I was driving the otherday and my oil light came on (it is time for an oil change anyway), so I went to the store and got a couple of courts of oil. as I was poring it in I noticed the front and passanger side of my block are covered in crap! I can't even read the engine code thru the sludge.

could this be my headgasket failing? it has felt a little slugish lately.

as well, every few months my resorive tank for my coolant will be empty.

P.S. I am not seeing any white smoke.

 

sludge on the pass. side of block sounds like leaky cam seal.....

did you see anything odd about the oil when you changed it?

 

What you need to do, is buy some GUNK engine cleaner and Clean your engine, then when the engin is clean and when you run it you will see where the clean oil leak is coming from, if its between the block and head you have a leaking gasket, But to find out if its Blown you need to do a compression Check

 

the oil light comes on when you lost the oil press, and not as a time to replce oil light.
a leak down test would tell you if the head gasket is fine

 

do a leakdown test and if u burning oil alot it might be ur rings, but a leakdown test will let u know whats wrong with ur engine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXnorway &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the oil light comes on when you lost the oil press, and not as a time to replce oil light.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I understand this. I was just giving a time line as to that I didn't just change my oil and this happened. it's been a while.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cmdr430 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sludge on the pass. side of block sounds like leaky cam seal.....

did you see anything odd about the oil when you changed it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nothing strange in the oil or in the coolant.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXnorway &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the oil light comes on when you lost the oil press, and not as a time to replce oil light.
a leak down test would tell you if the head gasket is fine</TD></TR></TABLE>

how do i preform a leakdown test?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tha_liks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What you need to do, is buy some GUNK engine cleaner and Clean your engine, then when the engin is clean and when you run it you will see where the clean oil leak is coming from, if its between the block and head you have a leaking gasket, But to find out if its Blown you need to do a compression Check</TD></TR></TABLE>

can I use some break cleaner insted? I already have this in my tool box. and is there anywhere I need to be carefull about spraying it.

 

look at the V-tec Cylenoid gasket
thats what it was one mine

 

Looks like you have more than one issue.

Coolant reservoir empty - Check all the hoses for leaks. If there's no leak, the HG might be blown. The damage might be very small that you wouldn't notice the white smoke.

Oil in engine bay. As mentioned, it depends on where in the engine bay the sludge is. You said it's the front and passenger side, so it is likely that it's the cam seal or even the dip stick tube or valve cover gasket.

 

VTEC solenoid is a known source for leaking oil on that side of the engine as well as cam seal.

go to summit and buy a air compressor and leakdown tester. it fills the cylinder with air and you must check if the air is leaking out the dip stick, exhuast, oilcap etc

 

thanks guys. I plan to clean the stuff off and keep a closer eye on the problem. thanks. again, any problems with using brake cleaner on the block?

P.S. if I have to take the head to a machine shop to have it milled. how should I prep it from them? I mean (stupid question) can I leave everything in there or do I need to do any further dissasibling? also does the block have to be milled to? and what should I expect to pay for the head to be milled?


Modified by Nataku at 10:08 PM 9/1/2006

 

There should be no reason to Mill your head unless your trying to raise the compression. Other than that it would be milled if you head is really WARPED.
Usually they just resurface the bottom to make it clean and staight.
When you take it to a machine shop, you basically have to take it to them with
out the distributor or intake manifold, keep the camshafts and hold in so that they
can do a valve adjustment while its there too.
I just did my head a month ago and they milled it .002 if im correct and cleaned the ports and did a valve adjustment for about $130
Seemed reasonable to me.

 

I wouldn't use brake cleaner. that stuff eats threw rubber really easy. actually it eats threw anything thats not metal. don't use it on your engine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tha_liks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There should be no reason to Mill your head unless your trying to raise the compression. Other than that it would be milled if you head is really WARPED.
Usually they just resurface the bottom to make it clean and staight.
When you take it to a machine shop, you basically have to take it to them with
out the distributor or intake manifold, keep the camshafts and hold in so that they
can do a valve adjustment while its there too.
I just did my head a month ago and they milled it .002 if im correct and cleaned the ports and did a valve adjustment for about $130
Seemed reasonable to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how long did it take them? this is my only car so I have to be somewhat quick about this. I can barrow my fiance's car but not forever.

 

I dropped it off in the morning when the shop opend 8:00 am and went fishing, head was done same day at 3:00.
So it can be done in a few hours.

 

great thanks!