Me and my friend were working on my car (89 civic si) and we had to replace the rear lines right off the wheel cylinder to the ss lines and we also replaced the wheel cylinders. so we get that all set up...everything's tight as a witches tit. we start bleeding the brakes and the fronts work, but the backs wont do a thing. when pumping the brakes there is no movement in the shoes. is there some way to reset the rear brakes? to get it so that they start working again? please someone help me!

 

maybe cuz theres too much air. how long did u pump them?

 

might be a stupid question but do you have enough liquid on the lines?

 

yes theres plenty of fluid in the lines, got all the air out. even when we were pumping it in between bleeding it didnt feel like it was getting any harder to pump. any ideas?

 

someone help me please

 

ttt

 

Did you have the e-brake up?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridmiklo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you have the e-brake up?</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2?

 

no its down

 

sometimes the rears take forever to bleed. After doing my ss line i went around my car 8 before i felt the brakes where 100% Just keep working around the car until its good. Any make sure your ebrake isnt locked or something (on hte caliper)

 

well what i was thinking of this morning while looking at it was that we reinstalled the wheel cylinder and hooked the shoes back up to it really without any fluid in there...so i think by taking off the pressure that the shoes provide and bleeding it that way and then reinstalling the shoes onto the wheel cylinder it should work. that would make sense to me, agree or disagree

 

Something like a "Mighty-Vac" would make it alot easier...
http://www.cyclegear.com/image...5.jpg
You might be able to rent one at Autozone or something...

 

ok i'm really getting frustrated with these brakes...my car has been in the garage now for about a month.
this is what is going on with it.
i have someone pump the brakes and i pull outwards on the shoes and the pressure starts to build up and it gets pretty strong then they push all hte way in and it locks up but once they release and push all the way back in nothing moves!!!!!!!!!
I dont know what is wrong. there are no leaks, no air in the lines, i've bled the damn thing for about the 30th time now.
is there some way to set it back to normal so that it just works????

 

someone help me or i swear im gonna put an axe through the roof of the car

 

sorry, no advice on bleeding drums. just seems like your problem is the wheel cylinders arent springing back. not sure what else to do. my guess was the ebrake too.

but please dont you or anyone else think about using a mighty vac to bleed their brakes. its absolutely horrible.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88DXCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Something like a "Mighty-Vac" would make it alot easier...
http://www.cyclegear.com/image...5.jpg
You might be able to rent one at Autozone or something... </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

To each their own..

No,the Mighty-Vac isn't the best quality tool available for the job..
By itself,it is a piece of crap but it is enough to produce a vacuum
and when working with "dry" brake lines every little bit helps..

{There are some really cheesy ones made of plastic but the one I have is aluminum..}

When used in conjunction with a "one-man brake bleeder"
it can work very well..
Especially on motorcycle brakes that don't develop
much pressure anyways...

Apply some vacuum to the reservoir
and then bleed it like you normally would with a helper pumping
the brake pedal..The extra vacuum does help to pull the fluid through.

 

suum cuique indeed.

the problem with the vacuum pump is that by SUCKING the fluid, or providing negative pressure on the outside end, draws more air INTO the caliper through the threads of the bleeder screw/valve. youll never know when youve really bled the brakes properly, and will continually be sucking air into the caliper.

that and it causes really bad hand blisters...

 

well, everytime i have bled drums, i never had anything like that happen. are the springs installed correctly? also, sense its been in the garage for so long, why not convert to rear disc? i converted my 90dx, and all u need is the rear assembly from a 90-94 integra. i used a 94. you dont have to change out the prop vale, master cylinder and booster. put pedal will travel almost to the floor. and you need the lines from same year integra that the assembly was from. when i did my swap, it took forever to bleed. in was going in the right order according the the book, and it took me like an hour. flushed the lines though hehe. as for the drums binding up.. dont know.. something is clogged or stuck.

 

How did you determine they arnt working? Did you put the drum on and spin it freely and hit the brakes with nothing? Or did you hit the brake without the drum on. If you hit the brake without the drum on you can blow out the wheel cylinder, I've seen it done before. If you are just spining the drum freely and feel no friction when the brake is applied, then adjust it up higher, my only other thought is just leave the bleeders open for a day and try and see if it will gravity bleed. If none of that helps, check the line to the rear and the entrance from the master cylinder, if you had dirty brake fluid it could have cloged the system.