breaking loose crank shaft pulley
im trying to break my crank shaft pully loose... weve tried 2 impact guns... 3 foot breaker bar and every method we know..... wont budge... any suggestions, ideas or comments????
they make little block off things that fit onto the teeth on the flywheel to hold it in place for breaking stuff free. Other than that, I have no idea.
I tried to do my timing belt and water pump when I got my engine, but never got the new ones in because i couldn't break the bastard loose. Not worth the constant worrying I go thru day to day. It's been almost 2 years and no problems tho, so its not all that bad. I'll just have to do it some day
I tried to do my timing belt and water pump when I got my engine, but never got the new ones in because i couldn't break the bastard loose. Not worth the constant worrying I go thru day to day. It's been almost 2 years and no problems tho, so its not all that bad. I'll just have to do it some day
Same problem as you. I have three cars. On two cars, the crank pulley bolt comes off easy as cake. On the third car, it doesn't budge. My friend told me pour air tool oil into the impact until it farts out oil. Sounds better, but still no luck. It destroyed my socket. This is the same impact gun that has never ever failed me. The air compressor is a 115 psi. Maybe I'll try renting a bigger air compressor. Good luck to you.
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Something my dad has always told me was to, hammer on the nut as hard to make it loose. It has always worked for me, even when the impact was being a little bitch.
I love my dad
I love my dad
find someone witha 3/4 impact gun, that'll break it loose, and if not, last resort, you can heat the bolt with a torch, itl its pretty hot, wait a second, the hit it with the air gun, works well, but only as a last resort, if done wrong, can cause damage
just buy the tool that holds the teeth for the pully, itz only like 50-60 buckz and will save you a ton of time and tools, i broke 2 socket wrenches, a socket, 2 extensions, and my impact gun only goes in reverse now. i finally bought the right tool for the job, and i came off in 2 seconds, just make sure you have a lot of leverage, i have a 5 foot piece of 1 1/4 in. pipe that i used. anything over 4ft. should work.
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i also tried everything in the book and finally just bought this one. within minutes the nut was off. just make sure you got 2 strong breaker bars, one to loosen the nut, the other to hold the tool in place. best 25 bucks youll ever spend!
i also tried everything in the book and finally just bought this one. within minutes the nut was off. just make sure you got 2 strong breaker bars, one to loosen the nut, the other to hold the tool in place. best 25 bucks youll ever spend!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 31flavorscivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they make little block off things that fit onto the teeth on the flywheel to hold it in place for breaking stuff free. Other than that, I have no idea.
I tried to do my timing belt and water pump when I got my engine, but never got the new ones in because i couldn't break the bastard loose. Not worth the constant worrying I go thru day to day. It's been almost 2 years and no problems tho, so its not all that bad. I'll just have to do it some day</TD></TR></TABLE>
if its been 2yrs you need the belt changed now
I tried to do my timing belt and water pump when I got my engine, but never got the new ones in because i couldn't break the bastard loose. Not worth the constant worrying I go thru day to day. It's been almost 2 years and no problems tho, so its not all that bad. I'll just have to do it some day</TD></TR></TABLE>
if its been 2yrs you need the belt changed now
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaNnYsEvEn »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.amazon.com/exec/obi...lance
i also tried everything in the book and finally just bought this one. within minutes the nut was off. just make sure you got 2 strong breaker bars, one to loosen the nut, the other to hold the tool in place. best 25 bucks youll ever spend!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't believe that will work on the D series or atleast the older ones, my old a6 had a different crank pulley than that...I used 2 bolts through the holes in the pulley with a metal bar betweene then and jammed it up agains the fram or even the ground and used a 10ft poll and cranked it loose in a few seconds...
i also tried everything in the book and finally just bought this one. within minutes the nut was off. just make sure you got 2 strong breaker bars, one to loosen the nut, the other to hold the tool in place. best 25 bucks youll ever spend!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't believe that will work on the D series or atleast the older ones, my old a6 had a different crank pulley than that...I used 2 bolts through the holes in the pulley with a metal bar betweene then and jammed it up agains the fram or even the ground and used a 10ft poll and cranked it loose in a few seconds...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Loserkidwac »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't believe that will work on the D series or atleast the older ones, my old a6 had a different crank pulley than that...I used 2 bolts through the holes in the pulley with a metal bar betweene then and jammed it up agains the fram or even the ground and used a 10ft poll and cranked it loose in a few seconds...</TD></TR></TABLE>
it worked on my dohc zc
it worked on my dohc zc
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaNnYsEvEn »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
it worked on my dohc zc</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea my a6 looked like this one dosen't have the nice hex shape...i wish it did because I've used the tool you linked on a newer LS teg and it made things 10x easier
it worked on my dohc zc</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea my a6 looked like this one dosen't have the nice hex shape...i wish it did because I've used the tool you linked on a newer LS teg and it made things 10x easier
i broke a few sockets at my house with 10ft breaker bars and 2 different impact guns so i took my engine to my friends alignment shop..it broke his gun in three tries (the only works in reverse syndrome) so i finally went to my honda dealership and they broke it with a 1000 ft/lb gun and a 3000 gallon tank (they said it was that big IDK) at least the dealership shop manager was cool and didnt charge me a dime.
1st make sure that the impact is not turned down
the way i got mine off was beat the f*** out of the nut with a mallet and turn the impact all the way up
if that doesn't work then try saline torching it until the bolt is red hot and then socket it
mapp and propane will work but will take longer
the way i got mine off was beat the f*** out of the nut with a mallet and turn the impact all the way up
if that doesn't work then try saline torching it until the bolt is red hot and then socket it
mapp and propane will work but will take longer
you guys gotta be careful beating on your crank pulley bolts and going to crazy with impacts on em, talk about bearing beat down, just a heads up. I always put just a dap of anti seize on my bolt, and it whizzes right out with my 1/2" IR Titanium
get a realy thick breaker bar, put the socket on the nut, and put the handle in between suspension somwhere, take your ECU fuse out and crank the car you might also wanna use a hollow pipe to keep the socket pushed on the nut
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From: I told you to wait in the truck in Texas, United States
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daidilus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a realy thick breaker bar, put the socket on the nut, and put the handle in between suspension somwhere, take your ECU fuse out and crank the car you might also wanna use a hollow pipe to keep the socket pushed on the nut</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hondas run counter-clockwise...
So if you do that you will be tightening the bolt..
Hondas run counter-clockwise...
So if you do that you will be tightening the bolt..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daidilus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a realy thick breaker bar, put the socket on the nut, and put the handle in between suspension somwhere, take your ECU fuse out and crank the car you might also wanna use a hollow pipe to keep the socket pushed on the nut</TD></TR></TABLE>
Haha... don't do this!!!
I can usually crack it with a long *** breaker bar. I stick a prybar up into the flywheel so it can't rotate and go to town with the breaker bar, no need for one of those special tools.
Haha... don't do this!!!
I can usually crack it with a long *** breaker bar. I stick a prybar up into the flywheel so it can't rotate and go to town with the breaker bar, no need for one of those special tools.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by whiteef8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you guys gotta be careful beating on your crank pulley bolts and going to crazy with impacts on em, talk about bearing beat down, just a heads up. I always put just a dap of anti seize on my bolt, and it whizzes right out with my 1/2" IR Titanium
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats what i have. it works like a dream. when i took my crank pulley off my crx i had the gun going for a good 30 seconds before it decided to come off. good thing i have a 100 gallon tank
</TD></TR></TABLE>thats what i have. it works like a dream. when i took my crank pulley off my crx i had the gun going for a good 30 seconds before it decided to come off. good thing i have a 100 gallon tank
i had the same problem i tried for like three days to get mine off so what i done was wedge a piece of metal on the frame and the pullly and just have to get BUCK with it come on be a man and bust that bolt loose also try taking the starter off and grabbing the flywheel then try and bust the bolt loose good luck man
oh yeah am breaker bar or big *** pipe works wonders
oh yeah am breaker bar or big *** pipe works wonders
just take a shot down to the nearest dealer, and ask a tech just to bust it loose then put it back on not as tight. I'm sure they'd gear you up; it only takes a second. We've done bigger stuff than that for nothing at the dealer I work at.
I love my 1/2" and 3/8" IR TNT guns
I love my 1/2" and 3/8" IR TNT guns
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by em Dot »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats what i have. it works like a dream. when i took my crank pulley off my crx i had the gun going for a good 30 seconds before it decided to come off. good thing i have a 100 gallon tank </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by model x »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I love my 1/2" and 3/8" IR TNT guns
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea those things seem to do the trick 99% of the time, i cant believe you were holdin your 1/2" on there for 30 seconds!?!?! Sucker musta been tight! Anyways, does anyone actually have evidence/advice towards my previous statement?? Impacts being harsh on rod and main bearings, im always so careful, i hate the idea of a rebuild because of a 1 bolt mistake
UP FOR ADVICE/EXPERIENCE
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by model x »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I love my 1/2" and 3/8" IR TNT guns
</TD></TR></TABLE>yea those things seem to do the trick 99% of the time, i cant believe you were holdin your 1/2" on there for 30 seconds!?!?! Sucker musta been tight! Anyways, does anyone actually have evidence/advice towards my previous statement?? Impacts being harsh on rod and main bearings, im always so careful, i hate the idea of a rebuild because of a 1 bolt mistake
UP FOR ADVICE/EXPERIENCE
go to pep boys or Canadian tire or whatever auto parts stores are where you're located and buy yourself crank holding tool made by a company called power built. The crank pulley holder will fit the D-series motors with the Non-hex crank holes. The tool is 25 bucks CDN (US will for sure be cheaper) and put in on your crank, get a good quality 17mm socket with an extension for it that will let your breaker bar handle clear your driver's side fender, get a jackstand that will support the extension bar from the crank pulley to your breaker bar, get a long pipe that is about 6 feet long to slip over you breaker bar for more leverage, a friend to help you hold the socket extension against the bolt and crank it loose.
Shouldn't take you more than 5 minutes to setup and remove.
the key is to get everything stable and lot of leverage....
it does seem to help when you use a generous amount of penetrating oil on the bolt too.
I would advise against using the flywheel as your crank stopper/holder since you run the risk of breaking teeth off.
Shouldn't take you more than 5 minutes to setup and remove.
the key is to get everything stable and lot of leverage....
it does seem to help when you use a generous amount of penetrating oil on the bolt too.
I would advise against using the flywheel as your crank stopper/holder since you run the risk of breaking teeth off.
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