with the bleeder valve while its open. You must pump the clutch 15-20 times, then crack open the bleeder valve with an 8mm wrench while the clutch pedal is to the floor.. Have the person pumping the pedal hold the pedal down until you have re-tightened the bleeder valve. Than once the bleeder valve is tightened, re-pump the pedal 20-25 times.

Repeat until pedal is stiff.

if you pump the pedal while the valve is open air will enter defeating the purpose of bleeding in the first place. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats for brakes. This is a clutch system. A little different, you pump it with the bleeder open and a hose attached to it so no air goes back in. If you run without a hose you will get air.

To the original poster. you got both ways of doing this, do whichever you want. If one doesnt work do it the other way. I use my way all the time, and im sure he uses his all the time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With a hose attached to the bleeder screw crack it open and start pumping (by hand). Pump until the resoiviour (sp?) goes empty. Close the bleeder screw then fill it up. Open the screw and pump again. Do this 3 times and you should be air free. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't run it completely empty, you might get more air in it. And there is a spell check you moron.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thats for brakes. This is a clutch system. A little different, you pump it with the bleeder open and a hose attached to it so no air goes back in. If you run without a hose you will get air.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

how does that make sense? if theres a hose attached the air will not travel back up through the hose?

but ya the way i described earlier is the way i have ALWAYS done it. so eh

 

Because when you close the screw it acts as a vacuum and it doesnt allow fluid to move until it opens again. Kind of like a straw, you get some soda in it and just put your tounge on the top and hold it over, no soda falls, same ****.

 

Nice..... So tomorrow I will get a hose and a bottle. Put some fluid in the bottle and put the hose into it from the bleeder vavle. Make sure to keep the resevoir full w/ fluid also. Then pump the clutch. My question is why is the clutch so limp. Nothing from the pedal at all. Reseviors were full earlier when I was pumping it and still nothing. BTW when I bleed it does it need to be from the clutch release on the front of the trans axle?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by carseatcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice..... So tomorrow I will get a hose and a bottle. Put some fluid in the bottle and put the hose into it from the bleeder vavle. Make sure to keep the resevoir full w/ fluid also. Then pump the clutch. My question is why is the clutch so limp. Nothing from the pedal at all. Reseviors were full earlier when I was pumping it and still nothing. BTW when I bleed it does it need to be from the clutch release on the front of the trans axle?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It is possible that your Slave cylinder (clutch release as you said) or Master Cylinder have gone bad.

But think simple first, bleed it and when you know for sure there is no air in the system, check to make sure all of the connections on the hard and soft lines are tight. Then start going bigger/more expensive stuff. This idea applies to all problems that you don't know the exact culprit.

 

Pull back the rubber boot and see if there is any action on the release fork as it's easy to not seat the slave cly ball in the socket. It's also easy to accidently knock loose the fork in the bellhousing while you install it.

If that all looks good and you still have no luck bleeding it I have a spare slave cly you can try out, just let me know

 

cool matt, I might need it. I've checked all of that, but I'll double check it then get back to you. thanks

 

Never mind, got it bleed works good now. Thanks for the help guys